Clutch Upgrade from ACT Xtreme?
#1
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I have an ACT Xtreme clutch with the organic sprung disk. I think it might be going out, not sure, but I bought it 8 or so years ago used.
What clutch can I buy that has more torque capacity than this one? Is there anything stronger than this clutch with an organic disk? If I swap the organic disk for a puck disk, would that improve the torque capacity?
What clutch can I buy that has more torque capacity than this one? Is there anything stronger than this clutch with an organic disk? If I swap the organic disk for a puck disk, would that improve the torque capacity?
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Looks like I could potentially just swap to a puck disk and keep my PP and gain torque capacity?
#6
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Well, looks like I'm NOT running the 405 ft*lb version, that one has a puck clutch. Mine has an organic disk. But the Extreme version I see online now with an organic disk has a black pressure plate, mine is yellow like the 405 ft*lb version with the puck clutch. So not sure what mine is rated for.
Looks like I could potentially just swap to a puck disk and keep my PP and gain torque capacity?
Looks like I could potentially just swap to a puck disk and keep my PP and gain torque capacity?
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I'm not exactly sure how much torque you plan on putting down but I can't imagine a 6 puck rated for 405 ft/lbs is going to be fun to drive. A FM2 is rated for 353 ft/lbs which is a metric fuckload of torque and it is easily daily driveable even in relatively heavy traffic. It's what I run.
I forgot about the FM2. Looks like I need to find out what my clutch is actually rated at to compare.
You run the FM2, how do you like it? Any problems with it?
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I've run the act six puck for 10+ years and it wasn't too bad for street driving.
Most people who get in the car stall the **** out of it though, so maybe I'm just used to it.
It's not a clutch which is friendly towards modulation. When it engages, it is all the way on. Also, noise.
Most people who get in the car stall the **** out of it though, so maybe I'm just used to it.
It's not a clutch which is friendly towards modulation. When it engages, it is all the way on. Also, noise.
#12
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Short answer, not really. Once it grabs, that's it.
Long answer is that since it's a sprung clutch, it will give a little as it engages, which means that you can get the car off the line quicker than you'd expect if your rpms are just right. A little faster and it spins like mad. A little slower and it bogs. It's not hard once you get the hang of it.
Long answer is that since it's a sprung clutch, it will give a little as it engages, which means that you can get the car off the line quicker than you'd expect if your rpms are just right. A little faster and it spins like mad. A little slower and it bogs. It's not hard once you get the hang of it.
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Short answer, not really. Once it grabs, that's it.
Long answer is that since it's a sprung clutch, it will give a little as it engages, which means that you can get the car off the line quicker than you'd expect if your rpms are just right. A little faster and it spins like mad. A little slower and it bogs. It's not hard once you get the hang of it.
Long answer is that since it's a sprung clutch, it will give a little as it engages, which means that you can get the car off the line quicker than you'd expect if your rpms are just right. A little faster and it spins like mad. A little slower and it bogs. It's not hard once you get the hang of it.
#16
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Good to know. I'm swapping out a clutch line, and maybe even the master cylinder again if that doesn't fix it. If nothing else gets the clutch to work right when hot I'm going to assume something is going on with the clutch and probably replace it. Thus this thread. I asked FM what the highest HP miata there FM level 2 was installed in too, that should help shed some light on what there's is actually capable of (not just rated to).