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I have an MSM (NB2), ELBJs and Xidas, hasn't seen track work, but is driven daily and probably have about 5k KM (~3k Miles). I'm only at -2* camber in front. I'll be checking my **** tomorrow. I did put in new control arms (with SADFab retrofix kit) at the same times as the ELBJs, not sure if they were NB2 arms though.
I'll report back.
I'm getting slight grazing on my Left side (hot side). The right side looks even less, but slight contact. Nothing like MiataMan00, but enough that I want to grind that gusset down as soon as I get a chance. The big difference between MiataMan00 and mine is that mine is only street driven, no hard sustained cornering on the bump stops, but the fact that this can still happen on the street is notable.
FWIW, I don't hold Supermiata responsible, a warning would be nice on the ELBJs but it is what it is. A big thanks to MiataMan00 for bringing it up, sucks about the damage though.
Any opinions on what the affect of adding a spacer to the top of the shock would be on this FUCA clearance would be? I'm sick of impacting the fender liner on bumps so I'm thinking of adding a spacer on top so I gain a little wheel well clearance, but if this moves the shock closer to the FUCA it's not a good solution.
So 6 sessions at Laguna later and the blue tape on the shock body is untouched. Looks like the damage to mine was either done during assembly or possibly during the drive to the alignment shop after first installing them.
Any opinions on what the affect of adding a spacer to the top of the shock would be on this FUCA clearance would be? I'm sick of impacting the fender liner on bumps so I'm thinking of adding a spacer on top so I gain a little wheel well clearance, but if this moves the shock closer to the FUCA it's not a good solution.
Nope. Other than a few Exocet owners deleting the require Exomotive shock spacers and having multiple problems (broken ball joints/tires rubbing chassis, messed up handling/ FUCA-shock interference). Deleting the Exomotive shock spacers allows the F & R suspension to compress about 2" further than it does on a Miata which as you might imagine, creates all sorts of problems.
but isn't why your "exocet fitment" wheels don't fit exocets. Guarantee you that.
I've been following this thread with some trepidation, since my MSM has all of the bogeys (NB2 A-arms, Xidas, ELBJs). It also inadvertently sports offset FUCA bushings (see this post in my I give up thread for why). Anyway, I breathed a sigh of relief, as there is no sign of rubbing at all. The car has seen many, many sessions at our local track plus the last Miatas @ MRLS event.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
This picture's out of focus, but there appears to be less clearance on the driver side. Car-to-car (or side-to-side) variation, I guess.
As another data point, nothing happened with just the offset bushings and much lower ride height (which was how I took delivery of the car).
When (re)building then suspension we cycle it to check clearances. I thought that was common sense when setting up suspension. Or at least when spending that much money on parts.
Sums it up. Again, common sense is pretty rare these days.
Current alignment results here. Front camber is -3.9 degrees (nothing less is possible with both ELBJ and offset bushings in play) and caster is about 6.6 degrees.
ELBJ, NB2 Sub Frame, 3.5 Camber, 6.5 Castor....No issues.
Sorry to hear about your luck there MiataMan but expecting the Supermiata to eat it is unreasonable. There are limits to the RD process. Expecting them to test all possible variables is not something I would expect either. It does seem this ELBJ potential problem are slowly coming to light. You just happen to be at the tip of the spear. Tough luck indeed but not that big of a deal. Have you looked into rebuilding them? The bodies should be available separately.
Why would you even run a ELBJ? Achieving 3 degrees negative camber is possible without them. Running such little camber with them creates a LOT of castor too. Clearly not the best combination of parts for your needs.
With regards to bump stops I respectfully disagree with your expectations. The Xidas as shipped serve as a solid foundation for any track Miata. Shimming (packers)or trimming bumpstops is to be expected during testing/setup. We found the fastest times to be when light tire rub happens but does not slow down the corner speed. With all the variables (tires, alignment, track, weight and driving style etc) it would be impossible to nail down a one size fits all solution. Bumpstops are just compressible progressive rate springs after all.
Last edited by k24madness; 07-21-2018 at 03:16 PM.
Ya'all wild. It's not that 949 needs to supply a solution that fits across every possible permutation of parts without any sort of tweaking. I don't think that's the discussion at all here.
Why would you even run a ELBJ? Achieving 3 degrees negative camber is possible without them.
I wasn't able to achieve camber targets without them.
Originally Posted by k24madness
The Xidas as shipped serve as a solid foundation for any track Miata.
agree
Originally Posted by k24madness
Shimming (packers)or trimming bumpstops is to be expected during testing/setup.
I did not expect to do this as a novice. There should have been a PSA on the site that says packing the bump stops may be required. If the tire wants to travel 1/2" through the fender I really cant help but imagine that it will slow the car down. This is speculation, I dont have data to back any of this up. I would also like to see data of shimmed bump stops (A/B test) being slower.
I really do like the xidas. That are VERY good for the money. Props to Emilio and the 949/Supermiata team for developing a great product. I understand that to get the 11/10ths out of a product will take some fine tuning to really hone in the performance. My only issue is the seemingly chosen non-discloser of potential issues. E seemed to have known about the shock body rubbing on the FUCA with min. alignment settings due to previous comments; but then said that it was not on his radar, so idk.
I wasn't able to achieve camber targets without them.
agree
I did not expect to do this as a novice. There should have been a PSA on the site that says packing the bump stops may be required. If the tire wants to travel 1/2" through the fender I really cant help but imagine that it will slow the car down. This is speculation, I dont have data to back any of this up. I would also like to see data of shimmed bump stops (A/B test) being slower.
Here lies the problem, your novice expectations need to be calibrated, not the product(s). You drive a heavy street car on a track (Laguna) that loads the suspension in a very unique way. Think those that drive VIR in a lightweight Miata will experience the same problems? How about those with heavy or lighter springs? As I said before your expectations are unreasonable. The solutions are simple and expected (by measure of a reasonable man with reasonable talents).
Originally Posted by MiataMan00
I really do like the xidas. That are VERY good for the money. Props to Emilio and the 949/Supermiata team for developing a great product. I understand that to get the 11/10ths out of a product will take some fine tuning to really hone in the performance. My only issue is the seemingly chosen non-discloser of potential issues. E seemed to have known about the shock body rubbing on the FUCA with min. alignment settings due to previous comments; but then said that it was not on his radar, so idk.
Again you appear to be at the tip of the spear of this problem. Information is slowly coming to light. With your shorter tires, lighter springs, heavy car and Laguna you created the perfect storm. Man the **** up and deal with it. Quit whining and playing the victim card. Track car **** happens.
Last edited by k24madness; 07-22-2018 at 05:20 PM.
Nb2 arms with gussets, 4 degrees camber, 4.5” pinchwelds, ELBJ’s sub 60 TW tyres, , stock ARBs, newish stock Mazda control arm bushes, no contact.
A careful look at mine, indicates there is not much room available for bushing deflection before contact would be possible. If all of the control arm bushes were just a little worn, coupled with other flex or imperfections in the subframe and body, it might be enough to get the shock body quite close to the upper arm. I know my car is not perfectly uniform in it’s dimensions.