3.63 ring and pinion SHIMS.
#1
3.63 ring and pinion SHIMS.
New here. I have a 3.63 ring and pinion ready to go but my mechanic says I'll need new shims/spacers. And I cannot for the life of me find a retailer who sells the shims/spacers or whatever. My Mazda dealer says they're no longer available. And I found a kit from Mazmart that comes with the seals and the ring and pinion but excludes shims. If anyone could direct me to a retailer who sells shims for the pinion, please share.
Last edited by MturboMiata; 11-08-2018 at 10:03 PM. Reason: Spelling
#2
Stock setup actually uses a crush sleeve instead of a solid spacer. I've never purchased one of those new, so maybe someone else will chime in about ordering one.
When I bought my OS Giken, I elected to use this kit from Weir Performance that replaces it with a solid spacer and shims. He still sells them.
EDIT: @TNTUBA has a good list of the OE part numbers.
When I bought my OS Giken, I elected to use this kit from Weir Performance that replaces it with a solid spacer and shims. He still sells them.
EDIT: @TNTUBA has a good list of the OE part numbers.
#4
I bought mine through mazda motorsports when I built mine. If Mazda stopped making it, that won't work though. I bet it's possible the parts guy didn't know how to find it.
Actually, I lucked out and needed the exact same size it had already. But I was ready to order a new one. You'll need to know what size shim you need to order it.
Actually, I lucked out and needed the exact same size it had already. But I was ready to order a new one. You'll need to know what size shim you need to order it.
#5
My parts guy found them all. And my college (who is doing the work) instructor refused to open the diff until I had all the parts... Soooo I was just going to order all the shims. I know it's a waste but it's what I had to do (saving TONS from having the college do it) and he started to order them and it said they weren't available to order anymore. And I looked at Mazda motorsports but couldn't find them. Maybe they call them spacers instead of shims. I'll re-look.
#11
The pinions are marked with a code that in indicates where they are on the tolerance range. You can use the difference between the marks to calculate the shim thickness needed.
If you search around for "pinion depth" or posts about swapping the r&p, you should find a guide on it that explains it well. It's been a few years since I did mine, so I'm not sure where it is any more. Figuring out pinion depth was actually one of the easiest parts.
If you search around for "pinion depth" or posts about swapping the r&p, you should find a guide on it that explains it well. It's been a few years since I did mine, so I'm not sure where it is any more. Figuring out pinion depth was actually one of the easiest parts.
#12
The pinions are marked with a code that in indicates where they are on the tolerance range. You can use the difference between the marks to calculate the shim thickness needed.
If you search around for "pinion depth" or posts about swapping the r&p, you should find a guide on it that explains it well. It's been a few years since I did mine, so I'm not sure where it is any more. Figuring out pinion depth was actually one of the easiest parts.
If you search around for "pinion depth" or posts about swapping the r&p, you should find a guide on it that explains it well. It's been a few years since I did mine, so I'm not sure where it is any more. Figuring out pinion depth was actually one of the easiest parts.
#13
In my experience (and many others) the gears are built to very tight tolerances and the housings are where most of the variances are. So often times if the shim stays paired with the housing the new gear set will run properly with good engagement marks. I reused the housing’s original shim when regearing my diff and it’s fine, good engagement pattern, runs nice and quiet.
#14
In my experience (and many others) the gears are built to very tight tolerances and the housings are where most of the variances are. So often times if the shim stays paired with the housing the new gear set will run properly with good engagement marks. I reused the housing’s original shim when regearing my diff and it’s fine, good engagement pattern, runs nice and quiet.
#16
Look here; https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...ey_model=14360
The shim is part 27401. There are like 25 sizes offered, the only way to determine exactly which you will need aside from trial and error is using the Mazda install tool which I believe is a dealer only tool.
The shim is part 27401. There are like 25 sizes offered, the only way to determine exactly which you will need aside from trial and error is using the Mazda install tool which I believe is a dealer only tool.
#17
Look here; https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...ey_model=14360
The shim is part 27401. There are like 25 sizes offered, the only way to determine exactly which you will need aside from trial and error is using the Mazda install tool which I believe is a dealer only tool.
The shim is part 27401. There are like 25 sizes offered, the only way to determine exactly which you will need aside from trial and error is using the Mazda install tool which I believe is a dealer only tool.
#18
That said, I do have a spare pinion shim I can measure ID and OD when I get home later, but I doubt it will help. You’re gonna have to trial and error it and order one from Mazda. Or else order all of them from Mazda and return what you don’t need (if you can.)
But all of this will probably be pointless cause the one from the original gearset is almost certain to give correct pinion depth ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
#19
What he wants doesn’t exist. This is a Miata, maaaybe 5% of owners will actually regear their diffs to something outside of the factory offerings, it’s not like a GM 4x4 which sold like 10x as many vehicles, and where 30% of owners are gonna regear for big tires. There is no such thing as a pinion shim kit for these cars.
That said, I do have a spare pinion shim I can measure ID and OD when I get home later, but I doubt it will help. You’re gonna have to trial and error it and order one from Mazda. Or else order all of them from Mazda and return what you don’t need (if you can.)
But all of this will probably be pointless cause the one from the original gearset is almost certain to give correct pinion depth ¯\_(ツ)_/¯