Rear Pad Recommendations for 1175BBK w/ BP40 Front Pads
#1
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Rear Pad Recommendations for 1175BBK w/ BP40 Front Pads
Some background info on the car:
210whp, Supermiata 11.75 BBK up front w/ Wilwood Dynalite calipers (7420 pad shape), sport rear brakes off an NB2, factory proportioning valve, running 200TW 225/45/15 tires on 9" wheels, front airdam and 59" rear wing for aero, dual duty track/daily (I daily the car out of choice, not necessity, just enjoy driving the thing).
I got the brakes a few weeks ago and am currently running G-Loc GS-1 pads front and rear (advertised 800*F temp ceiling) because that's what they came with. They've been fine in the canyons (can get em hot enough to smell but no noticeable fade) but I know I'm going to fry these pads on track. I was looking at replacing the pads with a G-Loc R12 front/R10 rear combo but am also considering going with Wilwood BP-40s up front. My main point of contention is pad heat capacity but I'm also trying to find a pad that's at least somewhat conservative on rotor wear as far as race pads go.
Has anyone here run a similar setup with Wilwood BP-40 pads up front and if so, what pads did you match them up with in the rear?
210whp, Supermiata 11.75 BBK up front w/ Wilwood Dynalite calipers (7420 pad shape), sport rear brakes off an NB2, factory proportioning valve, running 200TW 225/45/15 tires on 9" wheels, front airdam and 59" rear wing for aero, dual duty track/daily (I daily the car out of choice, not necessity, just enjoy driving the thing).
I got the brakes a few weeks ago and am currently running G-Loc GS-1 pads front and rear (advertised 800*F temp ceiling) because that's what they came with. They've been fine in the canyons (can get em hot enough to smell but no noticeable fade) but I know I'm going to fry these pads on track. I was looking at replacing the pads with a G-Loc R12 front/R10 rear combo but am also considering going with Wilwood BP-40s up front. My main point of contention is pad heat capacity but I'm also trying to find a pad that's at least somewhat conservative on rotor wear as far as race pads go.
Has anyone here run a similar setup with Wilwood BP-40 pads up front and if so, what pads did you match them up with in the rear?
#4
I have a 95 NA8 with a Kraken low mount 6258 on a stock bottom end. I'm using the BX11 Dynalite kit with ND rotors and NA8 rears with the stock prop valve. I recently switched to G-Loc R10F/R8R. My car is a dual duty DD/HPDE car. The R10/R8 have been great on the street and did fine at the track during 20 minute lapping sessions this past weekend. The R10s are extremely dusty but not nearly as loud as I expected them to be especially when they were properly bedded after the first hard session of HPDE. The R10s have good bite even cold and still have modulation from the first stop after leaving the house and only get better as they warm up.
I have never been in a car that felt good with any of the Wilwood BP-xx compounds. Both the 10s and 20s were mushy and never really inspired any confidence, I have never tried the 40s however.
The one upgrade I think would help my setup greatly is an adjustable prop valve as I feel I could get more out of the rears than I am currently. I believe the non-ABS NA8 prop valves are the most rear biased from the factory and my car still locks the fronts well before the rears on 200TW tires with the R10/R8 stagger.
I have never been in a car that felt good with any of the Wilwood BP-xx compounds. Both the 10s and 20s were mushy and never really inspired any confidence, I have never tried the 40s however.
The one upgrade I think would help my setup greatly is an adjustable prop valve as I feel I could get more out of the rears than I am currently. I believe the non-ABS NA8 prop valves are the most rear biased from the factory and my car still locks the fronts well before the rears on 200TW tires with the R10/R8 stagger.
#6
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Killer. Appreciate the feedback, guys. Wouldn't mind going G-Loc given 949 is right down the road from me. Glad to hear the R10/R8 combo is up to snuff for turbo track use.
Dyladjent, I wonder if R10/R10 on your setup would be the ticket to nailing the bias. Although at that point I guess it'd already be worth buying an adjustable prop valve anyway...
Dyladjent, I wonder if R10/R10 on your setup would be the ticket to nailing the bias. Although at that point I guess it'd already be worth buying an adjustable prop valve anyway...
#7
Killer. Appreciate the feedback, guys. Wouldn't mind going G-Loc given 949 is right down the road from me. Glad to hear the R10/R8 combo is up to snuff for turbo track use.
Dyladjent, I wonder if R10/R10 on your setup would be the ticket to nailing the bias. Although at that point I guess it'd already be worth buying an adjustable prop valve anyway...
Dyladjent, I wonder if R10/R10 on your setup would be the ticket to nailing the bias. Although at that point I guess it'd already be worth buying an adjustable prop valve anyway...
#12
If you are tempted to go for the Gloc12 pad up front, be prepared for some serious cleaning of the wheels after every event. Glocs are my pad of choice, but the 12s have a bad dusting problem (the 10/8s that I now use on the street/track days are fine), I killed some wheels by neglecting that task, structurally fine but a close look and they are covered in a thick deposit that is very difficult to remove - ugly!.
#13
I'm running R12 front (7420 size) and R10 rear (1.8 Base Caliper Size) on Sport rotors w/ Wilwood Prop.
Other than the front's being a little loud on the street at times, I don't really have any issues with them. I also freely admit I don't have any other experience on a big brake setup like this to compare it to. Wouldn't mind experimenting with an R10 front in the future, but it'll be a year or two before I wear through these monster sized pads.
Other than the front's being a little loud on the street at times, I don't really have any issues with them. I also freely admit I don't have any other experience on a big brake setup like this to compare it to. Wouldn't mind experimenting with an R10 front in the future, but it'll be a year or two before I wear through these monster sized pads.
#14
There is a lot of dust but it doesn’t seem to damage the wheels even after leaving it for a month and it cleans off pretty easily.
Sometimes it will have a bit of a squeak at low speed braking but the rotors are wearing very nicely.
#16
I also had 800/500 springs which play a role - what spring rates do you have?
Torsen rear?
Depending on the above a bit, you're going to have a hard time not locking up the rears... r12 front and r8 rear would be my recommendation (subject to spring rate/lsd info)
#17
Local guy has Wilwood 4 piston fronts and stock NA rears... He said he was thinking of selling his Wilwoods and going back to a stock type front setup because it was to easy to lock the fronts and he had no pedal modulation. He had been playing with pad compounds to the point he was ravaging front pads in 1 weekend to try to keep them manageable vs. the rears. I said "well a $50 prop valve will solve at least 50% of that, and a $100 1" master cylinder will solve the modulation issue and I have a flair tool, tubing bender and a bunch of extra tubing and flair nuts we can fix your **** properly instead of downgrading your brakes and you will then be able to run proper compounds".
I have a setup similar to your setup(bro-fab Afco's with 7420 pads, real sport rears) and have a set of R12/R8's to go on it with a Wilwood prop valve and Honed booster delete and a 7/8 master(recommended for the booster delete). If I was running a booster I would run at least a 1" master with our, pretty similar, brake setups.
#18
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Putting together all the input I've taken in from this post, I think my starting point will look like this:
-R12F/R10R
-Adjustable prop valve
-Supermiata brake ducts once they land
Thanks you all your input!
#20
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That's a pretty slick setup right there. I'll probably snag the Napp bracket as well with the prop valve from Supermiata.
I'll probably run with my current master cylinder setup for the time being and just get used to how the new pads act and play with the prop valve. Might consider the booster delete down the road, though, and just stick with my 7/8". I don't have tons to brag about but leg strength isn't an issue for me so the pros of no booster may outweigh the cons.
I'll probably run with my current master cylinder setup for the time being and just get used to how the new pads act and play with the prop valve. Might consider the booster delete down the road, though, and just stick with my 7/8". I don't have tons to brag about but leg strength isn't an issue for me so the pros of no booster may outweigh the cons.