Ring & Pinion Swap Questions
#22
As noted, you need a shop manual (should already have) torque wrench (hope you aren't working on cars without this), ordinary hand tools and about $100 of specialized tools consisting of:
1. dial indicator and base (which you need to degree a cam, check/set top dead center accurately, measure deck height, clock/check brake rotors, check crankshaftshaft endplay)
2. 7" micrometer (which you might not even need, Mazda FSM suggests using)
Lots of luck finding a shop that will do a quality rear end setup for $100.
1. dial indicator and base (which you need to degree a cam, check/set top dead center accurately, measure deck height, clock/check brake rotors, check crankshaftshaft endplay)
2. 7" micrometer (which you might not even need, Mazda FSM suggests using)
Lots of luck finding a shop that will do a quality rear end setup for $100.
#25
Bryan,
What's the part number and price for the Miata Eaton posi? How about the part number and price for the Miata gears???? Is that a price for a Ford 8.8 install or a 7" Miata??? Base install prices also do not include:
1. New carrier bearings
2. New pinion bearings
3. New pinion seal
4. New stub shaft seals
The shop will sell those to you at list and charge for installation thereof. Most reputable shops will not a gear install without replacing the bearings and seals because they do not want to see you coming back with complaints of leaks or bearing noise.
What's the part number and price for the Miata Eaton posi? How about the part number and price for the Miata gears???? Is that a price for a Ford 8.8 install or a 7" Miata??? Base install prices also do not include:
1. New carrier bearings
2. New pinion bearings
3. New pinion seal
4. New stub shaft seals
The shop will sell those to you at list and charge for installation thereof. Most reputable shops will not a gear install without replacing the bearings and seals because they do not want to see you coming back with complaints of leaks or bearing noise.
#26
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i dont know part numbers, but a freind of mine had a chevy 9 inch, got 4:10 gears, eaton posi, and the installed both and re-built the rear-end too, all for $500. was just a standard off-road mostly shop here locally. its not expensive to pay someone to install the gears if you give them everything.
#27
You don't know part numbers because you are talking out of your ***; STFU if you don't what you are talking about.
1. Eaton does not make a posi that fits a Miata rear end
2. Eaton does not make a posi that fits a 9" Chevy rear end
3. Summit sells the Eaton posi that fits the 8.875" GM rear for $459.95
4. Summit's cheapest ring & pinion set (w/o the installation kit!) sells for $149.95
5. Your Jacksonville shop can't undersell Summit and stay in business by selling $610 worth of parts with a free installation kit (pinion shim, pinion seal, gaskets, etc) for and free install (worth at least $350) for $500.
1. Eaton does not make a posi that fits a Miata rear end
2. Eaton does not make a posi that fits a 9" Chevy rear end
3. Summit sells the Eaton posi that fits the 8.875" GM rear for $459.95
4. Summit's cheapest ring & pinion set (w/o the installation kit!) sells for $149.95
5. Your Jacksonville shop can't undersell Summit and stay in business by selling $610 worth of parts with a free installation kit (pinion shim, pinion seal, gaskets, etc) for and free install (worth at least $350) for $500.
#28
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You don't know part numbers because you are talking out of your ***; STFU if you don't what you are talking about.
1. Eaton does not make a posi that fits a Miata rear end
2. Eaton does not make a posi that fits a 9" Chevy rear end
3. Summit sells the Eaton posi that fits the 8.875" GM rear for $459.95
4. Summit's cheapest ring & pinion set (w/o the installation kit!) sells for $149.95
5. Your Jacksonville shop can't undersell Summit and stay in business by selling $610 worth of parts with a free installation kit (pinion shim, pinion seal, gaskets, etc) for and free install (worth at least $350) for $500.
1. Eaton does not make a posi that fits a Miata rear end
2. Eaton does not make a posi that fits a 9" Chevy rear end
3. Summit sells the Eaton posi that fits the 8.875" GM rear for $459.95
4. Summit's cheapest ring & pinion set (w/o the installation kit!) sells for $149.95
5. Your Jacksonville shop can't undersell Summit and stay in business by selling $610 worth of parts with a free installation kit (pinion shim, pinion seal, gaskets, etc) for and free install (worth at least $350) for $500.
#29
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no im not, i know the guy, my dad even towed his car to the shop to have the work done, i have rode in the car and so on. how about you quote me a part number to the cam gears in your neighbors acura TL down the street. i am not 100% sure what size rear end it is. what ever comes in the caprice, i just asked him what size his was when he was asking about mine in me lincoln, and he said 9 inch. i have never looked at chevy prices, but i have for my lincoln, ford racing trac-loc is only 250, then 100-150 for the gears, then 100-150 for the install. that puts it right at the 500 price my boy paid on his chevy.
#30
Bryan,
You continue to amaze me with with your absolute lack of knowledge about what parts and installation thereof costs (ever hear of a a flat rate manual??) Quick review, this post started out with someone asking about a complete DIY ring & pinion install in a 7" Miata rearend; you have done nothing but interject dumb *** comments that are totally lacking in relevance to a Miata R&P install. You clearly have no concept of what parts cost and most 16 year Stangbangers have forgotten more about Ford 8.8 rearends than you know.
WTF has the price of a Ford Traction Lok (new, used, 28 or 31 spline?) bottom of the barrel clutch LSD got to do what your buddy paid for an Eaton (top of the line clutch LSD)? And what does any of this have to do with what a dealer or rear end shop will charge for a quality install (with all the parts needed to do the job right) of a Miata ring & pinion???
If you want to add something positive to this thread, go out and find a Miata dealer or a reputable Miata repair shop that will give a you a written quote on their letterhead to install a 7" Miata ring and pinion for $100. Then post it to this thread...I can't wait to see it.
You continue to amaze me with with your absolute lack of knowledge about what parts and installation thereof costs (ever hear of a a flat rate manual??) Quick review, this post started out with someone asking about a complete DIY ring & pinion install in a 7" Miata rearend; you have done nothing but interject dumb *** comments that are totally lacking in relevance to a Miata R&P install. You clearly have no concept of what parts cost and most 16 year Stangbangers have forgotten more about Ford 8.8 rearends than you know.
WTF has the price of a Ford Traction Lok (new, used, 28 or 31 spline?) bottom of the barrel clutch LSD got to do what your buddy paid for an Eaton (top of the line clutch LSD)? And what does any of this have to do with what a dealer or rear end shop will charge for a quality install (with all the parts needed to do the job right) of a Miata ring & pinion???
If you want to add something positive to this thread, go out and find a Miata dealer or a reputable Miata repair shop that will give a you a written quote on their letterhead to install a 7" Miata ring and pinion for $100. Then post it to this thread...I can't wait to see it.
#31
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Bryan,
You continue to amaze me with with your absolute lack of knowledge about what parts and installation thereof costs (ever hear of a a flat rate manual??) Quick review, this post started out with someone asking about a complete DIY ring & pinion install in a 7" Miata rearend; you have done nothing but interject dumb *** comments that are totally lacking in relevance to a Miata R&P install. You clearly have no concept of what parts cost and most 16 year Stangbangers have forgotten more about Ford 8.8 rearends than you know.
WTF has the price of a Ford Traction Lok (new, used, 28 or 31 spline?) bottom of the barrel clutch LSD got to do what your buddy paid for an Eaton (top of the line clutch LSD)? And what does any of this have to do with what a dealer or rear end shop will charge for a quality install (with all the parts needed to do the job right) of a Miata ring & pinion???
If you want to add something positive to this thread, go out and find a Miata dealer or a reputable Miata repair shop that will give a you a written quote on their letterhead to install a 7" Miata ring and pinion for $100. Then post it to this thread...I can't wait to see it.
You continue to amaze me with with your absolute lack of knowledge about what parts and installation thereof costs (ever hear of a a flat rate manual??) Quick review, this post started out with someone asking about a complete DIY ring & pinion install in a 7" Miata rearend; you have done nothing but interject dumb *** comments that are totally lacking in relevance to a Miata R&P install. You clearly have no concept of what parts cost and most 16 year Stangbangers have forgotten more about Ford 8.8 rearends than you know.
WTF has the price of a Ford Traction Lok (new, used, 28 or 31 spline?) bottom of the barrel clutch LSD got to do what your buddy paid for an Eaton (top of the line clutch LSD)? And what does any of this have to do with what a dealer or rear end shop will charge for a quality install (with all the parts needed to do the job right) of a Miata ring & pinion???
If you want to add something positive to this thread, go out and find a Miata dealer or a reputable Miata repair shop that will give a you a written quote on their letterhead to install a 7" Miata ring and pinion for $100. Then post it to this thread...I can't wait to see it.
#32
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sn95,
i was just replying to you quoteing me
yes i have heard of a flat rate manual. given $100 per labor hour, looks easily doable. i can not see a gear swap taking more than that with the rear end out of the car.
i was just replying to you quoteing me
yes i have heard of a flat rate manual. given $100 per labor hour, looks easily doable. i can not see a gear swap taking more than that with the rear end out of the car.
#33
Bryan,
What's the part number and price for the Miata Eaton posi? How about the part number and price for the Miata gears???? Is that a price for a Ford 8.8 install or a 7" Miata??? Base install prices also do not include:
1. New carrier bearings
2. New pinion bearings
3. New pinion seal
4. New stub shaft seals
The shop will sell those to you at list and charge for installation thereof. Most reputable shops will not a gear install without replacing the bearings and seals because they do not want to see you coming back with complaints of leaks or bearing noise.
What's the part number and price for the Miata Eaton posi? How about the part number and price for the Miata gears???? Is that a price for a Ford 8.8 install or a 7" Miata??? Base install prices also do not include:
1. New carrier bearings
2. New pinion bearings
3. New pinion seal
4. New stub shaft seals
The shop will sell those to you at list and charge for installation thereof. Most reputable shops will not a gear install without replacing the bearings and seals because they do not want to see you coming back with complaints of leaks or bearing noise.
#35
Geez man, let up a little bit.
Anyway, back on topic, I ran into the same problem in my area. I had a 3.636 r/p that I wanted installed in my car. I called about 10 shops locally and only two of them would do the work without taking the entire carrier out of the car. Those that would do the work, gave me an estimate ~$300 to do the benchtop work. And this didn't include replacing all of the seals and other parts needed.
Even though I got a good deal on the r/p, I ended up selling it here in the forum to a local guy in San Diego.
Regarding some of the comments from earlier, I am probably more likely to attempt a turbo rebuild than a differential. Reasoning? If the turbo fails I just go slow. If the rear end fails, I go nowhere and I am stuck with a tow bill and trying to get my car repaired at NEED IT FIXED RIGHT NOW prices. And those are always more expensive.
Also, that article on m.net only talks about replacing the ring gear. It doesn't say anything about replacing a pinion gear, nor how to set the spacing or any of the really particular details of getting this set up correctly. Hopefully some of those links previously posted are more useful.
Anyway, back on topic, I ran into the same problem in my area. I had a 3.636 r/p that I wanted installed in my car. I called about 10 shops locally and only two of them would do the work without taking the entire carrier out of the car. Those that would do the work, gave me an estimate ~$300 to do the benchtop work. And this didn't include replacing all of the seals and other parts needed.
Even though I got a good deal on the r/p, I ended up selling it here in the forum to a local guy in San Diego.
Regarding some of the comments from earlier, I am probably more likely to attempt a turbo rebuild than a differential. Reasoning? If the turbo fails I just go slow. If the rear end fails, I go nowhere and I am stuck with a tow bill and trying to get my car repaired at NEED IT FIXED RIGHT NOW prices. And those are always more expensive.
Also, that article on m.net only talks about replacing the ring gear. It doesn't say anything about replacing a pinion gear, nor how to set the spacing or any of the really particular details of getting this set up correctly. Hopefully some of those links previously posted are more useful.
#37
Geez man, let up a little bit.
Anyway, back on topic, I ran into the same problem in my area. I had a 3.636 r/p that I wanted installed in my car. I called about 10 shops locally and only two of them would do the work without taking the entire carrier out of the car. Those that would do the work, gave me an estimate ~$300 to do the benchtop work. And this didn't include replacing all of the seals and other parts needed.
Regarding some of the comments from earlier, I am probably more likely to attempt a turbo rebuild than a differential. Reasoning? If the turbo fails I just go slow. If the rear end fails, I go nowhere and I am stuck with a tow bill and trying to get my car repaired at NEED IT FIXED RIGHT NOW prices. And those are always more expensive.
Also, that article on m.net only talks about replacing the ring gear. It doesn't say anything about replacing a pinion gear, nor how to set the spacing or any of the really particular details of getting this set up correctly. Hopefully some of those links previously posted are more useful.
Anyway, back on topic, I ran into the same problem in my area. I had a 3.636 r/p that I wanted installed in my car. I called about 10 shops locally and only two of them would do the work without taking the entire carrier out of the car. Those that would do the work, gave me an estimate ~$300 to do the benchtop work. And this didn't include replacing all of the seals and other parts needed.
Regarding some of the comments from earlier, I am probably more likely to attempt a turbo rebuild than a differential. Reasoning? If the turbo fails I just go slow. If the rear end fails, I go nowhere and I am stuck with a tow bill and trying to get my car repaired at NEED IT FIXED RIGHT NOW prices. And those are always more expensive.
Also, that article on m.net only talks about replacing the ring gear. It doesn't say anything about replacing a pinion gear, nor how to set the spacing or any of the really particular details of getting this set up correctly. Hopefully some of those links previously posted are more useful.
Check out the links I listed, they cover pinion removal, pinion depth measurement, pinion bearing installation etc.
I hear where you are coming from with the turbo rebuild analogy; I've got a T-25 sitting in the basement I'm thinking of re-doing (good tech writeup on this site). However, what happens if my DIY turbo grenades violently? Isn't there is always a chance of ingesting compressor wheel pieces into the engine via the intake tract (or turbine wheel pieces back into the cylinder via the exhaust port) and trashing a cylinder??
#39
The shop is called Ring and pinion. They are on 15 and Groesbeck I think? A guy I work with had them do a swap on his Jeep and he recommended them. I'm going to get a quote soon.
I did all the swapping and work, I'm just having them set the thing. I'm hoping it's cheap. If not I will have one of the guys at work help me out. They will do it for free, but I would feel better knowing someone with more experience did it.
I did all the swapping and work, I'm just having them set the thing. I'm hoping it's cheap. If not I will have one of the guys at work help me out. They will do it for free, but I would feel better knowing someone with more experience did it.
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