Source for power steering delete tensioner
#42
Yeah, I found like 5 places selling it. Just google the part number.
I ordered from KiaPartsNow.com.
edit: here- https://www.kiapartsnow.com/genuine/...k20115930.html
edit2- I'm assuming that these sites are selling parts they actually have in inventory. If I'm wrong, I apologize. Anyway, I placed an order, so I should know soon.
I ordered plugs from miatacage.com, I liked that they made them work with two wrench sizes, no allen wrench bullshit.
I ordered from KiaPartsNow.com.
edit: here- https://www.kiapartsnow.com/genuine/...k20115930.html
edit2- I'm assuming that these sites are selling parts they actually have in inventory. If I'm wrong, I apologize. Anyway, I placed an order, so I should know soon.
I ordered plugs from miatacage.com, I liked that they made them work with two wrench sizes, no allen wrench bullshit.
Last edited by AlwaysBroken; 05-06-2017 at 09:53 PM.
#45
I did a little research and found this:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=502970
I'll do surgery tomorrow and post pictures. Miata PS pumps are 30 bucks a pop and 99.9 percent of deletes start with one. I think converting it from a pump to a pulley is a brilliant and cheap idea.
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=502970
I'll do surgery tomorrow and post pictures. Miata PS pumps are 30 bucks a pop and 99.9 percent of deletes start with one. I think converting it from a pump to a pulley is a brilliant and cheap idea.
#47
^ I initially used the belt in your writeup, but it was far too tight. With the compressor over an inch away from flush on the rear bolt areas, the belt was already tight.
I'm currently using the next belt size up, with two washers on each a/c compressor bolt, but I still get a small amount of belt slip when the clutch engages.
I'm currently using the next belt size up, with two washers on each a/c compressor bolt, but I still get a small amount of belt slip when the clutch engages.
#48
It's actually pretty easy, give or take.
1. Remove exhaust
2. Remove bolt holding in PS pump. If you inserted it from the back, this will take 2 minutes. If you inserted it from the front, this will take an hour because of your rad fans.
3. Put the thing in a vise and remove the four bolts on the back with a 12mm socket. I didn't even have to use heat.
4. The little circular bit doesn't come out. But the housing around it and the little apex seal looking things do. Just flip it over and give a smack on the wheel side and everything flies out.
5. The tube on the side comes off as well with a 10mm socket, but the tube thing isn't a standard size fitting that you can replace with a blockoff plate.
****, I just realized I could have done this entire job without removing the PS pump.
1. Remove exhaust
2. Remove bolt holding in PS pump. If you inserted it from the back, this will take 2 minutes. If you inserted it from the front, this will take an hour because of your rad fans.
3. Put the thing in a vise and remove the four bolts on the back with a 12mm socket. I didn't even have to use heat.
4. The little circular bit doesn't come out. But the housing around it and the little apex seal looking things do. Just flip it over and give a smack on the wheel side and everything flies out.
5. The tube on the side comes off as well with a 10mm socket, but the tube thing isn't a standard size fitting that you can replace with a blockoff plate.
****, I just realized I could have done this entire job without removing the PS pump.
#49
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^ I initially used the belt in your writeup, but it was far too tight. With the compressor over an inch away from flush on the rear bolt areas, the belt was already tight.
I'm currently using the next belt size up, with two washers on each a/c compressor bolt, but I still get a small amount of belt slip when the clutch engages.
I'm currently using the next belt size up, with two washers on each a/c compressor bolt, but I still get a small amount of belt slip when the clutch engages.
#53
Shimming the compressor every time I change the belt seems like a huge pain in the ***.
Also, I'm a big stickler for correct belt tension because before I did it my belts would alternate between squealing and snapping. Now they are quiet and last forever.
#54
What are my other choices besides spending 150 bucks on eBay for a "rare ps idler pulley"?
Shimming the compressor every time I change the belt seems like a huge pain in the ***.
Also, I'm a big stickler for correct belt tension because before I did it my belts would alternate between squealing and snapping. Now they are quiet and last forever.
Shimming the compressor every time I change the belt seems like a huge pain in the ***.
Also, I'm a big stickler for correct belt tension because before I did it my belts would alternate between squealing and snapping. Now they are quiet and last forever.
#55
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I have only had two belts in 5 or 6 years. Shimming is just adding a couple of washers. Not a big deal. Especially compared to any other upgrades and maintenance work required to get the car to this state.
I don't want to ever give up all that space there again, too.
I don't want to ever give up all that space there again, too.
#57
Very carefully.
shim the top two bolts while above the car, and the bottom two bolts while underneath the car.
I did one bolt at a time, with the other bolts loose, but still supporting the weight of the compressor.
Literally feel around the area before putting the washers in, and its sort of trial an error. if one washer is too loose at the belt, then take it out, and put two in. Adding all the washers at the same time is so much easier. I probably wasted 20 minutes before figuring that one out.
I was able to put two washers in all four locations, and the belt is a little too loose. At higher than idle rpms, the belt squawks/slips briefly. I'll have to try and squeeze three in.
I'm sure you could also shim the compressor without a belt on it, then use a belt stretch/install tool like many new oems require.
shim the top two bolts while above the car, and the bottom two bolts while underneath the car.
I did one bolt at a time, with the other bolts loose, but still supporting the weight of the compressor.
Literally feel around the area before putting the washers in, and its sort of trial an error. if one washer is too loose at the belt, then take it out, and put two in. Adding all the washers at the same time is so much easier. I probably wasted 20 minutes before figuring that one out.
I was able to put two washers in all four locations, and the belt is a little too loose. At higher than idle rpms, the belt squawks/slips briefly. I'll have to try and squeeze three in.
I'm sure you could also shim the compressor without a belt on it, then use a belt stretch/install tool like many new oems require.
#58
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I put washers in the front two holes and start the bolts a couple of threads. The nose of the compressor angles towards the crank pulley as the belt pulls upon it slightly. Putting the washers and bolts in the rear positions straightens the compressor and tightens the belt. If too tight or loose, rinse and repeat. Sometimes it just requires washers in the top two positions and not all 4. Sometimes it requires a different length belt (NA6, NA8, NB1, NB2 have compressor, bracket, and pulley differences).
#60
I don't really need the space either, but gonna give that method a go this weekend in the name of adding lightness to my porker. ~5lbs is worth like a full second, right...right?! If anything it'll make it that much easier to build a box around my intake, so maybe I do need the space. Would also like to keep a perfectly good P/S pump in working order.