The Better Bilstein Ebay Coilover Thread
#262
Cpt. Slow
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Put the car on jack stands and take the wheels off. Jack up on each set of control arms until it just lifts that corner off the stand. Now loosen and re-tighten everything that's not an eccentric. On the rears that's one outer upper bushing, two inner upper bushings, and one long outer lower bushing. On the fronts it's one long inner upper bushing. Doesn't hurt to do the lower shock mount bolt at the same time.
Hope this helps.
#265
Just experienced this myself while installing some brand new Ohlins. Ended up being bound up rear bushings.
Put the car on jack stands and take the wheels off. Jack up on each set of control arms until it just lifts that corner off the stand. Now loosen and re-tighten everything that's not an eccentric. On the rears that's one outer upper bushing, two inner upper bushings, and one long outer lower bushing. On the fronts it's one long inner upper bushing. Doesn't hurt to do the lower shock mount bolt at the same time.
Hope this helps.
Put the car on jack stands and take the wheels off. Jack up on each set of control arms until it just lifts that corner off the stand. Now loosen and re-tighten everything that's not an eccentric. On the rears that's one outer upper bushing, two inner upper bushings, and one long outer lower bushing. On the fronts it's one long inner upper bushing. Doesn't hurt to do the lower shock mount bolt at the same time.
Hope this helps.
#270
Here's a pic of one of my front shocks before I made some final adjustments. The perch/locking nut are now down as far as they will go, I had them temporarily adjusted high enough that they would be seated at full droop. After looking at it some more, the front is definitely lower than stock thanks to the 6" springs, but the rear is still pretty high. I'll try to take a better picture of the car later today...
Here's how I arranged everything from top of the shock down:
- OEM 14mm Nut
- Bilstein 17mm Lock Nut
- OEM Washer Thing
- OEM Rubber Bushing (some people use part of a bump stop)
- OEM NB Top Hat
- Other OEM Rubber Bushing (the one that fits in the hole in the top hat)
- 2 fender washers (replaced OEM bump stop "cup")
- Integra bump stop cut to 36mm
No spring isolators between spring and top hat. So far I haven't heard any scary noises, and I work in the shitty part of town where the roads are less than satisfactory. I did put a rubber ring (came with sleeves) between the perch and the spring. I figured it might be a good idea since the spring is steel and the perch is aluminum. The sleeves/perches are identical to the ones in the original post. They have about a 12mm non-threaded section at the bottom. This and the two thick perches/nuts obviously limit adjustability, but I didn't want to flip them and have the treaded part resting on the clip because it looks too thin to be trusted...
I might just buy two all star sleeves for the rear and see how I like them.
Here's how I arranged everything from top of the shock down:
- OEM 14mm Nut
- Bilstein 17mm Lock Nut
- OEM Washer Thing
- OEM Rubber Bushing (some people use part of a bump stop)
- OEM NB Top Hat
- Other OEM Rubber Bushing (the one that fits in the hole in the top hat)
- 2 fender washers (replaced OEM bump stop "cup")
- Integra bump stop cut to 36mm
No spring isolators between spring and top hat. So far I haven't heard any scary noises, and I work in the shitty part of town where the roads are less than satisfactory. I did put a rubber ring (came with sleeves) between the perch and the spring. I figured it might be a good idea since the spring is steel and the perch is aluminum. The sleeves/perches are identical to the ones in the original post. They have about a 12mm non-threaded section at the bottom. This and the two thick perches/nuts obviously limit adjustability, but I didn't want to flip them and have the treaded part resting on the clip because it looks too thin to be trusted...
I might just buy two all star sleeves for the rear and see how I like them.
#272
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You are limited in droop by your springs. Using 7inch springs is better for that.
FWIW, you can get the adjusters lower if you were to flip the black collars over. They will go down until you run out of threads at the bottom.
FWIW, you can get the adjusters lower if you were to flip the black collars over. They will go down until you run out of threads at the bottom.
#275
Junior Member
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Regarding the MSM Bilsteins, was there a consensus as to what spring rates were fastest on track (comfort not a concern), with R comp street tires like Rivals or RA1s?
I've seen numbers listed here as high as 550/350 (believe that was Jacob300zx) on stock valving. Highest I saw from Hustler was 450/300, I think it was JeffGoji who was actually running 550/375.
Curious for any first hand knowledge on handling improvements (read: lap time improvements) with such higher rates...
I've seen numbers listed here as high as 550/350 (believe that was Jacob300zx) on stock valving. Highest I saw from Hustler was 450/300, I think it was JeffGoji who was actually running 550/375.
Curious for any first hand knowledge on handling improvements (read: lap time improvements) with such higher rates...
#276
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RyanG is using 600/350 or 600/400 on stock MSM Bilsteins in a daily driver with street tires that he also tracks. The ride is good enough to take a grown woman with a college degree on a date in the car and not be embarrassed.
#277
I also chose these spring rates for the MSM bilsteins because of a thread over on mazda-speed.com where someone had a shock dyno of some MSM bilsteins that they used to make some calculations which lead to those spring rates for heavy track use. I'll trycto remember to find out later and link it here.
#278
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Thanks Steve & Ryan, If you do find that link let me know, I'll search for it in the meantime.
Ryan - how is it on track?
hahaha, nice.
Ryan - how is it on track?
The ride is good enough to take a grown woman with a college degree on a date in the car and not be embarrassed.
Last edited by sbcrx007; 10-29-2014 at 08:35 AM. Reason: retardation