Pulled trans - maybe didn't have to?
#1
Pulled trans - maybe didn't have to?
The car: '90 chassis and trans, '05 MSM engine
Relevant new parts: 949 1.8 organic + light FW, slave, 949 clutch flexi-line
Symptom: clutch will not disengage/shift into gear when running. Observed clutch fork slop fore and aft, as well as vertically.
Observations:
Bled clutch. More bleeding of clutch. Then we bled the clutch. Ultimately we did it again. There's no bubbles, Georgio.
Seemed like the PP wasn't pressing against the TOB at all, thus the massive slop in the fork. Though, there was some pedal feel, but inconsistent. The "resting" location for the fork was much further toward the back of the car as compared to this example (this one rests much more compressed than mine):
This would mean there's almost zero room for travel, but maybe it doesn't take much?
Adding to the inconsistency, pumping the pedal sometimes resulted in a loud CLICK CLICK CLICK. Slowing things down, the click was occurring after about a .5" release of the pedal. Weird.
Being this thing felt completely broken, the trans was pulled. I'm not confident the correct decision was made.
The fork spring was possibly off the pivot ball. I feel like it may have clicked back into place the first time I started to test out the motion in the ocean. Could also be me trying to justify the trans pull.
I can see through the fingers on the PP to see that "TRANS SIDE", written on clutch is facing me -- thank you 949 for that. So, that half seems assembled properly.
Came inside, exhausted. Googled my *** off. Then I found this post, which seemed to ring true (Keith at FM):
ClubRoadster.net - View Single Post - Flyin' Miata Happy Meal not Disengaging
Is the 949 setup a similar situation? More pedal travel required to hit that last bit of stroke to push the heavy PP springs in? Just needed to adjust the pedal?
Bonus question: I'm not 100% sure that the appropriate thread sealer was used on the FW bolts. But, I see no leakage. Pull it and redo?
I'm not sure. I'd like some help before I make any further silly, laborious decisions.
Relevant new parts: 949 1.8 organic + light FW, slave, 949 clutch flexi-line
Symptom: clutch will not disengage/shift into gear when running. Observed clutch fork slop fore and aft, as well as vertically.
Observations:
Bled clutch. More bleeding of clutch. Then we bled the clutch. Ultimately we did it again. There's no bubbles, Georgio.
Seemed like the PP wasn't pressing against the TOB at all, thus the massive slop in the fork. Though, there was some pedal feel, but inconsistent. The "resting" location for the fork was much further toward the back of the car as compared to this example (this one rests much more compressed than mine):
This would mean there's almost zero room for travel, but maybe it doesn't take much?
Adding to the inconsistency, pumping the pedal sometimes resulted in a loud CLICK CLICK CLICK. Slowing things down, the click was occurring after about a .5" release of the pedal. Weird.
Being this thing felt completely broken, the trans was pulled. I'm not confident the correct decision was made.
The fork spring was possibly off the pivot ball. I feel like it may have clicked back into place the first time I started to test out the motion in the ocean. Could also be me trying to justify the trans pull.
I can see through the fingers on the PP to see that "TRANS SIDE", written on clutch is facing me -- thank you 949 for that. So, that half seems assembled properly.
Came inside, exhausted. Googled my *** off. Then I found this post, which seemed to ring true (Keith at FM):
ClubRoadster.net - View Single Post - Flyin' Miata Happy Meal not Disengaging
Is the 949 setup a similar situation? More pedal travel required to hit that last bit of stroke to push the heavy PP springs in? Just needed to adjust the pedal?
Bonus question: I'm not 100% sure that the appropriate thread sealer was used on the FW bolts. But, I see no leakage. Pull it and redo?
I'm not sure. I'd like some help before I make any further silly, laborious decisions.
#2
That problem is supposedly specific to the FM clutch. You could have a defective PP with the same problem, but I think that would make you the only one.
Have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal? I had about an inch and a half of play in the rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder.
Have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal? I had about an inch and a half of play in the rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder.
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