Relocating the ABS Pump on a 99?
#1
Relocating the ABS Pump on a 99?
Before the winter comes I really hope to have my engine together (the retainers will be made in a week or two...) and when I start to get the Jenveys in place the ABS will be in the way for building the airbox (too little space for the #4 trumpet).
Am I completely daft for thinking about relocating the ABS pump to the passenger footwell?
I'm thinking about simply use five teflon lines to elongate the lines and use proper crimping connectors to elongate the harness. The pump would be bolted to a modified bracket bolted to the "kick panel" (in front of the door).
Hydraulically the brakes would not behave any different I guess (bleeding the lines might be harder) but are there any reference voltages that could be screwed up due to longer cables carrying amps?
Btw, can the pump be oriented in any direction? It might fit better turned around.
For the nerdy reasons the weight would be moved rearward and down...
And I hope no one will object to brake lines in the passenger compartment (Racing tech or road inspection), neat and hidden installation is the key.
Am I completely daft for thinking about relocating the ABS pump to the passenger footwell?
I'm thinking about simply use five teflon lines to elongate the lines and use proper crimping connectors to elongate the harness. The pump would be bolted to a modified bracket bolted to the "kick panel" (in front of the door).
Hydraulically the brakes would not behave any different I guess (bleeding the lines might be harder) but are there any reference voltages that could be screwed up due to longer cables carrying amps?
Btw, can the pump be oriented in any direction? It might fit better turned around.
For the nerdy reasons the weight would be moved rearward and down...
And I hope no one will object to brake lines in the passenger compartment (Racing tech or road inspection), neat and hidden installation is the key.
#4
Well yes, you would need five I just meant the style of line when I said, "a braided line…" I thought you meant an unbraided line, that's why I was a little concerned and said a braided one would be better. I'm sure there is some dumbass person out there using nylon line and compression fittings on the end... You just never know
#5
I checked a bit more carefully on the spare ABS unit i have in a box.
It looks to be reasonable simple to make a new bracket and just make a longer version of the connectors->"relays"->connectors that is sitting cramped under the ABS unit itself. No need to hack the car harness and I can still have an unmodified ABS unit left if I'm forced to revert.
Damn that I did not take pictures.
It looks to be reasonable simple to make a new bracket and just make a longer version of the connectors->"relays"->connectors that is sitting cramped under the ABS unit itself. No need to hack the car harness and I can still have an unmodified ABS unit left if I'm forced to revert.
Damn that I did not take pictures.
#6
I don't think you want to have the ABS control box lower than the calipers.
If you are going to move the control box, then I'd suggest you bend and flare custom hard lines. Teflon/braided lines still flex. I have no idea how extending the wiring harness will affect the sensor readings. If you unravel the loom you may find that you have enough slack to reposition the box without modifying the harness.
I say you ditch the ABS!
If you are going to move the control box, then I'd suggest you bend and flare custom hard lines. Teflon/braided lines still flex. I have no idea how extending the wiring harness will affect the sensor readings. If you unravel the loom you may find that you have enough slack to reposition the box without modifying the harness.
I say you ditch the ABS!
#7
ABS have saved me too many times of the last five years of racing to ditch it, not to mention rain races. I'm not ready to grow up, yet.
I gladly take the 50kg penalty the ABS gives me, it's worth it over a season (about 25% of the races are damp/wet).
Bleeding would sure be harder if it's placed too low. Braided lines would make it easier for the first fitment (I never make things right the first time). But hard lines are a more long term solution, the installation should not need to move/flex.
A big part of the harness comes from the ABS control unit in the same footwell, but there are some lines that originates from the engine bay (feed from the ABS Fuse and some more).
Making a longer connector harness is a bit easier than splicing the harness, but being lazy is seldom the best way
I gladly take the 50kg penalty the ABS gives me, it's worth it over a season (about 25% of the races are damp/wet).
Bleeding would sure be harder if it's placed too low. Braided lines would make it easier for the first fitment (I never make things right the first time). But hard lines are a more long term solution, the installation should not need to move/flex.
A big part of the harness comes from the ABS control unit in the same footwell, but there are some lines that originates from the engine bay (feed from the ABS Fuse and some more).
Making a longer connector harness is a bit easier than splicing the harness, but being lazy is seldom the best way
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post