Broken Differential mounts
#1
Broken Differential mounts
Hi,
I have abit of a problem, both of my main differential mounts going through the bushing is broken. They both snapped (the nut) when they got removed, (Please no comments saying you should have used heat and so on, it was done...)
What are my options here? Are they welded on stock? Can I cut it out, drill a whole and put a nut on the back?
Thanks,
I have abit of a problem, both of my main differential mounts going through the bushing is broken. They both snapped (the nut) when they got removed, (Please no comments saying you should have used heat and so on, it was done...)
What are my options here? Are they welded on stock? Can I cut it out, drill a whole and put a nut on the back?
Thanks,
#9
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,497
Total Cats: 6,905
Yup, that subframe is coming out.
Be careful while unbolting it from the body, lots of PB Blaster and heat, or your next thread will be titled "I accidentally pulled a couple of the studs which the rear subframe attaches to out of the body," along with this photo:
Once you've done that, the next repair involves cutting the car in half and then welding it back together:
Be careful while unbolting it from the body, lots of PB Blaster and heat, or your next thread will be titled "I accidentally pulled a couple of the studs which the rear subframe attaches to out of the body," along with this photo:
Once you've done that, the next repair involves cutting the car in half and then welding it back together:
#12
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,497
Total Cats: 6,905
The problem here is that high-strength bolts of this length are almost never fully-threaded.
Honestly, there's only one good solution here. Drop the subframe, drill out the old stud, and have a pair of new bolts welded in.
Take the opportunity to have the subframe sandblasted and then powder-coated while it's out. You'll (hopefully) never have another opportunity.
Honestly, there's only one good solution here. Drop the subframe, drill out the old stud, and have a pair of new bolts welded in.
Take the opportunity to have the subframe sandblasted and then powder-coated while it's out. You'll (hopefully) never have another opportunity.
#13
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,104
Welding in studs is a terrible idea. You have to drill the old stud out accurately enough to install a new bolt in EXACTLY the same place, twice, because if you mess up either one, it throws all the driveline angles off and the car will vibrate and rattle for all eternity.
Alternatively, while you have the old subframe out, you can throw it in the trash, get another one for $100 or so, and ensure that the studs are in the right place.
You would be a fool to attempt the former option when the latter is available.
Alternatively, while you have the old subframe out, you can throw it in the trash, get another one for $100 or so, and ensure that the studs are in the right place.
You would be a fool to attempt the former option when the latter is available.
#14
Welding in studs is a terrible idea. You have to drill the old stud out accurately enough to install a new bolt in EXACTLY the same place, twice, because if you mess up either one, it throws all the driveline angles off and the car will vibrate and rattle for all eternity.
Alternatively, while you have the old subframe out, you can throw it in the trash, get another one for $100 or so, and ensure that the studs are in the right place.
Alternatively, while you have the old subframe out, you can throw it in the trash, get another one for $100 or so, and ensure that the studs are in the right place.
--Ian
#15
It could be fixed, but given the prevalence of replacement subframes it is easier not to. I would think (and am probably wrong) that bolting in the diff housing would locate them properly. I looked at that part of the subframe once, on the top side there is a round, maybe 2" diameter piece that is welded from the top, that I assume the threaded portion is attached to, but once that is removed there's no telling how many other ways the stud is attached.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post