E-manage Ultimate Setup FAQ-beta
I'm starting this thread to collect setup and software tips for the E-manage Ultimate. I don't claim to be an expert but thought we could save some time for folks a few days behind us. Please correct me where I'm wrong and add your own tips to this thread.
Mike

Wiring
I used the Ultimate wiring harness and used the PRofec E-01 pressure sensor harness (cut in two) (purchased the EMU and harnesses from Mohd) to attach to a GM 2 bar MAP sensor and my TechEdge wideband O2 meter. I used the ECU wiring patch harness from www.autosportwiring.com to make installation easier and to avoid hacking up my ECU wiring harness. I highly recommend the auto sport patch harness. There are around 40 wires on the harness and I ended up using over 20 of them (it can support an 8 cylinder engine so there are extra control lines that you can use for other things if you like). The installation manual identifies the 20 or so connections on your ECU plugs and the types of signals that they connect to (e.g. RPM, air flow, etc). It also notes which wires on the Ultimate harness connect to the various signals. Some wires are tappers (just picking up a signal) and others are cutters (you intercept the signal and then output another signal). I went ahead and soldered everything and didn't use the connectors supplied with the kit. I pulled the cable through the dash before soldering to the patch harness. One final tip: plug the AutoSport harness into the miata harness first and push the whole cable bundle upwards before you try to plug the Autosport harness into the ECU. This approach puts the least strain on the wires (at least on the '99-'00 setup).

Mounting
I mounted the Ultimate behind the glove box. If you pull the glovebox (at least on the 2000 miata), there's a metal bar under the dash. I attached some padding to it and just set the e-Manage on the bar and ran the harness behind the dash and into the driver's side (over the steering column and to the ECU). The harness bundle really stablizes the e-manage so I didn't see a need to make any sort of bracket. You can zip tie it to the bar to be sure it doesn't move any.

Jumpers (2000 miata)
There are jumpers inside the box you have to set. The only one that I had to change was the one that choose the Mazda hotwire MAF configuration. The rest stayed at the factory defaults.

Setting software parameters
The software is pretty complex and has TONS of options and capabilities to run extra relays etc. You can get it very close by just choosing the default engine type and then following your way through the operations manual. The manual is a new translation from Japanese and isn't really all that great yet. Sometimes it isn't obvious what effects what but after playing with things, it starts to become more clear. One thing I changed was the IGN outputs. There are two ignition channels from our ECU. The Ultimate takes those as input and can then output to the coils. The "normal" config for my engine (BP-ZE) had set 2 channels into the Ultimate and then had it outputting 4 channels to the coils (which would be great if I had direct ignition or something more high performance than OEM). I set the config back to 2 channels of output and things seem to work well.

The Data Logger
Some really nice logging features: You can log internally to the Ultimate or directly on your laptop while running the data logger. You log up to 8 channels of data on the internal logger (for example I'm logging RPM, A/F, throttle position, airflow, injector duration and boost). When you bring up a log file, you can use your mouse to select a data point on the graph. The values at that point for all of the log events are shown on the table of log channels AND in many of the maps, the corresponding cell that was in effect at the data point is highlighted. This makes adjustments a lot easier because you know what will effect what.

Calibrating a Non-Standard Wideband O2 Meter
As long as your non-supported wideband O2 meter has a 0-5v linear output connection and you know the low and high voltages it outputs, it will work with the Ultimate. Make sure you've got the wideband output configured as an input in the Ultimate software (on the Front Panel tab, option 1 or 2). Choose A/F Meter but don't select one of the supported meters, just directly input the low and high values in the two input boxes to the right of the vendor dropdown. In my case, I looked up on the TechEdge site and found that my meter was calibrated to output a 9 - 19 A/F range over 0-5v. After entering the range, logging and maps suddenly started working well (I double checked the A/F ratios reported by the Ultimate and the ones reported by the TechEdge – they matched).

Scaling Maps
1) pick the map signal from the drop down
2) figure out the scale ranges that give the control you need
2) click the scale change button
3) change the first value in the column or row to the lowest value
4) change the last value in the row or column to the highest value
5) highlight the row or column and click on the Edit button and select the interpolate option to fill in the right scale values

Tuning and Boost volts
If you're using an unsupported pressure device (I'm using a 2 bar GM unit), I'd suggest that you set up your maps using Greddy Pressure Sensor(V) as the input for the vertical axis (make sure you've chosen Greddy Pressure Sensor on the parameter settings as well). Your device's output will be shown as a voltage rather than a bogus pressure reading. You'll need to figure out how 0 psi corresponds to the volts shown. Be sure that you don't try to configure map cells that will compete with your ECU when it is trying to make it's own adjustments to fuel (closed loop/open loop distinction).

Steps for setting up the output airflow map (MAF elimination):
1) First make the adjustments you want in the injector adjustment or airflow adjustment maps to get the air fuel ratios where you want them.
2) Once you've got the right A/F ratios, warm up the car to normal temperature and capture some log files while driving to get the desired airflow output volts, the RPMs, boost level and A/F level (for later reference). You'll especially want to collect the values around startup, idle, normal takeoff, cruise (like at 60 mph on a flat stretch of road) and a full-throtte/boost run to redline.
3) Go to the parameter settings and choose airflow output on the maps tab.
4) Choose the airflow output map, choose the pressure sensor you are using and scale both axis to your needs.
5) Open up the log file in the data logger and start clicking on the graph at the interesting spots (idle, smooth cruise, normal takeoff from a stop (when the RPM drops below idle speed but you are under load) and then the data points during your full throttle/boost to redline run.
6) You'll notice that each time you click on a different part of the log graph, a cell on the airflow output map will be highlighted. Read the airflow output volts that was logged from your MAF (in the table on the right side of the logger) and put a reasonable value in each cell that gets highlighted. Don't expect them to be exactly the same across your log (load changes) but they will be pretty close. Do this for the interesting parts of the log. Click on File and save your map in case you make a mistake later and overwrite your map values.
7) Now fill in the empty cells on the airflow output map with "reasonable" guesses. I went down the rows and used the interpolate cells option. Be careful not to change the cells you've hand entered. For example, highlight the top entered value and drag down across the empty cells in the column till you come to another entered value. Click on Edit and choose "Interpolate column." It will just add interpolated values between the two points you've chosen. Repeat for the whole map. There will be spots you have to guess because you didn't collect any data but they probably won't be in the critical areas.
8) Save the file again under another name.
9) Connect to your Ultimate and click on the Export Data button (far right) and wait for it to update.
10) Bring up the Airflow output map and the data logger. Start the logger and crank the ignition. Let the car warm up to full temp before you get too excited about logging/changing the map.
11) If you still have your MAF hooked up (good idea) you can drive a bit and log the differences between your Airflow output map and the MAF's actual values. They don't have to be exactly the same, but you'll be able to tell when you've guessed wrong on value in a cell (bogs because it is too lean or rich). The critical part is to make sure you got your boost run in correctly. Watch the log or A/F meter carefully (maybe someone else should do this while you drive) and be ready to come off of the gas if it didn't get entered right. Make corrections to your map as needed. After you've got a reasonable starting map, disconnect your MAF connector and try it bareback. Save the file under a different version name and I'd suggest saving another copy under the name nomaf-safe (so you can go back later if something goes wrong with your working map).
12) You can actually take your old MAF out of the car at this point. Let the car cool off and then adjust the cold startup characteristics using the water temp adjustment map (if needed).

 

Awesome, so it sounds like it'll work with either the 94+ MAF sensors or the 90-93 AFMs. Pretty cool stuff