Has anyone rebuild a 6 speed?
#1
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Has anyone rebuild a 6 speed?
I just picked one up that needs a rebuild from a forum member. Does anyone know where to get a rebuild kit? I googled that crap but couldn't find anything. I plan on documenting it here. Or I guess i could be cool and make a build thread though. Although there is a ton of **** i have not documented. Either way. Someone send me a link for a rebuild kit. Kthnxbai.
#2
You will probly have to buy the parts you need once you have it apart. Someone can send you a link to the 6spd service manual pdf. Just figure out what parts you need, then look up the part numbers in the manual, then call/email finishline to order them. That is pretty much the play by play you need to follow.
#4
Just FYI, I found this source when I was searching for myself - no affiliation
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...rhaul_kit.html
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...rhaul_kit.html
#5
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Awesome awesome link. Thank you. Anyways I am going to start documentation of what i am doing. Good first post. Now go make an intro thread.
Anyways. I started with this.
It needs a rebuild. I was told 3rd gear synchro is probably bad and it gets stuck going into reverse sometimes.
I took down the extension housing and didn't really document it. It is very straight forward if you follow the FSM. This is what you will end up with.
Next you remove the snap ring holding on 6th gear and the synchros and such. This is the method used in the FSM.
Watch out. This little **** will shoot off quick fast and in a hurry. Measure then put on the snap ring sheet. I used tape so it wouldn't float away.
This is what it looks like once you find where it shot to.
Next you remove the interior shift lever and interlock sleeve.
Now we have the substitute for SST 49 N017 2A1. A harmonic balancer puller does this job well, better for this than pulling harmonic balancers if you ask me. I covered it with a rag so pieces of the synchronizer clutch would not fly everywhere.
The syncro clutch hub is bagged in a smaller bag, then there are the synchro (the brass thing), the syncro ring (the silver ring), and then the shift fork. These are all going into the bag labeled 6th gear.
6th gear, needle bearings and the washer. The washer is magnetized. Also, there is a small pin on the shaft where the washer locks on to. DO NOT LEAVE THAT THERE. Put it in your 6th gear bag or you will lose it. I searched for that bastard as long as I did the magical flying snap ring.
My 6 speed sans 6th gear.
Anyways. I started with this.
It needs a rebuild. I was told 3rd gear synchro is probably bad and it gets stuck going into reverse sometimes.
I took down the extension housing and didn't really document it. It is very straight forward if you follow the FSM. This is what you will end up with.
Next you remove the snap ring holding on 6th gear and the synchros and such. This is the method used in the FSM.
Watch out. This little **** will shoot off quick fast and in a hurry. Measure then put on the snap ring sheet. I used tape so it wouldn't float away.
This is what it looks like once you find where it shot to.
Next you remove the interior shift lever and interlock sleeve.
Now we have the substitute for SST 49 N017 2A1. A harmonic balancer puller does this job well, better for this than pulling harmonic balancers if you ask me. I covered it with a rag so pieces of the synchronizer clutch would not fly everywhere.
The syncro clutch hub is bagged in a smaller bag, then there are the synchro (the brass thing), the syncro ring (the silver ring), and then the shift fork. These are all going into the bag labeled 6th gear.
6th gear, needle bearings and the washer. The washer is magnetized. Also, there is a small pin on the shaft where the washer locks on to. DO NOT LEAVE THAT THERE. Put it in your 6th gear bag or you will lose it. I searched for that bastard as long as I did the magical flying snap ring.
My 6 speed sans 6th gear.
Last edited by chicksdigmiatas; 09-26-2010 at 11:28 AM.
#7
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I plan to. I am actually kind of stoked, I found out the base auto hobby shop has a press I can use for a dollar an hour. Now all I have to do is find substitutes for the other SST's that are used and I am done worrying about getting all the tools and worrying about how i am going to get this done. Honestly, the thing that bothered me the most was getting access to a press.
#10
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Trying to start where I left off.
Remove this bearing cap. There is a peg and snap ring to remove under this.
Close up of said snap ring and peg. Snap ring on the right. This needs to be replaced after removal. Clearly. If I have to paint shop that for you I will. Remove that peg as well.
One of these on the side and bottom. Remove both. There is a spring and ball in there. The bag marked spring and detent *****, put this crap in there. The FSM details the bags to make. You will probably make more though. Something worth noting here. The FSM says theses are T30's, but mine were T40's. Don't strip your crap. One was a bitch to remove after I reamed it out.
Remove this plug in the bellhousing. 10mm hex.
Remove shift rod. 2 ***** are supposed to fall out. Guess how many did? None. Failboat. I found one of them later.
Start removing the case. 9 12mm bolts.
After some prying your case is gone and you have some really awesome gears showing. More to come.
Remove this bearing cap. There is a peg and snap ring to remove under this.
Close up of said snap ring and peg. Snap ring on the right. This needs to be replaced after removal. Clearly. If I have to paint shop that for you I will. Remove that peg as well.
One of these on the side and bottom. Remove both. There is a spring and ball in there. The bag marked spring and detent *****, put this crap in there. The FSM details the bags to make. You will probably make more though. Something worth noting here. The FSM says theses are T30's, but mine were T40's. Don't strip your crap. One was a bitch to remove after I reamed it out.
Remove this plug in the bellhousing. 10mm hex.
Remove shift rod. 2 ***** are supposed to fall out. Guess how many did? None. Failboat. I found one of them later.
Start removing the case. 9 12mm bolts.
After some prying your case is gone and you have some really awesome gears showing. More to come.
Last edited by chicksdigmiatas; 09-26-2010 at 11:28 AM.
#12
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Yay more *****!
Remove the front cover. Pry off through the shift fork hole.
After this, remove the 2 snap rings so that the 2 shafts can not so gently slide (be hammered) out.
Take a piece of wood. I used one that was approx 1.25 x 1.25 and hammered the **** out of the countershaft. Both main and contershaft will come out along with rods and shift forks. The input shaft will separate from the main shaft.
So you get something like this.
And this. Next we measure the shift forks and the selectors on the shaft. There is 1/2 3/4 5/R and 6th.
Measure the fork where it engages the selector clutch hub.
Now measure the selector clutch hub.
All my stuff was within spec. It would shift to reverse, but not go sometimes I was told. I was expecting a problem with the 5/R fork but there wasn't. I looked at the selector thing on the trans too, and it looked fine. I have to disassemble the countershaft to investigate 3rd gear syncro. Also, I saw a rough spot on the 3/4 shift fork where it engages the selector hub. Maybe just an imperfection on the metal.
Another thing. This is the first tranny I have ever taken apart with out a sledge hammer. I have really no clue what I am doing. So if anyone has guidance let me know.
Remove the front cover. Pry off through the shift fork hole.
After this, remove the 2 snap rings so that the 2 shafts can not so gently slide (be hammered) out.
Take a piece of wood. I used one that was approx 1.25 x 1.25 and hammered the **** out of the countershaft. Both main and contershaft will come out along with rods and shift forks. The input shaft will separate from the main shaft.
So you get something like this.
And this. Next we measure the shift forks and the selectors on the shaft. There is 1/2 3/4 5/R and 6th.
Measure the fork where it engages the selector clutch hub.
Now measure the selector clutch hub.
All my stuff was within spec. It would shift to reverse, but not go sometimes I was told. I was expecting a problem with the 5/R fork but there wasn't. I looked at the selector thing on the trans too, and it looked fine. I have to disassemble the countershaft to investigate 3rd gear syncro. Also, I saw a rough spot on the 3/4 shift fork where it engages the selector hub. Maybe just an imperfection on the metal.
Another thing. This is the first tranny I have ever taken apart with out a sledge hammer. I have really no clue what I am doing. So if anyone has guidance let me know.
Last edited by chicksdigmiatas; 09-26-2010 at 11:29 AM.
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