1" Wilwood Master Cylinder
#1
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Hi,
I want to install new high perfromance brake system on my 1992 this winter.
Has anyone installed the following master cylinder and have pictures/advice on install?
http://949racing.com/miata-wilwood-master-cylinder.aspx
I plan to use master cylinder with the brake kit below...
http://949racing.com/miata-wilwood-b...kit-90-02.aspx
I also want to install the brake proportionaing valve below...
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=14-76240
Any advice with install or pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks
I want to install new high perfromance brake system on my 1992 this winter.
Has anyone installed the following master cylinder and have pictures/advice on install?
http://949racing.com/miata-wilwood-master-cylinder.aspx
I plan to use master cylinder with the brake kit below...
http://949racing.com/miata-wilwood-b...kit-90-02.aspx
I also want to install the brake proportionaing valve below...
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=14-76240
Any advice with install or pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks
#2
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I had the prop valve on my old 1.6 but never really got to see it's full capabilities due to running Wilwood front calipers and 1.6 stock rears. (I could never lock up the rears because the fronts were so overpowering).
What leads you to believe you even need a setup like this? Usually this is on all out track cars or high hp turbo or V8 cars.
What leads you to believe you even need a setup like this? Usually this is on all out track cars or high hp turbo or V8 cars.
#6
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Has anyone installed the following master cylinder and have pictures/advice on install?
http://949racing.com/miata-wilwood-master-cylinder.aspx
http://949racing.com/miata-wilwood-master-cylinder.aspx
This conversion kit is intended for use with modified brake systems using larger than stock rotors, and/or aftermarket calipers. Such brake upgrades can increase brake torque for a given pedal effort. Because of this extra braking power, one can use a larger bore master cylinder to reduce the needed pedal travel and still achieve good pedal feel & modulation.
The options are there if/when you see a problem. But testing is knowing, and others experiences might not be identical to your own.
#7
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Install the Goodwin kit with a 1" master cylinder with a proportioning valve and make sure you upgrade to 2002+ sport brake rear calipers with it. The brakes will feel absolutely amazing. And the system will work good for track use.
Can’t really get enough rear bias even with an adjustable proportioning valve unless you switch from 1.25” rear caliper pistons to the 1.375” pistons that come on the sport brake cars. The 1” master just makes the pedal a little more solid with less deflection makes heal toe downshifts more consistant, definitely an upgrade in my book.
Note: Use 94-97 standard rear caliper brackets with 2002+ sport brake calipers they fit and pads I think are cheaper. The sport calipers can be used on 90-93 caliper brackets but it requires some grinding on the caliper to get the 90 to 93 shaped pads to fit.
Note: If your looking for extensive tracking a car with more than 300 hp or so or are tracking it an incredible amount you might want to look at some 11.75” setups. And consider some kits that might have cheaper cost for replacement consumables maybe longer life such as friction rings and pads.
Bob
Can’t really get enough rear bias even with an adjustable proportioning valve unless you switch from 1.25” rear caliper pistons to the 1.375” pistons that come on the sport brake cars. The 1” master just makes the pedal a little more solid with less deflection makes heal toe downshifts more consistant, definitely an upgrade in my book.
Note: Use 94-97 standard rear caliper brackets with 2002+ sport brake calipers they fit and pads I think are cheaper. The sport calipers can be used on 90-93 caliper brackets but it requires some grinding on the caliper to get the 90 to 93 shaped pads to fit.
Note: If your looking for extensive tracking a car with more than 300 hp or so or are tracking it an incredible amount you might want to look at some 11.75” setups. And consider some kits that might have cheaper cost for replacement consumables maybe longer life such as friction rings and pads.
Bob
#8
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Bob, any reason not to grab the complete sport rear brakes? (expect maybe cost of pads) Calipers, brackets and rotors? I know you run some fancy rear stuff with lots of bracketry and even larger rotors. How would those compare to dynalite fronts on 11" fronts with the sport calipers/rotors combo to just the sport calipers on oem 94 rotors?
#9
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Bob, any reason not to grab the complete sport rear brakes? (expect maybe cost of pads) Calipers, brackets and rotors? I know you run some fancy rear stuff with lots of bracketry and even larger rotors. How would those compare to dynalite fronts on 11" fronts with the sport calipers/rotors combo to just the sport calipers on oem 94 rotors?
Honestly if you wanted to save money Id say get the 1" master, bias valve, get the front kit that wilwood makes and sells fairly cheap then just run stock sport brakes in the rear. Stock sport brakes have bigger rotors than the Goodwin kit does even. I can't imagine the aluminum rotor hats saving more than a pound or so and replacement cost of stock rotors is cheap.
With the 11.75" kits, sport brake rears are barely enough to balance the system but nobody makes a retail kit like what I put together yet. Your kind of on your own. I think the V8r kit has some bugs to it in piston sizing and way overkill rear rotors.
Bob
#13
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Goodwin doesn't sell a rear kit that works with sport caliper brackets.
Honestly if you wanted to save money Id say get the 1" master, bias valve, get the front kit that wilwood makes and sells fairly cheap then just run stock sport brakes in the rear. Stock sport brakes have bigger rotors than the Goodwin kit does even. I can't imagine the aluminum rotor hats saving more than a pound or so and replacement cost of stock rotors is cheap.
With the 11.75" kits, sport brake rears are barely enough to balance the system but nobody makes a retail kit like what I put together yet. Your kind of on your own. I think the V8r kit has some bugs to it in piston sizing and way overkill rear rotors.
Bob
Honestly if you wanted to save money Id say get the 1" master, bias valve, get the front kit that wilwood makes and sells fairly cheap then just run stock sport brakes in the rear. Stock sport brakes have bigger rotors than the Goodwin kit does even. I can't imagine the aluminum rotor hats saving more than a pound or so and replacement cost of stock rotors is cheap.
With the 11.75" kits, sport brake rears are barely enough to balance the system but nobody makes a retail kit like what I put together yet. Your kind of on your own. I think the V8r kit has some bugs to it in piston sizing and way overkill rear rotors.
Bob
#15
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I already have the 11" rotors with dynalites up front, prop valve in tranny tunnel but the standard rear 1.8 brakes. I have a 7/8th NB master cylinder I might be able to trade for the 1" MC. I also have the booster that came with the 7/8th MC, is there any difference in those? I'll be looking for the NB sport calipers then. Brackets/rotors too if the price is right. Do you run the same pad compound front and rear?
I think all NB boosters were the same interface but there are different boost assist ratios within that subset depending on sport brake or ABS options I could be wrong. I know the ones that came with sport brake 15/16" masters won’t work with the earlier 7/8" masters and the early boosters won't work with the 1" 929 masters. There are two styles of interface geometry between master and booster.
Bob
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