How terrible would it be driving my NA with a 9 lb flywheel, ACT Heavy duty pressure plate, and their 6 puck clutch?

I have the ACT full disk right now, but I figured since I have the engine and transmission out is it worth $100 to get a 6 puck clutch? I will be driving the car everyday to school and work.

FYI: The engine is a '96 with 11:1 pistons and a '99 head

 

No better or worse than any other puck clutch. What's your reasoning for wanting to go with a 6 puck?

 

Well I've never driven a car with a puck clutch, so I'm not sure how that would be.

My engine builder suggested I do it. I also do about 10 track days a year.

 

I have that setup, just without a HD pressure plate. It is about in between the FSAE car here at pitt and the stock organic clutch on a miata. I find it very DD able, but you will get the occasional shudder/shake, and expect to stall a few times until you get used to it. Just be a man and do it. Oh, it will be harder on the powertrain, but so far so good for me...

 

I have the HD 6 puck and I doubt I would like it with a light flywheel. I have the stock flywheel now. If you're not streeting it in stop and go traffic then who cares.
I get some chatter with the 6 puck now, I would expect that to be worse with the lighter flywheel.

 

There's a car floating around here with a 9 or 11lb flywheel and a 6-puck disc. It's damn near undriveable - and I put 30k on my ACT HD 6-puck with a full-weight flywheel.

 

I find with my setup I have to take off around 2k rpm, a little slip, then im good. Its really not bad.

 

I drove that car to a meet one night. It was literally a mini-burnout off every stoplight. 3k, step off the clutch, chirp the tires, and go. There was no other way to get that car moving, and I'm not new to pucked clutches. The lwfw makes it undriveable.

No matter how nasty your NA build, you can do an HD with a street disc. It will be nicer on the drivetrain, easier to drive, all around better. Pucked discs are for reducing rotating mass or holding more power.

 

And people laughed when I pulled out my lightweight flywheel....and I was on a street disc My biggest issues was the rapid rev drops that would stall the car in traffic. Maybe go with a 13lb. lightened flywheel.

 

I have a FM 10# flywheel and ACH hd, granted it's not a puck disc. It's streetable, but it takes some getting used to. I haven't had a problem with idle drop. It takes up right at the floor. It's not too heavy for daily use, but FM does have a clutch kit that they say is more linear and requires lighter pedal pressure. Going over to our stock-clutched n/a is a tough transition-it feels 'soft.'

 

I had a super light flywheel and super light clutch with cerametallic disks (twin).

I daily drove it for a couple ten thousand miles. it pretty much sucked for all of them.

you're running a naturally aspirated car with well under the limit of even the stock clutch... I'd get the ACT HD and stick with organic. if you want something more awesome, get emilio@949's twin plate organic.

it's not the weight so much as the lack of slip in the pucks.

 

Had a 6puck on an N/A car and hated it. Clutch chatter and shudder hell. Every time I slipped the clutch the car either 1) chatters or 2) shudders. It gets old quick. Unless you really need the power holding capacity of a 6 puck, get a heavy duty sprung clutch with a lightweight flywheel. For turbo, get a 13lb or keep the stock flywheel.

 

I DD the ACT HD 6-puck sprung with their 10lb FW, its not undriveable but its sort of like a on/off switch. It'll shudder every now and then, especially when its cold out.

Its this setup:




But it did grab really nice and I was always confident I could throw anything at the clutch and it would be fine. With the combination of the lightweight FW and the slightly lighter internals my engine had pretty good response. Favorite part of the setup is that I noticed a large difference in shifting at higher rpms, its where the setup belongs. That alone made up for the annoying larches on hills.



+1, my dad has a 7lb fidanza on his 91 and when we first put it on it'd have that rapid rev drop and die. Played with the idler screw and fixed most of problem. Weirdly enough, we put a simple intake on and it helped it even more. I suppose the stock intake system was a little restrictive and the aftermarket one was pulling in more air even off the throttle.

As far as streetability the 7lb FW was on a standard "stage 2" organic disc clutch and is fairly easy to drive around town. Cake-walk after driving my setup lol.


just my .02 cents, hope some of it helps!

 

Thats the same setup I've except with a full disk. I'm going to go drive a 4 puck'd turbo NA later today to see if I can finalize my decision

 

I wouldn't call a 6 puck and lwfw 'undrivable', but I certainly wouldn't want to daily one. I wouldn't think twice about putting it in a toy, but my definition of a 'daily driver' is something I could let my mom drive to the store without any special instructions, other than *possibly* "It's fast, respect it." But even then, if I have to warn Mom not to be careless in a car, then it's so fast that it couldn't possibly be fun to drive everyday, anyway, as I'd be driving it every day without a license

 

My dad can daily my 6-puck, he's 65 and in no shape to drive a manual transmission anymore.

 

If I did anything, I would get a 1.6 clutch set up with a solid, sprung disc.

 

I have a Fidanza flywheel (8lbs) and Clutchnet clutch in my car, the race press. plate with the HD organic (full) disc which works fine with no idle drop issues. For what you're doing the 6 puck is way overkill and tons harder to drive on the street, stick with the full disc, a good press. plate, and the light flywheel.

 

im still interested to see my car on fidanze lwfw and ACT 6 puck Xtreme setup.

havent drove it with this yet, but it couldnt be any worse than my s13 which has lwfw and 4 puck....


they shudder, chirp and you cant drive below 2000 or it will shake like mad.

 

y8s, that doesn't look like the 949 clutch...what is that?