Tools needed for LCA swap????
#1
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I bent the hell outta my front passenger lower control arm on a curb an hour ago FML. Anyways I know of a few at the local junkyard I would just like to know what tools to bring socket sizes and what not and also any link to DIY thread for this would be awesome thanks for the help
#2
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I haven't looked/changed the LCA on the miata yet but if it's the same as my previous cars (nissans) you'll likely need:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets (to remove any misc panels, all bolts to the lower control arm, etc)
Need nose pliers (to remove cotter pin..if there is one that is on the castle nut)
Rubber mallet (to help you hammer on the ball joint)
Pry bar of some sort and/or screw driver
1) Remove wheel
2) Remove all bolts to the LCA
3) If there is a ball joint with castle nut, remove cotter pin first
4) loosen castle nut but leave it partially on (1/2 way)
5) Hammer with rubber mallet on top of castle nut (you can pry at the same time to help)
6) Remove any remaining bolts
DONE
Once again, I'm a noob when it comes to Miatas but if it's the same as my 240 the above instructions should be sufficient.
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets (to remove any misc panels, all bolts to the lower control arm, etc)
Need nose pliers (to remove cotter pin..if there is one that is on the castle nut)
Rubber mallet (to help you hammer on the ball joint)
Pry bar of some sort and/or screw driver
1) Remove wheel
2) Remove all bolts to the LCA
3) If there is a ball joint with castle nut, remove cotter pin first
4) loosen castle nut but leave it partially on (1/2 way)
5) Hammer with rubber mallet on top of castle nut (you can pry at the same time to help)
6) Remove any remaining bolts
DONE
Once again, I'm a noob when it comes to Miatas but if it's the same as my 240 the above instructions should be sufficient.
#3
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The balljoint on the lower arm is in a housing which can be unbolted from the arm without driving it out of the knuckle. Three bolts hold it in place, if I recall correctly. It's a slight contortion act to reach it this way, but it might be easier than separating the balljoint from the knuckle in the middle of a field.
But essentially, just bring your whole 3/8" drive socket set and a pair of vise-grips. There are a couple of different bolt sizes involved, but you just need to remove the two alignment bolts which hold the inner end of the arm to the subframe, the one bolt holding the coilover assembly to it, the three bolts holding the balljoint on, and the one bolt holding the swaybar end-link.
But essentially, just bring your whole 3/8" drive socket set and a pair of vise-grips. There are a couple of different bolt sizes involved, but you just need to remove the two alignment bolts which hold the inner end of the arm to the subframe, the one bolt holding the coilover assembly to it, the three bolts holding the balljoint on, and the one bolt holding the swaybar end-link.
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