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I’m getting some abnormal wear on the outer shoulder of my front loaded tire. This last test day I was running a clockwise circuit and this photo is from the front driver tire. These are 205 Nankang CR1s with 10 heat cycles on them (10-15 min sessions). I never noticed this type of wear on 225 NT01s so I’m thinking it’s my alignment. The picture of the fender well is rubbing from the old 225 NT01s (wore the hell out of the inside shoulder) so I raised the car a bit for this most recent alignment but its possible it still may be rubbing slightly.
Alignment shop says that’s all they can get for camber at this ride height. I told them I can’t go lower because of rubbing under load. I realize these springs rates are on the softer side but I’m stuck working with what I have for now. These Teins really can’t handle more spring than this per Emilio’s shock dyno years back. Unfortunately I don’t have tire temps to report back. I noticed this problem after the fact during post race inspection.
Original Tein Street Flex coilovers
12kg front springs (672lb)
7kg rear springs (392lb)
Dampers pretty much at full stiff (they’re tapped out)
Bauer ELBJ
205 Nank CR1s at 35psi hot
Ride Height
4.75” front
5” rear
Alignment
Front Camber -3*
Front Toe 0*
Front Caster 7*
Wheel width?
Need pyro data. Probably just needs more camber but could also be pressure too low or wheels to narrow. Without pyro data, it's anyone's guess (and everyone will).
Those tires are on 15x8 wheels. My next competition day is this Sunday. In morning practice im going to pull tire temps and report back. Im running the same track in the same direction so I rotated the pass side tires to the drivers side since the wear on that side was minimal and to help even out the wear overall.
Good day at the track today. I was able to take home first place by a margin of .528 seconds. I pulled some pyro data after a morning warm up session.
Clockwise track apparently. Need at least -2° additional front camber. The temp gradient on the RF tire are about what you want to see but that's on the inside of the track.
If you already have -3.5° or so, the then the car needs more spring and/or sway bar. At current, it's not even close. Those temps on the LF should be inverted.
If that's truly -3°, either your camber gauge is dead, you're measuring it wrong or you have way too much body roll. At 672/396 "700/400", you should have something like the RB 1.125 x .125 wall front bar and 9/16 (14mm) rear. 800/500 better rates for what you're doing but way past what Tein Flex can handle. We were a Tein dealer about a decade ago. Not close.
Clockwise track apparently. Need at least -2° additional front camber. The temp gradient on the RF tire are about what you want to see but that's on the inside of the track.
If you already have -3.5° or so, the then the car needs more spring and/or sway bar. At current, it's not even close. Those temps on the LF should be inverted.
If that's truly -3°, either your camber gauge is dead, you're measuring it wrong or you have way too much body roll. At 672/396 "700/400", you should have something like the RB 1.125 x .125 wall front bar and 9/16 (14mm) rear. 800/500 better rates for what you're doing but way past what Tein Flex can handle. We were a Tein dealer about a decade ago. Not close.
Yes clockwise direction today. I forgot to add that I do have the RB 1.125 front bar and supermiata endlinks but stock rear. Poly bushings all around as well. It does feel like the car still has some body roll. Alignment shop readout is below and verified by my Longacre gauge. Sounds like this Tein setup needs to come out.
Also, the amount of rubber clag building up on your inner fender indicates it's bottoming too much. It should just lightly polish the tub with 225 on 9" but pretty close to zero contact with your wheel entire combo. If you keep running those shocks adjust the bodies so they're a bit longer. 10-15mm I'd guess.
Also, the amount of rubber clag building up on your inner fender indicates it's bottoming too much. It should just lightly polish the tub with 225 on 9" but pretty close to zero contact with your wheel entire combo. If you keep running those shocks adjust the bodies so they're a bit longer. 10-15mm I'd guess.
Thanks for the help, much appreciated. I’m going to raise the front a bit more and go full stiff for the next event in 2 weeks. Im planning to swap out these coilovers soon and be done with them. They served their purpose well when I was slower but not so much anymore.