I have a 1990 that I'll be doing some track days/ time trial days soon. I'm currently non-turbo and focusing on building a reliable car that I can beat up and learn on.

Here's a ****-ton of questions:

-I have a '95 parts car. Any benefit to swapping over to the 95 MC?

-I'll be running the 95 calipers with stock rotors/ pads for the street, I have a set of Napa rotors Porterfield R4 for track days.

-I have a bunch of fresh bottles of Motul RBF600 from my karting days, so I'll use that.

-I need to order brake lines-- is there a particular brand that people prefer? I was going to buy Emilio's because he's the company behind the Miata Challenge. Gotta support those who support.

-What about the Prop valve? Should I swap over the 1995 valve? I was considering buying an adjustable prop valve now just because I will have the whole system open. I'd prefer the lever-style, but it looks like most of the Miata guys go with the **** style?

-while I have the system apart, should I remove/ modify the dust shields? I can fabricate duct inlets -- but I'm not sure I need to go that far-- the car is slow and I'm new (slow).

-do I need to worry about the master cylinder deflecting? I have read that people really like the difference the MC bracing makes, but maybe this is something for another day like the ducting...

In the end, I don't mind going overboard with the details. I'd rather not spend the day worried about cooking my brakes.

thanks-

 

I wouldn't bother with the '95 master cylinder or proportioning valve.

Install FM's wilwood proportioning valve for $43.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=14-76250
and adjust as required, and as you upgrade pads/calipers/rotors/master cylinders.

No brake lines are preferred, we trust all the major brands such as FM, 949, Goodwin, TSE, etc. I'd just get which ever ones you prefer and are the cheapest, which with those guys doesn't really have anything to do with quality.

Again, if you want, buy $36 of 3" brake ducting, or 6' and some zip ties. Then cut out the stock dust shields (can be annoying unless you're removing the spindles, but it's possible), and copy Emilio's setup:

 

Thanks Curly.
Maybe I'll save the backing plates/ ducts for when I do the bearings/studs on the spindles.

Is there any reason for the preference toward the ****-style prop valve vs. the lever style?

 

If I had to guess, because the lever is slightly more expensive and not sold by the usual Miata vendors. FM sells the **** with a hardware kit, for example.

 

The hardware is the difficult part. I'm not sure if the lever version has the same NPT as the **** style does, but FM's hardware makes install very easy. I believe the lever version only has a few settings that it "clicks" into. **** has infinite settings within it's range.