turn the knob up to 15X11
#24
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15X10 with an et of ~ 20 is pretty much the standard for 275/35/15 Hoosiers. If you are running 275's any narrower track than that you are making retarded compromises to bump travel or alignment settings because the front tire will take out the inner fender area with excessive interference. ET of 20 rubs a tolerable amount and it is pretty close to the same amount of rub within a couple mm weather it is mounted on an 8, 9, 10, or an 11 because the shoulder position doesn’t change very much just the sidewall shape. My track width with the 11's is the same as about any top national level CSP car the tire bead is just 1/2” further out than the current convention. I think the improvement in tire kinematics is way more important than worrying about a half inch of width. And In reality it’s Probably less than 2mm difference if you measure where it will clip the base of a cone.
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FWIW there is also like zero room to run less offset than this. the tire just kisses the firewall when the wheels are cut sort of sharp as it is. any further outboard and they will crash hard into the firewall. there is really no offset that works right with 275's other than 20mm plus or minus a millimeter or so.
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My tires do rub a little you can see the black mark in the wheel well up next to the shock top in the second to last pic. It is not bad enough to destroy the tire. If I run 949 10” wheels without a 5mm spacer it would just shred the tire in a hard corner with the outside front loaded. I have V8R arms running ~3.8 deg negative camber up front.
I should also point out in that pic the spring is off the seat. The AST 949 racing XIDA double adjustables with 900lb springs even with a helper have too much stroke for that spring rate to keep them seated with both front wheels in full droop. Not Ideal but not really a problem ether.
Another thing to point out is with those shock tops that come with the 949 doubles is that the upper spring seat is attached to the shock shaft so the upper spring seat stays aligned with the shock at all times. This eliminates the spring from having to take up misalignments in angle between the shock and the flat surface of the chassis in the shock top area as the suspension articulates or if you lean the shocks over more than stock as I did by slotting the holes in the top hat.
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I see it now.
I too have the problem with the springs not staying seated, BUT my sway bar binds before then so its not a big deal unless I dukes of hazzard the car. But that is why you see pictures of my car almost dangling the front wheel. My new control arms should mount the sway bar tab lower so I can make my end links longer which should help with the bind a little.
I'm still running the NB mounts, I had to cut the **** out of them to make the tires not rub on them. I never thought to oval out the mount holes and tip them in, I thought that allowance was only for strut cars.
I too have the problem with the springs not staying seated, BUT my sway bar binds before then so its not a big deal unless I dukes of hazzard the car. But that is why you see pictures of my car almost dangling the front wheel. My new control arms should mount the sway bar tab lower so I can make my end links longer which should help with the bind a little.
I'm still running the NB mounts, I had to cut the **** out of them to make the tires not rub on them. I never thought to oval out the mount holes and tip them in, I thought that allowance was only for strut cars.
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I see it now.
I too have the problem with the springs not staying seated, BUT my sway bar binds before then so its not a big deal unless I dukes of hazzard the car. But that is why you see pictures of my car almost dangling the front wheel. My new control arms should mount the sway bar tab lower so I can make my end links longer which should help with the bind a little.
I'm still running the NB mounts, I had to cut the **** out of them to make the tires not rub on them. I never thought to oval out the mount holes and tip them in, I thought that allowance was only for strut cars.
I too have the problem with the springs not staying seated, BUT my sway bar binds before then so its not a big deal unless I dukes of hazzard the car. But that is why you see pictures of my car almost dangling the front wheel. My new control arms should mount the sway bar tab lower so I can make my end links longer which should help with the bind a little.
I'm still running the NB mounts, I had to cut the **** out of them to make the tires not rub on them. I never thought to oval out the mount holes and tip them in, I thought that allowance was only for strut cars.
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Who do you know that you got that discount? When quoting 15x10s from keisler I was getting prices in the upper $1700s for a set + shipping, and you got an even less common barrel size for less.
I wish spinwerks were still around, $1200 for a set of 4 custom, 13lb 15x10s was tit.
I wish spinwerks were still around, $1200 for a set of 4 custom, 13lb 15x10s was tit.