When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Any word on a flywheel that would support a twin disc clutch setup?
That's going to be such a small demand item you are going to have to design one yourself and have it built, if at all. That's my guess. I'm running 330whp on the stock BMW clutch currently and it's not slipping. There are higher horse clutch and pressure plate options at around $650 for those cars that will fit. If you are just looking to reduce rotating mass then you will need to go full custom. And I would frankly spend that money on the driveshaft first. There's a whole lot of mass there.
Any word on a flywheel that would support a twin disc clutch setup?
I was running like 375whp and 375wtq on the ACT clutch kit that David recommended and it never slipped at those levels. Shifted smooth and fast, not really a need for dual clutch that I could see.
We actually have a completed twin disc setup here for a K to ZF 5-speed. Just needs to be tested. But like ooja3k said, the ACT clutch holds plenty of power. That's what we're running on our 523whp car too.
Sixshooter - we just successfully tested a thinner driveshaft that's 5 lbs lighter and not more expensive. It will be available soon. Otherwise a $900+ aluminum shaft is also an option but I think that's more than most want to pay for a driveshaft.
__________________ KPower Industries
Home of the original KMiata Swap
We actually have a completed twin disc setup here for a K to ZF 5-speed. Just needs to be tested. But like ooja3k said, the ACT clutch holds plenty of power. That's what we're running on our 523whp car too.
Sixshooter - we just successfully tested a thinner driveshaft that's 5 lbs lighter and not more expensive. It will be available soon. Otherwise a $900+ aluminum shaft is also an option but I think that's more than most want to pay for a driveshaft.
Twin disc isn't necessarily about power holding. But you can run a smaller diameter disc, and if you get a lightweight flywheel then shifting and reving is awesome.
The 949 twin disc for the BP is super light, and probably my favorite thing that I ever did to the car.
Twin disc isn't necessarily about power holding. But you can run a smaller diameter disc, and if you get a lightweight flywheel then shifting and reving is awesome.
The 949 twin disc for the BP is super light, and probably my favorite thing that I ever did to the car.
That's going to be such a small demand item you are going to have to design one yourself and have it built, if at all. That's my guess. I'm running 330whp on the stock BMW clutch currently and it's not slipping. There are higher horse clutch and pressure plate options at around $650 for those cars that will fit. If you are just looking to reduce rotating mass then you will need to go full custom. And I would frankly spend that money on the driveshaft first. There's a whole lot of mass there.
Originally Posted by ooja3k
I was running like 375whp and 375wtq on the ACT clutch kit that David recommended and it never slipped at those levels. Shifted smooth and fast, not really a need for dual clutch that I could see.
My K made over 500whp in the civic it came from and now is being backed by an even larger turbo. I'm hoping the ACT stage 5 is going to be enough to hold but I'm expecting almost 600ftlb so I'm not super confident.
Originally Posted by KMiata
We actually have a completed twin disc setup here for a K to ZF 5-speed. Just needs to be tested. But like ooja3k said, the ACT clutch holds plenty of power. That's what we're running on our 523whp car too.
Sixshooter - we just successfully tested a thinner driveshaft that's 5 lbs lighter and not more expensive. It will be available soon. Otherwise a $900+ aluminum shaft is also an option but I think that's more than most want to pay for a driveshaft.
Good to hear about the twin disk setup, I'm going to run the ACT setup since its already in the car and ready to go but I'd like to have a backup plan when its time to test the internals strength of the motor
Also I may contact you about some wiring in the future. The shop building my new turbo manifold is a little bit weary on the wiring since they haven't done a K or Miata platform and I can say I don't trust myself to wire the car up right lol
ZF 6-speed kits are back in stock! Pair it with our diff mount for an easy PPF delete and it's the ultimate bolt-in drivetrain upgrade. Fancy new product photos finally got done this weekend too:
__________________ KPower Industries
Home of the original KMiata Swap
Public service announcement for people doing this swap. It will be necessary to connect your ground strap that would normally bolt to the rear of the ppf directly to the engine or transmission. Failure to do so may cause wires critical to operation of the automobile to become warm and melty while driving around at MATG. Like a grilled cheese sandwich. This condition may also render certain functions on your MS3 Basic inoperable.
Public service announcement for people doing this swap. It will be necessary to connect your ground strap that would normally bolt to the rear of the ppf directly to the engine or transmission. Failure to do so may cause wires critical to operation of the automobile to become warm and melty while driving around at MATG. Like a grilled cheese sandwich. This condition may also render certain functions on your MS3 Basic inoperable.
That is all.
OH MAN. So not even a reinforced 0 gauge welding wire from battery to chassis, and chassis to engine would suffice? When in doubt, direct ground to battery; check.
That's good to know. I remember how much trouble you where having with the fans and A/C and cluster. :(
Since my PPF goes to the transmission crossmember I connected the front of the PPF to the transmission with a 12in 4 gauge battery cable from the parts store. I was more concerned with mounting the front of the PPF than anything else originally and overlooked it.
As of this year, we prefer running a cable from the battery right to the engine block. It seems to eliminate any weird grounding issues on these old cars. I suspect it's more necessary with a K series though, as they are really particular about grounds.
__________________ KPower Industries
Home of the original KMiata Swap