High power wheel and tire set up
#21
15x10 with 245/40/15 with flares is going to be the easiest solution. You may not know which shop I run, but we know a bit about this.
NA/NB tolerate additional tire width pretty well but don't handle additional height well. So you'll want to stick with a combo that's 23" or so. Even a little latter causes major fitment headaches.
Lots of good choices in 245/40/15 and more coming.
The 15x10 6UL wheel pictured is no longer in production but there at least two other companies that replicated the fitment.
NA/NB tolerate additional tire width pretty well but don't handle additional height well. So you'll want to stick with a combo that's 23" or so. Even a little latter causes major fitment headaches.
Lots of good choices in 245/40/15 and more coming.
The 15x10 6UL wheel pictured is no longer in production but there at least two other companies that replicated the fitment.
what is the cost/benefit of moving from a 15x9 to a 15x10 for 245’s? If a 9 and 9.5” wheel will fit without a flare, what does that extra 1/2” give me that makes the flare worth it?
again, your input is appreciated. Thanks.
#22
If you're really willing to anything, you can make 285/30/18 fit. But I suspect this level of fender modification is beyond what you mean.
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...8/#post1405078
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...8/#post1405078
I wish this was documented in a little more detail. Would have loved to see more pics of how it was done. Amazing!
That said, I’m curious what you lose going to that tall of a tire. Everyone I talk to has warned me that the car is really sensitive to tall wheels and the geometry changes that accompany them.
edit: I found more pics in the thread…. Holy crap…. Awesome.
#24
And after looking through that thread of the tubbed NB on 17’s: are all those suspension arms going to be one-off to make that all work? I’d assume there would be a ton of geometry correction to get back down to a decent ride height…
#27
Hey guys,
I’ve been reading, searching, and lurking for a while. Finding myself in need of advice:
I’m doing a LS3 swap in a 94 NA. It’ll end up making around 370hp/tq at the wheels. Like most high power NA Miata builds, I’m having trouble picking a wheel and tire set up. I am willing to roll, pull, flare, and wide body. Whatever it takes to make it work. Handling and balance are a high priority. The car will be 85% street driven, doing a few track days per year. At the moment, I’m considering two options:
1. 15x9’s with 245/45’s all around. Tire selection is very small with 15’s at 225 or 245, and I’d be restricted to 200tw tires. My concerns here are that 200tw tires will not be a great street option. I’m considering noise, hydroplane resistance, cold temp performance, the tire kicking up every rock and pebble on the road, etc. Also, I’m not sure what a 245 on a 9” wheel will give me that a 225 on an 8” will not…
2. 16x8 with 245/45’s all around. These will be heavier and very tall, as tall of a tire that’ll fit really. But tire options range from 200tw to 300tw, many of which would make a decent street tire. I can get wheels that weigh 13lbs, so it won’t be a horrible weight penalty. My main concern here are the effects on ride quality and handling.
This is an important decision as the wheels and tires will dictate the length of shock and spring rates I pick. All advice is appreciated.
thanks!
I’ve been reading, searching, and lurking for a while. Finding myself in need of advice:
I’m doing a LS3 swap in a 94 NA. It’ll end up making around 370hp/tq at the wheels. Like most high power NA Miata builds, I’m having trouble picking a wheel and tire set up. I am willing to roll, pull, flare, and wide body. Whatever it takes to make it work. Handling and balance are a high priority. The car will be 85% street driven, doing a few track days per year. At the moment, I’m considering two options:
1. 15x9’s with 245/45’s all around. Tire selection is very small with 15’s at 225 or 245, and I’d be restricted to 200tw tires. My concerns here are that 200tw tires will not be a great street option. I’m considering noise, hydroplane resistance, cold temp performance, the tire kicking up every rock and pebble on the road, etc. Also, I’m not sure what a 245 on a 9” wheel will give me that a 225 on an 8” will not…
2. 16x8 with 245/45’s all around. These will be heavier and very tall, as tall of a tire that’ll fit really. But tire options range from 200tw to 300tw, many of which would make a decent street tire. I can get wheels that weigh 13lbs, so it won’t be a horrible weight penalty. My main concern here are the effects on ride quality and handling.
This is an important decision as the wheels and tires will dictate the length of shock and spring rates I pick. All advice is appreciated.
thanks!
There's nothing wrong with daily driving a 200TW tire as long as you don't see snow or ice. The "summer tire" name is a bit of a misnomer, they used to be called three-season tires because they're designed for wet and dry, but not snow. Generally speaking, for street tires, a summer tire is better in the wet than an all season tire. RE71R's and ECS sports (both summer tires) are still the kings of wet performance last I checked. Personally, I would look more into compound than width, and I'd be reluctant to try to feed that much power through anything greater than 200TW. I'm generally shopping for 205's for the TA miata and always get 225 RS4's for the enduro miata, so I can't comment on the wider selection, but I'd look into a well-rounded 200TW tire in the size that you want and call it a day. Checkout tirerack reviews, 99% of the time they're pretty spot-on to real-world performance, they just don't cover wear rate very well.
Last edited by duthehustle93; 09-20-2021 at 04:27 PM.
#29
In my 94 LS1 I ran the 15x9" 6ULs with a 245 RS4. It made right at 400whp. It was still a tire spinner until I went to a 3.27 rear gear and I put in a "too big" of a BTR stage 4 cam and CNC ported heads with large chambers. When I put the cam and larger chamber ported heads on, I was expecting to make 440-450whp, but to my major disappointment, it made the same whp (400) and lost 20lb ft of torque. But it moved peak power up 1,000 rpm. It made power all the way to 7200 where I let out on the Dyno and it was still holding power flat at 7200.......wasnt increasing, wasn't decreasing. Like I said, I was MAJORLY disappointed..........until I drove the car. My "mistakenly" chosen "too big" heads and cam transformed the car......in a good way. I was able to roll into the throttle and put 100% of the power down in first gear and shift at 7200. It was also no longer a teeth gritting experience to throw the car into a corner and roll on the throttle coming out.
With that cam and head setup, and with the power coming on later and longer, I found the 9" and 245 setup to plant the car really well. Honestly, it was the cam and head change that make the biggest difference in making more useable power on the 245 tire....
With that cam and head setup, and with the power coming on later and longer, I found the 9" and 245 setup to plant the car really well. Honestly, it was the cam and head change that make the biggest difference in making more useable power on the 245 tire....
#30
I'll give my opinion. I mostly lurk on here too as I don't drive a Miata, just run the same size wheel/tires. I have a Lotus Europa with 1100lbs on the rear axle, similar to a Miata, with a turbo 3.5, conservatively 430hp/330tq crank so similar to yours but less wtq but probably same power to weight. I run a 15x9 in the rear with a 245 BFG Rival S. Mine is a weekend street car that I autocross once a month in the on season. The Rivals are as quit as any tire I have ever had. Rock pickup is not bad though it does pick up some. I would never consider driving in the rain or with a dark cloud in sight so can't comment on hydroplaning. I've had other light, high HP/TQ cars and have run MT DR's RA1's, V700's, Nitto DR's, anything other than regular tires. It is no fun when you can't get the torque down. I've read every tire article and follow AX. If you only want a 225, the A052 is softer but doesn't come in a 245. The CR-1 comes in both and seems softer than the Rival S from reviews. From reviews, the Rival S take a few turns before optimum compared to the other two but I can't say, it works though and they are hard enough to use for track days, The A052 seems to be geared to AX as it comes up fast so not the best for track unless it TT. I'm happy with the Rival's but I will try the CR-1 next. Some like the RT-660 too and many Cam guys AX with them but they aren't a top tire for AX. If you are doing track days too the Rival S or RT-660 would be my pick.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gospeed81
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
34
10-31-2009 12:15 AM