brake flare nut help
#1
Tour de Franzia
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I ruined a flare nut and I have a leak at the prop valve. Can someone point me i the right direction for a replacement nut and the proper flare-tool to fix this ****?
I could just use channel locks and teflon, but that's asking for trouble.
I could just use channel locks and teflon, but that's asking for trouble.
#2
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Actually if the threads and taper are still good, you'd be safe to back it out, put some Teflon tape on, and tighten it back up with the channel locks, which is what I'd do if I were you. If you really need to replace the nut, you'll have to cut a bit of the old brake line off with a pipe cutter (needs to have a perfectly straight cut) deburr the cut, and use a DOUBLE flaring tool, after of course you've slid the new nut on. Hopefully after you've done all this you'll still have enough slack to reach the proportioning valve, as it'll take about .5" off the line. All this is much much much easier with the line completely removed from the car, and good luck finding metric fittings, although its possible.
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Teflon tape won't do **** to repair damaged brake fittings. They seal at the flare, the threads only put pressure on the flare to get it to seal.
As has been said above, if the threads are messed up at the end then they can be filed. If the nut hex is rounded off then the only real fix is replacing the nut and reflaring the tube. The nut and tools should be able to be purchased at any decent parts store.
As has been said above, if the threads are messed up at the end then they can be filed. If the nut hex is rounded off then the only real fix is replacing the nut and reflaring the tube. The nut and tools should be able to be purchased at any decent parts store.
#10
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The seat and threads look fine, but this one nut wouldn't back out and died. I minus whale try to use the teflon to get it to thread deeper, and hopefully seal-up. I guess I'll just go to the auto-parts store with the old valve and hope for the best.
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