The thread where I ask dumb questions v. suspension
#1
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From: atlanta-ish
The thread where I ask dumb questions v. suspension
Assuming one were installing Tein Flex on an NB tomorrow, and further assuming that one has no practical experience adjusting coilovers...
This is the procedure I understand. Install assemblies. Set ride height by unlocking low collar and spinning assembly. Compress wheel into fender. Lengthen shock to no contact + 3 turns.
Next is adjust rear preload. Preload both raises ride height and increases bump travel, yes? It does this by limiting droop travel, yes? I adjust preload by measuring hub to fender with wheel on ground and subtracting that from hub to fender with wheel at full droop. What is the magic value, or range of values I'm looking for? I see the number 1.5" for the rears being thrown around.
Should turn out in the range of 12.25F 12.75R. Should be rake of .5-.75".
Assume NB, Tein twin-Flex, standard rate springs.
Shoot me some pointers, and make me less lost. KTHXBYE
This is the procedure I understand. Install assemblies. Set ride height by unlocking low collar and spinning assembly. Compress wheel into fender. Lengthen shock to no contact + 3 turns.
Next is adjust rear preload. Preload both raises ride height and increases bump travel, yes? It does this by limiting droop travel, yes? I adjust preload by measuring hub to fender with wheel on ground and subtracting that from hub to fender with wheel at full droop. What is the magic value, or range of values I'm looking for? I see the number 1.5" for the rears being thrown around.
Should turn out in the range of 12.25F 12.75R. Should be rake of .5-.75".
Assume NB, Tein twin-Flex, standard rate springs.
Shoot me some pointers, and make me less lost. KTHXBYE
#2
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From: atlanta-ish
Set front shock length with steering wheel turned. Measure rear exposed shock shaft. Add preload to front spring until exposed shock shaft is 90% of rear.
Verify rake. Adjust shock length as necessary.
At some point, corner weight car by adjusting preload only.
Verify rake. Adjust shock length as necessary.
At some point, corner weight car by adjusting preload only.
#4
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From: atlanta-ish
Thank you, I understand.
Adjust out the rears to ~1.4", set front exposed shock shaft to 90% of rear, and then raise front ride height to ~.5" rake. That's it (for a good base set up), right? This should result in minimum ride height, and hopefully keep me out of the bumpstops.
Not bad.
Adjust out the rears to ~1.4", set front exposed shock shaft to 90% of rear, and then raise front ride height to ~.5" rake. That's it (for a good base set up), right? This should result in minimum ride height, and hopefully keep me out of the bumpstops.
Not bad.
#6
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From: atlanta-ish
Thanks for the guidance Jason.
Installed new shock on all 4 corners on an Altima. Owner could have purchased all 4 corners as complete assemblies for $100 more, but no, he purchased just the shocks and hats for the front. So we had to build them all up with the springs and small parts from the old assembles. Oh, and yeah by the way, he also needed a new axle, tie rod ends, and a sway end link. BTW, to do rear suspension on an Altima, you have to pull rear interior out... So that only took 8 hours.
After that, I wasn't fresh enough to really deal with the Flex. They're in there. They're not set up perfectly, but they're close. It's raining, so I couldn't really test them too much.
However I did immediately notice that they are firmer than the SS. I did not notice how much bump steer I used to have with the SS--I did however notice the absense of bump steer with the Flex now. They also feel much tighter than the Flex. I assume it's do to the better top hats, because there is also a little bit more noise.
Bad:
I twisted all 4 adjusters clockwise to full firm and backed off to the first click. Worked pefect on 3 of them. On the 4th, when I went to back of CCW past the first click, the knurled adjuster **** thing actually unthreaded from the shock.
Is this a real problem? Reinstall with loctite and be merry? Or is it time for a warm bath and razorblades?
Installed new shock on all 4 corners on an Altima. Owner could have purchased all 4 corners as complete assemblies for $100 more, but no, he purchased just the shocks and hats for the front. So we had to build them all up with the springs and small parts from the old assembles. Oh, and yeah by the way, he also needed a new axle, tie rod ends, and a sway end link. BTW, to do rear suspension on an Altima, you have to pull rear interior out... So that only took 8 hours.
After that, I wasn't fresh enough to really deal with the Flex. They're in there. They're not set up perfectly, but they're close. It's raining, so I couldn't really test them too much.
However I did immediately notice that they are firmer than the SS. I did not notice how much bump steer I used to have with the SS--I did however notice the absense of bump steer with the Flex now. They also feel much tighter than the Flex. I assume it's do to the better top hats, because there is also a little bit more noise.
Bad:
I twisted all 4 adjusters clockwise to full firm and backed off to the first click. Worked pefect on 3 of them. On the 4th, when I went to back of CCW past the first click, the knurled adjuster **** thing actually unthreaded from the shock.
Is this a real problem? Reinstall with loctite and be merry? Or is it time for a warm bath and razorblades?
#9
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From: atlanta-ish
World is saved.
Called Tein's brand new service facility in Norcross GA (less than a half hour from my house ). The click adjuster can become dislodged with vibration. This is rare, but can happen. The Tein guy told me to reinstall and tighten up the little 8mm hex nut (under the knurled ****) with a wrench and see what happens. I honestly didn't even notice there was a hex nut below the knurled **** because the **** has a larger OD than the nut. He stayed on the phone with me while I did it. The adjuster is now in place, and I dialed down all 4 corners. He said if that didn't work, I could try swapping adjusters between the sides and/or go to their new facility and just pick up a new click adjuster. But it did work, so I'm done. Happy camper I am.
It is supposed to be beautiful tomorrow, so I'll take it for a ride then.
Called Tein's brand new service facility in Norcross GA (less than a half hour from my house ). The click adjuster can become dislodged with vibration. This is rare, but can happen. The Tein guy told me to reinstall and tighten up the little 8mm hex nut (under the knurled ****) with a wrench and see what happens. I honestly didn't even notice there was a hex nut below the knurled **** because the **** has a larger OD than the nut. He stayed on the phone with me while I did it. The adjuster is now in place, and I dialed down all 4 corners. He said if that didn't work, I could try swapping adjusters between the sides and/or go to their new facility and just pick up a new click adjuster. But it did work, so I'm done. Happy camper I am.
It is supposed to be beautiful tomorrow, so I'll take it for a ride then.
#10
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From: atlanta-ish
Wow these Flex make the car feel much more solid and connected. Definite increase in NVH, but the car feels much more stable whipping around a 30 mph clover leaf at 80.
Double edged sword though. So far, they're also harsher to live with and stiff. I'm at 8F 11R (clicks CCW from full stiff). I will try a softer setting next time I drive.
Double edged sword though. So far, they're also harsher to live with and stiff. I'm at 8F 11R (clicks CCW from full stiff). I will try a softer setting next time I drive.
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