OBX Helical LSD
#62
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,729
Total Cats: 4,126
1995
Carrier
Mazda Miata MX5 NO ALUM. COVER, GEARS ONLY $250 Best Foreign Auto Salvage USA-PA(Aliquippa) E-mail 1-800-370-6002
1996
Carrier
Mazda Miata MX5GOOD LOCKERA4879$550Beasley Foreign Parts, Inc. USA-MI(Holly) E-mail 1-248-634-8681
Carrier
Mazda Miata MX5 NO ALUM. COVER, GEARS ONLY $250 Best Foreign Auto Salvage USA-PA(Aliquippa) E-mail 1-800-370-6002
1996
Carrier
Mazda Miata MX5GOOD LOCKERA4879$550Beasley Foreign Parts, Inc. USA-MI(Holly) E-mail 1-248-634-8681
#63
So far so good after one track day, it survived a full days abuse, no odd noises and operates smooth. It wasn't my car, but I did get to drive it for a few laps, and my opinion is it's very similar to the oem unit, the track was a new configuration and i didn't have my miata with to actually do a back to back comparison.
Bottom line is, it works as an lsd, and it didn't fail in any manner.
Bottom line is, it works as an lsd, and it didn't fail in any manner.
#65
So far so good after one track day, it survived a full days abuse, no odd noises and operates smooth. It wasn't my car, but I did get to drive it for a few laps, and my opinion is it's very similar to the oem unit, the track was a new configuration and i didn't have my miata with to actually do a back to back comparison.
Bottom line is, it works as an lsd, and it didn't fail in any manner.
Bottom line is, it works as an lsd, and it didn't fail in any manner.
#70
Here are a few neat reads on the obx diffs:
http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=520556
http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=520556
#71
I just read this one...
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/.../page__st__180
Lots of really good info in there.
Also this one. I'll be doing this to my casing as well...
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=520556
In the first link they discover that a lot of the times the gears are installed the wrong way forcing the gears to the middle under accel instead of the outer side of the casing. This causes huge force to be put on the washers.
So the 3 (or 4 if you're ---- like me) things to do.
1)replace washers
2)replace bolts
3)ensure the gears are installed the correct way
4)optional... clean all the burrs and glass bead the casing. I may even cryo the gears.
I ordered all the stuff i need including the diff.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/.../page__st__180
Lots of really good info in there.
Also this one. I'll be doing this to my casing as well...
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=520556
In the first link they discover that a lot of the times the gears are installed the wrong way forcing the gears to the middle under accel instead of the outer side of the casing. This causes huge force to be put on the washers.
So the 3 (or 4 if you're ---- like me) things to do.
1)replace washers
2)replace bolts
3)ensure the gears are installed the correct way
4)optional... clean all the burrs and glass bead the casing. I may even cryo the gears.
I ordered all the stuff i need including the diff.
#74
OK after reading through that new stuff, I just tore open the obx diff again. I flipped the gears by taking the ones from the bottom and putting them on top. I'm going to trust that internet forum in that these units sometimes are assembled backwards.
Last edited by dustinb; 04-26-2011 at 12:27 AM.
#76
Yeah no problem. Seems there are a bunch of guys running this in the Nissan R200 diff with 350ft'lbs and doing track days with no issues. And Honda guys with 600whp drag launching on them.
As much as it pains me to run an OBX product... the forums back it up as a decent budget diff if the few things I listed are corrected.
Dustin, were yours backwards?
The best way to really check it is to orient the diff as though it is sitting in the housing and mentally "turn" the input shafts. If you turn it that way, do the gears move outwards? OR inwards? You want outwards. And approx .090 of compression on the washers. That, along with 12.9 bolts should give you a fairly clunk free and good diff.
As much as it pains me to run an OBX product... the forums back it up as a decent budget diff if the few things I listed are corrected.
Dustin, were yours backwards?
The best way to really check it is to orient the diff as though it is sitting in the housing and mentally "turn" the input shafts. If you turn it that way, do the gears move outwards? OR inwards? You want outwards. And approx .090 of compression on the washers. That, along with 12.9 bolts should give you a fairly clunk free and good diff.
#77
Cpt. Slow
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
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Ah, so there is two sets of gears, one left hand helix, one right, and the left hand little gears and right hand middle gear is supposed to be on top when looking at it with the above orientation?