wheel hub removal! cant get it off.
#1
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i removed the nut that holds it, tried using a jaw puller, banging with a hammer while pulling. it wont come off. what am i doing wrong? I removed the entire axle to take it to a shop and have it pressed off, is this the only way these come off? it looks like the teeth are pretty rusted so maybe thats why its not sliding off. shop is closed so i cant go until tomorrow
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#6
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Follow the torque spec in the manual when installing them. I've seen the wheel/hub/rotor hat come off a car when the doucheface who put it together hit it with a 1/2" impact until it was "TAF" and the axle actually broke on the track, just behind the nut. Wheel bearings on the other side were nonexistent by that point, too.
#11
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I made a fixture that consists of a 1" thick chunk of steel with four holes drilled through at the same location as the wheel studs.
I pop out the studs and put in longer bolts that reach through the plate. Put nuts on the bolts and jack the shaft in after hitting it with liquid wrench. Have never even needed all four bolts. They have all come out with two. When it is under tension, a sharp hit with a 2 lb hammer in the center of the plate helps to get it started.
I pop out the studs and put in longer bolts that reach through the plate. Put nuts on the bolts and jack the shaft in after hitting it with liquid wrench. Have never even needed all four bolts. They have all come out with two. When it is under tension, a sharp hit with a 2 lb hammer in the center of the plate helps to get it started.
#12
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I wonder how the OP faired on this?
One other thing to consider is the angle of the half-shaft if that is still attached. If you have the car up on stands and the hub is drooping down, you have a decent angle that will actually make it a tad more difficult to get those splines to slide out.
Screw anti-sieze. I just use plain old axle grease like you pack bearings with or CV joint lube. Works great.
One other thing to consider is the angle of the half-shaft if that is still attached. If you have the car up on stands and the hub is drooping down, you have a decent angle that will actually make it a tad more difficult to get those splines to slide out.
Screw anti-sieze. I just use plain old axle grease like you pack bearings with or CV joint lube. Works great.
#14
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i took off my axle and hub bearing housing to a local body shop. he pressed it out for me, only way this little bastard was gona come out. he first pressed out the axle then the hub, took 5 minutes after we setup the press. thanks for the responses guys. i cleaned the teeth really good with a wire brush and the hub was sliding easily on the axle before i reinstalled so all is good.
#15
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I have a hub that won't budge right now. I have the axel/spindle/hub in my vics and have broken 2 3-jaw pullers so far and muchroomed the hell out of the shaft already! What does it take to get it out? The other one came out with just a few jentile taps. I have soaked it with PB Blaster for 3 days now! No help either!
#19
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Broke another puller yesterday. I am going to have to make that plate and will try some heat as well. This car is driving me nuts right now. Every major bolt seems to be fused in place. I broke two impact sockets trying to get the second PPF bolt out of the diff. Finallt got a 3/4" drive set and then snapped the bolt in half and had to remove the whole diff with the PPF connected! And on top of that none of the exhaust bolts for the rear section would come off, even after soaking in PB blaster for a day, so I had to remove all this crap with the exhaust in the way! I will never buy a car that has been near the coast. It didn't look bad at all when I got it, but now that I start digging deeper it seems like all the exposed carbon steel fastners are stuck.