With the patent approved, we can finally show our Boxmount caliper mounting system. A simple solution designed to improve brake feel, reduce pad taper and pad knockback. In production now and available February 2021. Pre-orders will open in a week or two. NA/NB Boxmount kits will start around $519 with Wilwood BP-10 street pads and ND rotors. Optional G-Loc race pads. Kits with our lightweight 2 piece rotors starting around $659. Later we'll offer our integrated 3" aluminum ducts that bolt directly to the caliper mounts. The 11" kit utilizes the new Spacerless Forged Dynalite caliper, which should be stiffer than the old style spacer style Dynapro.

11" NA/NB Boxmount Dynalite BBK options. Wilwood BP-10 street pads or any G-Loc pad compounds.
* Production kits will have the gray anodized Wilwood caliper, not the black painted version shown in these pics

• ND rotor - Feb 2021
• 2 piece rotor - Feb 2021
• Integrated 3" brake duct - April 2021

11.75 x1.0 or 1.25" Superlite Radial Boxmount

• Directional vane rotors - May 2021
• Integrated 3" brake ducts - May 2021
• Brake Duct hose kit- May 2021

The brake duct hose kit will include some useful mounting hardware, duct flanges. Some folks may find the hose kit an easy button for any Miata brake upgrade.
Our target wheel for the 11.75 kit to fit without spacers is our (discontinued) Gen 4 15x10 6UL. Most 15x9 +35 or +36 wheels will need a 5mm or so spacer to clear the 11.75.
The Gen 5 15x9 6UL due towards the end of 2021 should clear the 11.75 kit, but that's way down the road.
The 11" Dynalite kit will fit behind any wheel that clears other 11" Dynalite kits. We had a few question on FB/IG about the ST42 caliper with a Boxmount. No plans for such a kit for two reasons. One, the ST42 uses a small pad, the same size as the Dynalite. Two, the ST42 caliper costs a much as the Superlite, which is a much beefier caliper and has something like 2.5x the pad volume. The Superlite is a proven caliper on the NA/NB with big HP on track.
In the pics below, you can see the huge cross sectional area for airflow to the center of the rotor. Not really possible with traditional lug mount adapters. The Boxmount reduces total mass, increases torsional stiffness while allowing that airflow. So, several reasons for the Boxmount.
Download brake clearance template

We'l post pics of the ducts right before they go on sale. Until then, top sekrit

 

As a non-engineer, what is the reason for a 3 washer stack under the head of the mounting bolt?

 

Keep the bolt from hitting the rotor?

--Ian

 

Just to confirm, the $519 will include the BP-10 pads, 11" ND rotors, the box-mount bracket, AND dynalite calipers?

 

On FB I believe they stated that this was a placeholder for the future brake duct hardware.

 

Correct, for now at least. By the time kits go out the door we may end up just using shorter bolts to eliminate the spacer. Then supply longer bolts with the ducts. That would be cleaner.

Yup. And you aren't the first person to be kinda surprised by that. Big part of the whole product development process is managing costs and the supply chain. No point in the neatest BBK evar if no one can afford it. At that price, we think the ND version with race pads will be a no brainer for budget enduro teams, when rules allow.

 

I just want to make sure I understand this correct due to the plethora of BBK options out there and the fact I'm going to likely be in the market for a BBK in 2021. In short, the goal of the boxmount is to stiffen the way the caliper is mounted. I get the design principles (stiffer = more better). Neat little idea you had. Congrats on getting it all patented up!

So to continue... Is there documentation somewhere comparing stiffness of the new forged Dynalites to the existing Dynapros that I dont think have been revised?? I'd be interested in educating myself if so... I'd assume there has to be some sort of benefit to the DP given they still hold a price premium over the new gen DL..

 

No documentation from Wilwood, just general theory. No spacer known to be stiffer than spacer, all else being equal. In any case, any perceived inadequacy of any caliper is rarely based on direct personal experience. 100% OEM brakes feel great when setup and functioning properly. I have also driven Miatas with expensive BBK's that felt like poo. Set up and maintenance matters and I believe, is more responsible for the perception of one system over another more than their actual merits.

Things that make any Miata brakes feel like poo:
-Slightly bent spindles.
This puts rotor and caliper and ever so slightly different centerlines. Which is basically built in knock-back. Most hard driven HPDE and race Miata have slightly bent spindles, and mushy brakes.
- Rear caliper auto-adjusters that are stuck or sticky.
This keep normal parking brake actuation from adjust freeplay in rear calipers, leading to a long pedal.
-Poorly bled hydraulics
Not everyone knows to work from shortest to longest hardline corner. Old fluid or infrequent bleeding for track cars.
-Overheated pads that are tapered.
Tapered pads are probably the most common cause of a mushy brake pedal.

Long way of saying, don't overthink it too much. Dynalites, while perhaps not as sexy as some other calipers, get the job done just fine. They'll feel and perform better than OEM caliper based systems. We wouldn't design a kit based on them otherwise.

 

For the OCD amongst us, could you please spec JIS bolts while you're at it? I really, really hate 13mm fasteners.

Glad to hear it. I think some "big brake" kits out there exist just to put aftermarket calipers on the car. Given the price of this kit, I figured the Dynalite choice was made to satisfy that customer base. I was clearly wrong.

Out of personal interest - TT/ST4 car with K24 power - should these be my brakes next season? I'm stock now...

 

Price was definitely a consideration in selecting the Dynalite caliper, but it's not the big sacrifice some make it out to be.

TT/ST4 would be well served with this kit with our upcoming duct kit. Much more power/aero/grip than that and you really want the upcoming 11.75" radial kit.

 

Just to confirm, these new spacerless Dynalite calipers still use 7112 pads, correct?

 

Ed's exactly right. If the $520-700 11" Dynalite kit isn't enough for your needs, you should be looking at the $900-$1200 11.75 Superlite kit coming later.

One could get lost in all the potential combinations, Dynalite, Dynapro, Superlite, ST42, 11", 11.75". We focused on the most affordable kit for <250whp street cars or <200whp track cars with the 11". The Big Dog 11.75 for everything else. Offering a bunch of intermediate kit options confuses things and drives prices up with all the extra production parts and stocking levels.

 

I was lost but now am found; preach it Brother Emilio.

You're Henry Ford and this is the Model T of brake kits - any color you like so long as it is orange.

 

Will you be adding any upgrades for the rear brakes?

 

Nope! This pairs with normal 1.8 rears. Add an adjustable proportioning valve and good pads and send it.

 

From a thermal capacity perspective, we haven't found a need for a rear BBK even in our most vicious builds. There are some modest weight savings to be had however. No one on the street should give up a parking brake and a few racers are willing to either. The only reasonably priced rear caliper with a parking brake mechanism, the Wilwood Powerlite is pretty weak and won't actually stop the car. It'll keep it from rolling away on sloping ground but that's about it. To do a BBK with parking brake requires either adding a second steel parking caliper or a very complex internal drum brake system inside the rotor like some modern disc brake cars have. Either of those options preclude any potential weight savings and would not be cheap. So you're sort of back to square one when you didn't need the extra thermal capacity anyway.

 

Who was it that used to say "veeery interesting!" on the box, back in the dark ages? I'd be "veeeery" interested in a set of 11s for my dual duty MSM, but probably with the two-piece rotors. Will watch developments closely, especially the ducting.

I have always believed this to be so, but not actively sought out confirmation because, well, never needed it. So it is nice to see this confirmed by someone with cred.

 

IME they don't even do that very well.

They also gave a bad pedal feel and made the car unstable at high speed braking (say turn 2 at Laguna). I think the piston diameter is just too big. Eventually I dumped them and went back to OEM rears with extension brackets and sport rotors and it was much better (much as I hate those stupid adjusters).

--Ian

 

The Powerlite parking brake caliper can be had with the correct piston diameter so that shouldn't be the issue. If you had problems with functionality, it was more likely the bracket design or something else in the system. I had one or two of my race cars built without an e brake. Looking back, I don't think that was a great idea and now leave the E-brake mech on.

 

FWIW, and maybe I just lucked into the right combination of parts, but I'm running the Powerlight 'parking brake' rears on sport rotors (Dynapro radials on 11.75 up front) on our NA and have been very happy with the feel on track. They are definitely marginal as a 'parking' brake, but at least it's there.

Watching the Boxmount development with interest... brakes are on the list for our NB next year.