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I figured I would put this info out there to make the arms easier to use for those who choose to buy them, and provide some honest feedback for those considering buying.
TIP #1 (RUCA): the OEM pivot bolt does not fit at the outboard location, as the machined clevis is thicker than the OEM arm. Solution: M10 x 90mm bolt and matching M10 x 1.5 nut.
TIP #3 (RUCA): The arm hits the body much earlier than the stock arm, before the tire even makes contact. Use the not-roll-center "unibody clearance adjuster" to improve this radically. This will get you to full tire contact for most setups, and a little massaging of the contact zone on the body can make some breathing room.
TIP #4 (FUCA): The arm contacts the unibody before tire rub with 225/45R15. Contributing to this is the fact that the rod end is offset from the midplane of the arm, presumably to shift the bump/droop limits of the range of motion of the spherical bearing serving as the UBJ pivot.
TIP #5 (FUCA): Flipping the arm (logo down) radically increases body clearance. However, it moves the UBJ spherical bearing closer to bind at full bump relative to the stock orientation. A number of solutions can be used to correct for this, including shimming the height of the spherical bearing. However, I chose to substitute a true high-misalignment spacer (a modified version of a QA1 SN12-68) and an AN-7 bolt for the stock SHCS + counterbored, lower misalignment spacer.
Note in the first photo that the head of the SHCS had to be turned to fit the top spacer.
TIP #7 (FUCA): If you use the stock hardware, make sure the SHCS head sits fully in the counterbore of the spacers. Turning the bolt heads is a fun drinking activity but maybe not a good solution.