Tire Shopping
#1
Tire Shopping
OK, originally I was thinking about a staggered set-up; 205s up front, 245s in back. However, as I researched this, I find it is far from a wise choice due to the Miata's suspension configuration. - Basically it is an excellent means of introducing understeer.
The problem is that when building my setup, some of the area in the fender wells has been "compromised". - I don't have room to run 225s in front without serious worries about chewing through a sidewall.
So, based on current rim size (16x7 Enkei RPF1s), I can either stick with the current tire size (205/45-16) or move to 215/40-16s. But there are few options to choose from at 215. Unless I have missed something, my options are:
- Toyo T1-R
- Yoko S-Drive
- BFG gForce T/A KDW
- BFG gForce Sport
- Maxxis MA-Z1 Victra
- Falken FK452
- Falken ZIEX ZE-512 -- dropped per Sav's eloquent advice...
(Out of the following brands researched: Toyo, Nitto, Kuhmo, Hankook, Falken, Sumitomo, Yoko, Pirelli, Dunlop, General, BFG, Bridgestone, Michelin, Maxxis, Goodyear, Avon and Fuzion.)
I am pushing the traction limits of the 205s at about 250whp and am considering "more boost".
Tire selected will be used for "normal" driving as well as high-speed runs (140mph+) and 45-60 minute road races.
Thoughts?
- L
The problem is that when building my setup, some of the area in the fender wells has been "compromised". - I don't have room to run 225s in front without serious worries about chewing through a sidewall.
So, based on current rim size (16x7 Enkei RPF1s), I can either stick with the current tire size (205/45-16) or move to 215/40-16s. But there are few options to choose from at 215. Unless I have missed something, my options are:
- Toyo T1-R
- Yoko S-Drive
- BFG gForce T/A KDW
- BFG gForce Sport
- Maxxis MA-Z1 Victra
- Falken FK452
- Falken ZIEX ZE-512 -- dropped per Sav's eloquent advice...
(Out of the following brands researched: Toyo, Nitto, Kuhmo, Hankook, Falken, Sumitomo, Yoko, Pirelli, Dunlop, General, BFG, Bridgestone, Michelin, Maxxis, Goodyear, Avon and Fuzion.)
I am pushing the traction limits of the 205s at about 250whp and am considering "more boost".
Tire selected will be used for "normal" driving as well as high-speed runs (140mph+) and 45-60 minute road races.
Thoughts?
- L
Last edited by l_bader; 04-28-2009 at 10:42 AM.
#3
There is no tire that exists that will be able to do all 3 of what you ask, at least competitively. If you are just doing local track sessions and just want to be out there then street tires will be fine. If you want to be fast and competitive then you'll have to go the way of a separate tires.
Tire rack shows way much options available in the 215/45 and the 205/45 variety.
205/
Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11
Hankook Ventus R-S2 (new RS3 might be available but sizes are slowly being released)
and more....
Tire rack shows way much options available in the 215/45 and the 205/45 variety.
205/
Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11
Hankook Ventus R-S2 (new RS3 might be available but sizes are slowly being released)
and more....
#6
Let me know how u like them. I'm thinking about picking up a set.
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#10
Not to be a dick, but let's recap:
-You are trying to hook up 250whp
-You do 45-60 minute road races and 140+mph blasts
Thus you need the widest, most badass street tire available. This puts you in the Kumho XS, RE-11, R1R, etc. category. Then you suggest a Falken 512 and reveal that you've screwed the pooch entirely by using 16" wheels?
Sell your 16s, fix whatever crap BEGi installed on your car that limits your front contact patch, and buy 225/45 RS-3s or R1Rs and 15x9 wheels. If you're serious about traction and performance, 16s are a joke.
-You are trying to hook up 250whp
-You do 45-60 minute road races and 140+mph blasts
Thus you need the widest, most badass street tire available. This puts you in the Kumho XS, RE-11, R1R, etc. category. Then you suggest a Falken 512 and reveal that you've screwed the pooch entirely by using 16" wheels?
Sell your 16s, fix whatever crap BEGi installed on your car that limits your front contact patch, and buy 225/45 RS-3s or R1Rs and 15x9 wheels. If you're serious about traction and performance, 16s are a joke.
#12
I did not see Fuzions on your list (made by Bridgestone).
Currently Available Prices and Sizes
I have a set in 205/50/15 and think they are great. I bought them after reading a favorable grassroots motorsports tire comparison article.
Currently Available Prices and Sizes
I have a set in 205/50/15 and think they are great. I bought them after reading a favorable grassroots motorsports tire comparison article.
#14
Not to be a dick, but let's recap:
-You are trying to hook up 250whp
-You do 45-60 minute road races and 140+mph blasts
Thus you need the widest, most badass street tire available. This puts you in the Kumho XS, RE-11, R1R, etc. category. Then you suggest a Falken 512 and reveal that you've screwed the pooch entirely by using 16" wheels?
Sell your 16s, fix whatever crap BEGi installed on your car that limits your front contact patch, and buy 225/45 RS-3s or R1Rs and 15x9 wheels. If you're serious about traction and performance, 16s are a joke.
-You are trying to hook up 250whp
-You do 45-60 minute road races and 140+mph blasts
Thus you need the widest, most badass street tire available. This puts you in the Kumho XS, RE-11, R1R, etc. category. Then you suggest a Falken 512 and reveal that you've screwed the pooch entirely by using 16" wheels?
Sell your 16s, fix whatever crap BEGi installed on your car that limits your front contact patch, and buy 225/45 RS-3s or R1Rs and 15x9 wheels. If you're serious about traction and performance, 16s are a joke.
I like mine. Good on the track (cept the warm up lap, thought these would heat up quicker as autoX tires) and street.
One more recommendation for the EcstaXS.
Chris
#15
Yeah. **** is fucked up and needs to be fixed before you worry about tires. I don't know what's "compromised," but you need to "uncompromise" it. Anything else is a bandaid at best, and a really bad idea at worst. Like Savington and others said, in a powerful car that you plan to use aggressively, there's no point in cheaping out on tires or skimping on how much rubber you stuff under there.
#16
Driver-side: Punched a hole in the well and re-routed heater and powersteering lines. They are tucked as close to the well as possible, but would be of concern at wheel-lock on a right-hander with a 225. The ducting for the oil cooler may also become a concern.
Passenger-side: Potential height issue due to relocation of the compact air-horn.
I too am running 204/45-16s. Toyo T1-Rs, measuring 23.2". The 215/40-16s are at 23.2 or less, depending upon manufacturer. - Anything taller will require rolling the fenders.
ZERO experience with Falken, other than some of the commentary on the boards. I remember (vaguely) some discussion on the 512s, but couldn't remember if it was good or bad.
When initially searching for rims after moving to the Wilwoods and larger front rotors, I searched for the lightest rim that would clear the calipers. I did not know about Emilio's creations when I made my decision to go with the RP-F1s.
As to the widest tires, the original plan was 205/45-16s up front and 245/35-16s in back. - But now realise the staggered setup would hurt more than help. (unless I can get recommendations on how to set camber/toe/etc to make it work...)
Based upon (a) the amount of money I've already spent and (b) the fact I am between jobs (paychecks), I can't justify buying rims and tires, especially when considering "high end" rubber.
Not available in 215/40-16.
Agreed. Tires are to cars as speakers are to stereo systems, "Buy the best you can afford to get the best performance out of the rest of your equipment." - Which is what I am looking for within the constraints of the size limitations.
I am running the Kumhos on my SAAB and have no complaints. However, they too are not available in 215/40-16.
- L
Passenger-side: Potential height issue due to relocation of the compact air-horn.
...you need the widest, most badass street tire available. This puts you in the Kumho XS, RE-11, R1R, etc. category. Then you suggest a Falken 512 and reveal that you've screwed the pooch entirely by using 16" wheels?
Sell your 16s, fix whatever crap BEGi installed on your car that limits your front contact patch, and buy 225/45 RS-3s or R1Rs and 15x9 wheels. If you're serious about traction and performance, 16s are a joke.
Sell your 16s, fix whatever crap BEGi installed on your car that limits your front contact patch, and buy 225/45 RS-3s or R1Rs and 15x9 wheels. If you're serious about traction and performance, 16s are a joke.
When initially searching for rims after moving to the Wilwoods and larger front rotors, I searched for the lightest rim that would clear the calipers. I did not know about Emilio's creations when I made my decision to go with the RP-F1s.
As to the widest tires, the original plan was 205/45-16s up front and 245/35-16s in back. - But now realise the staggered setup would hurt more than help. (unless I can get recommendations on how to set camber/toe/etc to make it work...)
Based upon (a) the amount of money I've already spent and (b) the fact I am between jobs (paychecks), I can't justify buying rims and tires, especially when considering "high end" rubber.
Not available in 215/40-16.
I am running the Kumhos on my SAAB and have no complaints. However, they too are not available in 215/40-16.
- L
Last edited by l_bader; 04-28-2009 at 04:41 PM.
#17
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
If I had to pick one tire to do everything, it would be R1Rs. The new generation silica based tires last lots and lots longer than old *** carbon-based Azenis. I'm toying with the idea of running R1R's on the track for NASATT to stay in the street classes.
Larry,
I know a guy selling bronze TE-37s if you're interested in a 15x7.5. However, I think you should get the 15x9's and run stickies.
People trip about tires. I run rock-hard rubber on the street and r-comps on the track. I don't drive in a manner that I need grip on the street...jail probably sucks.
Larry,
I know a guy selling bronze TE-37s if you're interested in a 15x7.5. However, I think you should get the 15x9's and run stickies.
People trip about tires. I run rock-hard rubber on the street and r-comps on the track. I don't drive in a manner that I need grip on the street...jail probably sucks.
#18
Yeah. **** is fucked up and needs to be fixed before you worry about tires. I don't know what's "compromised," but you need to "uncompromise" it. Anything else is a bandaid at best, and a really bad idea at worst. Like Savington and others said, in a powerful car that you plan to use aggressively, there's no point in cheaping out on tires or skimping on how much rubber you stuff under there.
I gotta agree with the newb here. It would probably be a good idea to spend some time and figure out a better way to route your lines. Wheelwells are not a friendly environment for vital fluid lines.
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