Thanks!

 

I've run a multitude of different rotors. For autocross the lightweight and dirt cheap wildwood ultralight 32 work fine and are light by few pounds worth, They work so so on the track if you don't abuse them too hard where they crack they would also be fine on a lower HP car. I like the more expensive directional vane ones for track use. I've used Coleman racing or the wildwood HD36 with good success some other brands from summit as well do ok.

The kit started as an off the shelf Mini Cooper kit very minor mods required to fit it to a Miata.

 

Sorry. A better question to ask would be what rotor hats are you running?

 

The off the shelf ones that cam with the Mini Cooper 11.75" willwood kit + home made center rings.

Side note when I bought this Mini's came with 12mm wheel bolts. looks like wildwood changed the drawing for larger 14mm when Mini changed sizes a several years later.

Id be curious if TrackSpeed or V8R hats would be interchangeable. If not I still Bet they would still work even if they weren't the exact same offset there is a few mm of adjustment range with shims. The trackspeed hats look a bit nicer The Mini Caliper bracket fits and works with the Miata knuckle, bolt holes need to be very slightly enlarged for bigger SAE size bolts.

 

Yeah. I run the 14mm bolt hole rotors. Just the stock JCW 11.7" though. The centering rings are crucial because the rotors aren't aligned with the studs anymore.

 

I don't think the current 36/30 piston size is the best match for the sport rears brakes. Not a really great match for the 1.8 rears either.

Stoptech lists optional piston sizes for the STR-42 from 28-40. Assuming that range applies to the ST-42 as well you can fine tune the piston sizes. A 36/34 gets you back near the magic 3.00 piston area. Not sure what splits should be to solve pad taper though.

 

When I looked at the Piston areas and rotor diameters I suggested to stoptech at least a .2 Delta in friction material mu. That is roughly what we got with the pads they sent us. One concern I had was the shape of the torque curve. I asked them to send me plots for the pads and the shapes of the curve were very similar, obviously just lower magnitude with the rear pads. They had also asked me which other Computing pads they should test in comparative evaluation. I'm not at liberty to share the results of the tests but I can tell you that if you are running on the Hawk DTC line of pads, I feel sorry for you. Anyway, I think the kit will be balanced at a wide variety of temperatures with the pads provided.

One advantage of going at the low end of front piston area is a better pedal. We will have it on track next week at Buttonwillow. We'll see how it fares. The hardware I have is all sort of first article but not what will actually shipped to dealers. Hopefully I can have some influence on the set up and make any tweaks so that if anybody orders a kit is completely track-ready and does not need to be changed in any way. As you might have figured out, we are not yet committed to offering it on our site. But this is what we do with all the stuff we offer. Beat the crap out of it see if it works first.

 

< Hawk DTC pad user that doesn't understand what you just said

 

After looking at the torque curves for the DTC60 and another DTC pad compared to several other brands/compounds of race pads, I'm baffled why anyone would want to run them. Looking at the plots, they would be so-so street pads.
I just mentioned that in stark comparison to the Stoptech pads which compared favorably to G-Loc compounds. Still prefer the G-Loc but I'd put the SR33 and SR34 Stoptechs in the same category as PFC01, XR2, et.al.
Time will tell how they wear and feel in race like conditions but so far, they feel pretty good while bedding in on public roads.

 

Would you say that the test torque graph didn't match this one published by hawk?

 

Yes.

Disclaimer: I did not personally conduct either test. Thus my opinion on this is worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

Cool thanks for the info. Hope the actual test data gets released.

 

Did my first leek test of the DynaproR today. I hate threaded ALU,
I don't have any confident for my ability to feel the thin line between tight and leek free and stripped threads.

10 years after Bob showed the path, 4years after I decided to take the plunge and one year since I bought the kit. Procrastinator...

Testing in the weekend, and I can take some pictures of an AP option as well (295mm disk). But IIRC that have large pistons, unless the local AP-distributor have made some special arrangement.

 

http://www.gasoila.com/gasoilar-100-...d-sealant.html

That stuff is win for NPT -- it's their 10k PSI variant that resists most solvents and never cracks. They also make an E85-specific variant for fuel systems.

 

Did you happen to use TRMotorsport C1 15x7 inch wheels with those rotors?

 

No I didn't. they did work with Kosi K1, Volk Te37, Sprint Heart CPF, Team Dynamics, 949 6UL 8, 9,10,11" maybe just the first gen on the 8" without a spacer I ran them with 8" first gen 6Uls and no spacer before the 9" existed. some other wheels as well. There is also a template for wheel fit that can be printed out from the wilwood site. its the same as the 11.75" race kit for 15" wheels sold for ~2005 mini cooper.

 

OZ Superleggera 15x7 fits as well after weight removal. Nice to be able to keep the trusted wet setup wheels

 

Emilio, any updates on the Stoptech kit?

 

So far so good. We will post something more comprehensive in the next few days.

 

Not to highjack this thread, but are you guys changing to a different master cylinder when doing big brakes. I have Goodwin version 3 11" brakes up front and M tuned adapted 10.9" sport brakes in the rear with 1.8 calipers. Im running this with a 1.6l Master that came in the car.

Any benefit to upgrading my master?