Black Poly Bushings, do they squeak?
#21
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I wouldn't have said it if I didn't mean it.
Or you can dig through my thread and find the pics of a miata with a wheel fallen off, twice. And the 4 cheap *** no name ball joints I had to replace inside 6 months. Or you can just go pop "miata ball joint failure" into google and see for yourself.
Moog is ******* garbage now, damn near everything is ******* garbage any longer.
Or you can dig through my thread and find the pics of a miata with a wheel fallen off, twice. And the 4 cheap *** no name ball joints I had to replace inside 6 months. Or you can just go pop "miata ball joint failure" into google and see for yourself.
Moog is ******* garbage now, damn near everything is ******* garbage any longer.
#24
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It's simple. Buy poly, get poly. It's cheap, what could possibly go wrong?
Or, buy 'not poly', and don't get poly, don't get the stiction, don't get the seizing, don't get the squeaking, etc.
BTDT. Learnt the hard way, my poly needed 5lb hammer to remove. Delrin went in the racecar, the current dual-duty car has SADFAB poly/bronze - expensive, worth every penny and then some.
Or, buy 'not poly', and don't get poly, don't get the stiction, don't get the seizing, don't get the squeaking, etc.
BTDT. Learnt the hard way, my poly needed 5lb hammer to remove. Delrin went in the racecar, the current dual-duty car has SADFAB poly/bronze - expensive, worth every penny and then some.
#25
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's simple. Buy poly, get poly. It's cheap, what could possibly go wrong?
Or, buy 'not poly', and don't get poly, don't get the stiction, don't get the seizing, don't get the squeaking, etc.
BTDT. Learnt the hard way, my poly needed 5lb hammer to remove. Delrin went in the racecar, the current dual-duty car has SADFAB poly/bronze - expensive, worth every penny and then some.
Or, buy 'not poly', and don't get poly, don't get the stiction, don't get the seizing, don't get the squeaking, etc.
BTDT. Learnt the hard way, my poly needed 5lb hammer to remove. Delrin went in the racecar, the current dual-duty car has SADFAB poly/bronze - expensive, worth every penny and then some.
If you go SADFAB you are also supporting members on this forum that support us (and answer many many questions on this very forum).
I have yet to see a post from energy suspension or any other bushing supplier except SADFAB.
We WANT to keep our forum vendors in business.
They are the life blood of the Miata community.
#26
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I wouldn't have said it if I didn't mean it.
Or you can dig through my thread and find the pics of a miata with a wheel fallen off, twice. And the 4 cheap *** no name ball joints I had to replace inside 6 months. Or you can just go pop "miata ball joint failure" into google and see for yourself.
Moog is ******* garbage now, damn near everything is ******* garbage any longer.
Or you can dig through my thread and find the pics of a miata with a wheel fallen off, twice. And the 4 cheap *** no name ball joints I had to replace inside 6 months. Or you can just go pop "miata ball joint failure" into google and see for yourself.
Moog is ******* garbage now, damn near everything is ******* garbage any longer.
#28
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This says it all. If you're serious don't waste time and money trying to save a few bucks.
If you go SADFAB you are also supporting members on this forum that support us (and answer many many questions on this very forum).
I have yet to see a post from energy suspension or any other bushing supplier except SADFAB.
We WANT to keep our forum vendors in business.
They are the life blood of the Miata community.
If you go SADFAB you are also supporting members on this forum that support us (and answer many many questions on this very forum).
I have yet to see a post from energy suspension or any other bushing supplier except SADFAB.
We WANT to keep our forum vendors in business.
They are the life blood of the Miata community.
#30
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I drilled all of my control arm points and installed zerks. Grease them once every 6mo and have had no squeaking from the energy suspension stuff. Years ago I took some chips of turcite that we machine a lot of at work and ground them up in a coffee bean grinder them mixed them with the silicone grease for an unusually squeaky swaybar on my r32. It actually worked good. From a stiction and friction stand point it is better to use something like the sadfab or hard plastic bushings.
#32
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Hey @dsamani did you do the bushes change yet? If so can you please post an update on how it feels? I'm also looking into some bushing options to change my OEM dried died ones. Thanks
I am on 100% stock suspension at the moment, feeling wise I don't feel much of a difference comfort-wise. I'm waiting to get my car on the dyno to tune it as well as some suspension upgrades, so once I do that I'll have a better idea of how it feels handling-wise.
Noise is non-existent. Here in Florida we have roads similar to that of a third-world country and despite all the bumps, bushings have not squeaked once. It should be noted, however, that they are newly installed and squeaks could develop later, but I doubt this will happen.
#33
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@dsamani thanks for the update man; great to hear that so far so good on the noise level. Of course it might change over time yes. Since I'm located in Greece I think getting the extra SADFAB kit would be difficult in terms of shipping (I'd like to send in my bushes for drilling); so the Prothane kit alone seems the next step for me. I don't plan to buy new OEM ones for various reasons.
Thanks for the tips overall. Please do update when you have some news.
Cheers
Thanks for the tips overall. Please do update when you have some news.
Cheers
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