Trackspeed Engineering 12-tooth crank trigger wheel
#42
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As far as the missing tooth (or lack of a missing tooth), this product started as a bit of a pet project for myself and a few other folks, all of us using AEMs. We wanted a wheel to mate up with OEM NB cam/crank sensors (I think the prototype car is using a modified NA CAS), and those of us who needed a missing tooth could just shave it off. (It's the same reason there are 12 teeth instead of 36 teeth - the AEM ignores everything past 12 teeth.)
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Are you certain the MSII/III actually uses all 36/60 teeth? There was some discussion on what ECUs like Pectel and Motec use while we were developing this and the consensus was that 12 teeth was more than adequate.
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I read on the MS forums about someone who managed to use electromotives crank trigger setup on there MS. I am not too sure which ms unit it was. Gives me hope because my TEC 2 units are getting old, and i am considering ms in the future for my miata and mx6.
Either way, -/+ >1 deg is a subsantially improvement, given the low tooth count. I too will be loking forward to a sensor kit as well.
Either way, -/+ >1 deg is a subsantially improvement, given the low tooth count. I too will be loking forward to a sensor kit as well.
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MSI:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_E...l.htm#twotrigs
MS-II is much easier to setup:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm
http://msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_E...l.htm#twotrigs
MS-II is much easier to setup:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm
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A VR sensor could also be used, but would require some (minor) wiring changes inside the ECU.
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seq. fuel and spark on my 1.6L is win. all I need is the trigger wheel and I'm a big boy (although the timing looks pretty solid as is). With a v3.57 MS3 w/ MS3X + DIYBOB, that **** would be retardedly easy to setup.
bonus, if you have extra oil/coolant temp/pressure gauges, you can easily bring that into the MS3 to log...
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Where do I connect this potential hall sensor? I think I found my NB hall sensor in my parent's garage, hopefully its not from the VW era. I need to read that write up a few more times too, it still sounds like another language to me.
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A hall sensor will have 3 wires, switched 12V, sensor ground, signal out. The first two should be pretty obvious. Since you have a 1.6 wiring harness, the signal out will need to go into the MegaSquirt on the pin labeled 2E in the diagram below:
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2/d/6001-8/9093_standalone_harness.jpg)
Alternatively, you could bring the hall sensor's output to the MSPNP's center connector and wire a jumper inside the box from the wire you used to MegaSquirt pin 24. Either way, make sure you unplug the stock CAS.
![](http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2/d/6001-8/9093_standalone_harness.jpg)
Alternatively, you could bring the hall sensor's output to the MSPNP's center connector and wire a jumper inside the box from the wire you used to MegaSquirt pin 24. Either way, make sure you unplug the stock CAS.
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Sorry to ***** out your thread but you don't seem to answer your PMs. I need some info about the COPs. Like when I can expect them. Will be finishing my car in September and it is really the only thing I'm waiting on.
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So as I see it my easiest option to get a proper crank wheel is to:
Questions:
- grid the TDC tooth off
- get a Hall sensor from Rock Auto for $35
- unplug Mr. CAS and throw it in the garbage
- place CAS "plug" back in the head
- wire Hall sensor to connector 2E (Mspnp9093)
- keep it on batch-fire
- adjust crank wheel setting (can someone please spoon feed this to me?)
- hit it with the timing light to set timing
- add ~3* spark advance back in to compensate for the cranks ~3* head-start/stretchy timing belt
Questions:
- can someone spoon feed me instructions on the crank settings for my mspnp9093?
- do you love me?