Sway bar set up Hybrid vs pair
#1
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys,
So i'm a noob looking into getting some sway bars for my 94 NA,
Would you guys recommend a RB tubular front with stock rear or a flying miata pair for front and back.
I have a Mishimoto radiator and am concerned about how much of the OEM shroud I need to trim for such a large sway bar OD (does anyone have pics of this).
Thanks
So i'm a noob looking into getting some sway bars for my 94 NA,
Would you guys recommend a RB tubular front with stock rear or a flying miata pair for front and back.
I have a Mishimoto radiator and am concerned about how much of the OEM shroud I need to trim for such a large sway bar OD (does anyone have pics of this).
Thanks
#5
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
for a mix between auto-x and and tracking and a decent amount of drifting as well. I've only been auto-xing and drifting in my friends NA with FM sways, endlinks, and Tein flex 7/6 set up and that felt pretty awesome.
I'll prolly start with mostly auto-x and drift, and minimal understeer would be preferred
This car is not my DD so i don't really care how it feels on street but i do drive it on the street on weekends and etc.
I'll prolly start with mostly auto-x and drift, and minimal understeer would be preferred
This car is not my DD so i don't really care how it feels on street but i do drive it on the street on weekends and etc.
#7
Elite Member
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,468
Total Cats: 365
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Fat Cat Motorsports has a calculator spreadsheet on their website. You want to look at the front/rear coupling parameter. Go spend some time with it.
Using it, I determined that with my spring rates (9kg front / 6kg rear), putting FM's bar in the front and leaving the stock rear bar in place would return my FRC to what it was stock. The car is very neutral and balanced with the FM front bar and oem rear bar.
Using it, I determined that with my spring rates (9kg front / 6kg rear), putting FM's bar in the front and leaving the stock rear bar in place would return my FRC to what it was stock. The car is very neutral and balanced with the FM front bar and oem rear bar.
#8
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^ Wow, nice recommendation. I thought it'd be fun to play with... but it might as well have been in Chinese, way over my head.
http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FRC_1_8...MSDS_1_8NA.htm
http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FRC_1_8...MSDS_1_8NA.htm
#10
Boost Pope
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/smod.png)
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,339
Total Cats: 6,793
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just be careful with the rear bar. It's easy to make the car very oversteer prone with too much rear bar, which may manifest itself as snap oversteer.
On the street, I've never found a use for anything larger than a stock rear bar, assuming any reasonably sane configuration of springs, dampers, tire and alignment.
On the street, I've never found a use for anything larger than a stock rear bar, assuming any reasonably sane configuration of springs, dampers, tire and alignment.
#16
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Racing beat race front bar. keep the stock rear bar. When you move up to big boy springs try and get it setup so that you run the stock rear bar in the rain on normal lots with the front bar on hard and then just have to pull an end link on the rear bar for the rain. Or only have to move the front bar to soft when you race on concrete.
#18
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^ Wow, nice recommendation. I thought it'd be fun to play with... but it might as well have been in Chinese, way over my head.
http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FRC_1_8...MSDS_1_8NA.htm
http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FRC_1_8...MSDS_1_8NA.htm
#19
Elite Member
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,468
Total Cats: 365
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Right. The FRC is a single number, easy to analyze and compare what you have vs. what you are thinking of doing. Even if one doesn't understand the rest of it knowing how the changes affect the FRC (or that you end up with it being about the same, if that's the goal) is worthwhile.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
04-21-2016 03:00 PM