Front end hit, Tweaked strut tower, totalled?
05-01-2017, 05:06 PM
#1
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Location: Marysville, Ohio
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Front end hit, Tweaked strut tower, totalled?
Hey homeys
Had my throttle stick wide open at an autocross this past weekend. Cause was an accelerator pedal cover installed by the previous owner that I neglected to remove (stock pedals are fine bro) which stuck the carpet at WOT.
So I drove the thing home and it felt fine. no pulling, drove straight etc. like before the crash
However... upon closer inspection the LF strut tower appears higher and at a different angle than RF. Also LF ride height (measure at pinch weld) was found to be 3/4" lower than RF.
So my question: is there any feasible repair? I don't know jack about body/frame work
(will post pics detailed pics if this doesn't get shot down immediately
)
Had my throttle stick wide open at an autocross this past weekend. Cause was an accelerator pedal cover installed by the previous owner that I neglected to remove (stock pedals are fine bro) which stuck the carpet at WOT.
So I drove the thing home and it felt fine. no pulling, drove straight etc. like before the crash
However... upon closer inspection the LF strut tower appears higher and at a different angle than RF. Also LF ride height (measure at pinch weld) was found to be 3/4" lower than RF.
So my question: is there any feasible repair? I don't know jack about body/frame work
(will post pics detailed pics if this doesn't get shot down immediately
)
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05-01-2017, 05:49 PM
#3
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The difference in ride height was not there beforehand. Caster was at 5° even on both sides as well. Fairly confident it isn't now just looking but I will confirm this within the next few days on an alignment rack.
It is strange the car drives totally normal still.
It is strange the car drives totally normal still.
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05-01-2017, 06:31 PM
#4
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Im in a very similar situation. The insurance company will total the car for absolute sure, no question.
Now, if you don't care about a salvage title and you can do the labor yourself, you will need to have it up on a frame rack to be pulled back into shape. It will not be as strong as before, but getting the frame pulled is only $350-$500. Add on all the body panels, lights, or anything else damaged and if that's less than what insurance will pay, you can get back in to your Miata with a little extra cash in your pocket. I removed the entire front clip plus the motor and trans to get my frame pulled.
If you don't want a salvage title it will be much easier for you to buy another Miata with the settlement and swap over any parts from your wreck. I've done this as well. Time consuming if you have a lot of goodies to swap over.
Now, if you don't care about a salvage title and you can do the labor yourself, you will need to have it up on a frame rack to be pulled back into shape. It will not be as strong as before, but getting the frame pulled is only $350-$500. Add on all the body panels, lights, or anything else damaged and if that's less than what insurance will pay, you can get back in to your Miata with a little extra cash in your pocket. I removed the entire front clip plus the motor and trans to get my frame pulled.
If you don't want a salvage title it will be much easier for you to buy another Miata with the settlement and swap over any parts from your wreck. I've done this as well. Time consuming if you have a lot of goodies to swap over.
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05-01-2017, 07:47 PM
#5
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Im in a very similar situation. The insurance company will total the car for absolute sure, no question.
Now, if you don't care about a salvage title and you can do the labor yourself, you will need to have it up on a frame rack to be pulled back into shape. It will not be as strong as before, but getting the frame pulled is only $350-$500. Add on all the body panels, lights, or anything else damaged and if that's less than what insurance will pay, you can get back in to your Miata with a little extra cash in your pocket. I removed the entire front clip plus the motor and trans to get my frame pulled.
If you don't want a salvage title it will be much easier for you to buy another Miata with the settlement and swap over any parts from your wreck. I've done this as well. Time consuming if you have a lot of goodies to swap over.
Now, if you don't care about a salvage title and you can do the labor yourself, you will need to have it up on a frame rack to be pulled back into shape. It will not be as strong as before, but getting the frame pulled is only $350-$500. Add on all the body panels, lights, or anything else damaged and if that's less than what insurance will pay, you can get back in to your Miata with a little extra cash in your pocket. I removed the entire front clip plus the motor and trans to get my frame pulled.
If you don't want a salvage title it will be much easier for you to buy another Miata with the settlement and swap over any parts from your wreck. I've done this as well. Time consuming if you have a lot of goodies to swap over.
Probably would be wisest to pick up a shell and swap everything in. I do have the car on a DIYPNP but if I needed the harness I can just swap that over if necessary if I get a different-harnessed shell.
I'd think it would be possible to maintain rigidity (even improve it) by doing reinforcements to the repair if the frame was pulled
.
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05-01-2017, 09:10 PM
#7
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the autocross took place at Circleville raceway park in Ohio which mainly hosts go kart racing, very small tight track. You can see where the edge of the track is in the picture. barely 6 feet of runoff if that.
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05-02-2017, 04:28 PM
#9
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From :50-:53 is the corner where i crashed but he's traveling in the opposite direction. This is before they added the 'barrier'.
Found another local miata I'm going to attempt trading my motorcycle for today. Maybe one day I'll have the funds/time to put this car on a trailer and have it pulled out and reinforced. And once more for good measure THE STOCK GAS PEDAL IS FINE!!! if you absolutely have to modify it don't be dumb like me and make sure it absolutely cannot catch on the carpet everrrrr
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05-03-2017, 05:24 PM
#10
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thanks for the info. Didn't realize getting the frame pulled isn't super expensive. Insurance covering it is out of the question for me and the car already has a salvage title. What exactly did you remove for the front clip? Motor, trans, fenders, etc. of course but did you pull the subframes too? I guess I'll be getting in contact with my local frame shop.
Probably would be wisest to pick up a shell and swap everything in. I do have the car on a DIYPNP but if I needed the harness I can just swap that over if necessary if I get a different-harnessed shell.
I'd think it would be possible to maintain rigidity (even improve it) by doing reinforcements to the repair if the frame was pulled.
Probably would be wisest to pick up a shell and swap everything in. I do have the car on a DIYPNP but if I needed the harness I can just swap that over if necessary if I get a different-harnessed shell.
I'd think it would be possible to maintain rigidity (even improve it) by doing reinforcements to the repair if the frame was pulled
.I agree some bracing would be peace of mind but if this is a car just for motorsport... probably not worth it. I think if you were using this exclusively as a autoX car, you woudn't need to do anything except make sure your suspension is straight.
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