Stainless Steel Brake Lines/prop valve question
#1
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I figured that I might as well replace the old factory ones on the V8 car while everything is apart.
Good-win sells these for $99. http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-0480.html
Searching, moss has the exact same photo in their ad for $169 at Saferacer.
http://www.saferacer.com/moss-motors...?productid=562
I don't know if they are the same or if someone stole someone else's photo. Any thoughts or others to consider as opposed to the $99 ones from Brian?
Also, I have an M-tuned Corrado front big brake kit to go in. It came with a set of XP10 front and rear pads.
I know that most run XP10 front, XP8 rear on stock rotors, but I figured with the larger rotors up front yielding better leverage, maybe the ZP10/10 is OK? They came this way with the big brake kit used.
Finally, will I need a prop valve?
Thoughts?
I'm planning on another set of rotors/street pads for DD duties.
Good-win sells these for $99. http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-0480.html
Searching, moss has the exact same photo in their ad for $169 at Saferacer.
http://www.saferacer.com/moss-motors...?productid=562
I don't know if they are the same or if someone stole someone else's photo. Any thoughts or others to consider as opposed to the $99 ones from Brian?
Also, I have an M-tuned Corrado front big brake kit to go in. It came with a set of XP10 front and rear pads.
I know that most run XP10 front, XP8 rear on stock rotors, but I figured with the larger rotors up front yielding better leverage, maybe the ZP10/10 is OK? They came this way with the big brake kit used.
Finally, will I need a prop valve?
Thoughts?
I'm planning on another set of rotors/street pads for DD duties.
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You would not say that if you had driven one. Miata + V8 = awesome
In for the answer since I could probably use new brake lines.
EDIT: Emilio has a setup as well $114
http://949racing.com/miatabrakelines.aspx
In for the answer since I could probably use new brake lines.
EDIT: Emilio has a setup as well $114
http://949racing.com/miatabrakelines.aspx
#6
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Stein, what is your brake setup going to be? If you decide to go with the TSE kit the front lines on both kits linked above will be useless.
That said, i have gone from stock (1.6) to 1.8s, then stainless lines and now the TSE kit up front stock 1.8 rears with stainless lines all around. I am finally content with my braking setup. DTC-60s up front ducted (thanks again Machismo) and DTC-30s out back. This is all joined together with a willwood prop valve.
That said, i have gone from stock (1.6) to 1.8s, then stainless lines and now the TSE kit up front stock 1.8 rears with stainless lines all around. I am finally content with my braking setup. DTC-60s up front ducted (thanks again Machismo) and DTC-30s out back. This is all joined together with a willwood prop valve.
#7
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Sorry, I could have been more clear. It's the M-Tuned kit which is basically a set of brackets to move the front stock calipers out so they will work with the 11" VW Corrado rotors. http://www.etdracing.com/m-tuned/pro...products_id=80
Rears are stock Miata. This is on an NB.
Rears are stock Miata. This is on an NB.
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You would not say that if you had driven one. Miata + V8 = awesome
In for the answer since I could probably use new brake lines.
EDIT: Emilio has a setup as well $114
http://949racing.com/miatabrakelines.aspx
In for the answer since I could probably use new brake lines.
EDIT: Emilio has a setup as well $114
http://949racing.com/miatabrakelines.aspx
/rant
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I am here, fear not. I swapped to sport brakes and my old "1.8-length" SS lines did not fit. TDR sells brake lines for a reasonable price that will fit the sport brakes.
Yes, you want the wilwood bias valve. However, I recommend the one with the funky handle so you can visually look at it and know its setting, rather than the mystery of "how many times did I twist the ****."
The problem with Corrado rotors is the "outboard venting." They don't take in enough air and you have to spend $180 on inboard vented rotors from Racing Brake or your **** will overheat like mine did.
You also need to use a very hard pad with the single-piston calipers or the compressibility of soft pads will cause extreme pad taper. I recommend blues if you're going to use shitty single-piston brakes. If you're not tracking this thing, disregard everything I've said.
Yes, you want the wilwood bias valve. However, I recommend the one with the funky handle so you can visually look at it and know its setting, rather than the mystery of "how many times did I twist the ****."
The problem with Corrado rotors is the "outboard venting." They don't take in enough air and you have to spend $180 on inboard vented rotors from Racing Brake or your **** will overheat like mine did.
You also need to use a very hard pad with the single-piston calipers or the compressibility of soft pads will cause extreme pad taper. I recommend blues if you're going to use shitty single-piston brakes. If you're not tracking this thing, disregard everything I've said.
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TDR has that same picture as Goodwin and Saferacer LOL
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...rake_lines.htm
You can ask Emilio if his lines will work with the adapter kit. I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.
You can drive those carbotechs on the street, I have. But they are freaking noisy little bitches. They squeal like a ****.
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...rake_lines.htm
You can ask Emilio if his lines will work with the adapter kit. I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.
You can drive those carbotechs on the street, I have. But they are freaking noisy little bitches. They squeal like a ****.
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TDR has that same picture as Goodwin and Saferacer LOL
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...rake_lines.htm
You can ask Emilio if his lines will work with the adapter kit. I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...rake_lines.htm
You can ask Emilio if his lines will work with the adapter kit. I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.
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TDR has that same picture as Goodwin and Saferacer LOL
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...rake_lines.htm
You can ask Emilio if his lines will work with the adapter kit. I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...rake_lines.htm
You can ask Emilio if his lines will work with the adapter kit. I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.
#13
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I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.
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FWIW, Moss is always a ****-ton more expensive on the same exact British car parts than their chief competitor, Victoria British. I would expect that to be their situation on everything they carry, even brake lines.
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There was a big debate in some old thread around here about whether or not the larger rear brakes were even really needed with race pads. But with the LS1 I did not want to take any chances on the brakes so I did it anyway.
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So I guess my only question is to see if the Good-Win or Emilio's lines work with the relocated big brake kit (should if ZX's stock lines work with his).
I can always up to sport rears down the road. I might as well throw the prop valve in anyway while everything is torn apart. What's another $50 at this point? It's been a steady stream of cash flowing out anyway.
Anyone that says you can realistically do a quality V8 swap for less than $10K is kidding themselves.
I can always up to sport rears down the road. I might as well throw the prop valve in anyway while everything is torn apart. What's another $50 at this point? It's been a steady stream of cash flowing out anyway.
Anyone that says you can realistically do a quality V8 swap for less than $10K is kidding themselves.
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