Which wideband do I need?
#1
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Which wideband do I need?
I have a used Rotrex kit to install on my car. I'd like to get a wide band to moniter the AFRs and for any tuning needed. What do I need. I see a few different options out there. AEM UEGO or Innovate MTX-L. Is one better than the other? Why?
#6
I've had the LC1 in the past and it was great. Bright easy to read digital gauge. For the build I'm working on now I went with AEM-
AEM Performance Electronics Wideband UEGO Failsafe Gauge - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics
I went with this one as it has both the AFR and boost in one gauge and I'd rather not have several aftermarket gauges.
Both Innovate and AEM will send a 0-5v analog signal to the EMS (MS3 in my case).
AEM Performance Electronics Wideband UEGO Failsafe Gauge - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics
I went with this one as it has both the AFR and boost in one gauge and I'd rather not have several aftermarket gauges.
Both Innovate and AEM will send a 0-5v analog signal to the EMS (MS3 in my case).
#7
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I dumped it and switched to an AEM UEGO and never looked back. I've used UEGOs powered/grounded to the diagnostic box and they work just the same. The LC-1 sacrifices reliability and ease of use for an tiny, tiny improvement in response time. No thank you.
#8
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I got a chance play with an AEM Failsafe the other day and christ that thing has a shitload of functions, but not sure how useful they all are depending on what ECU OP is using. Most of the functions and outputs are redundant if you are using any flavor of Megasquirt, or completely useless if you are using a piggyback or powercard type controller and the factory ECU. AFR & Boost in one gauge is nice, but I don't know if its $320 nice.
I used an AEM UEGO with my DIYPNP and its was a good match. The AEM is just dead simple without requiring all the free air calibration etc etc. This time I have an MTX-L to go with my pending MS3 because I got it cheap damn near NIB.
tomiboy: what are you using for an ECU?
I used an AEM UEGO with my DIYPNP and its was a good match. The AEM is just dead simple without requiring all the free air calibration etc etc. This time I have an MTX-L to go with my pending MS3 because I got it cheap damn near NIB.
tomiboy: what are you using for an ECU?
#10
Ah, no. Mine was installed by the book, including grounding it to the ECU grounds using unicorn blood as a lubricant, and it worked perfectly for quite a while until the original sensor died, and then never worked properly again. Repeated heater cals, free air cals, different sensors, nothing ever solved it.
I dumped it and switched to an AEM UEGO and never looked back. I've used UEGOs powered/grounded to the diagnostic box and they work just the same. The LC-1 sacrifices reliability and ease of use for an tiny, tiny improvement in response time. No thank you.
I dumped it and switched to an AEM UEGO and never looked back. I've used UEGOs powered/grounded to the diagnostic box and they work just the same. The LC-1 sacrifices reliability and ease of use for an tiny, tiny improvement in response time. No thank you.
3rd or 4th year on mine, 3-4th sensor. Works like a champ. Not sure which sensors you were buying but is it by any chance you bought the wrong cheaper one?
As far as my findings go theres couple sensors that will fit in there however none of them work properly since the electronic units are different. Reliability sacrifices? Please explain more on that because i dont see it.
Btw i'm on the 3rd or 4th sensor not because the sensor is bad but because of stupid **** like trying to adjust the cranking fuel and fouling the sensor at -15f.
#14
Didn't see mention of the failsafe version AEM UEGO. Given the additional coin is available, it's a no brainer if you ask me. Set it up correctly and it will not only notify you when things have gone outside of your set (or learned) parameters it will help tell you WHERE in your map things went wrong.
For instance if you've been out all night or on the track all day and you notice the indicator for lean is illuminated you can plug in your laptop, look at the plot and be able to quickly identify that @ 5600RPM and 22PSI your car dipped into the 14AFR area quite a few times.
On top of that it has triggers that can be configured to do just about anything you want. Fuel map change (similar to OE limp modes), Ignition cut, or a simple bright LED on your dashboard.
AEM UEGO Failsafe - 30-4900
Electronics : AEM UEGO Failsafe Wideband Gauge
For instance if you've been out all night or on the track all day and you notice the indicator for lean is illuminated you can plug in your laptop, look at the plot and be able to quickly identify that @ 5600RPM and 22PSI your car dipped into the 14AFR area quite a few times.
On top of that it has triggers that can be configured to do just about anything you want. Fuel map change (similar to OE limp modes), Ignition cut, or a simple bright LED on your dashboard.
AEM UEGO Failsafe - 30-4900
Electronics : AEM UEGO Failsafe Wideband Gauge
#15
NTK AFX. Produced for NTK by ECM who produces lab grade lambda monitoring. The AFX is 300ish and not terribly pretty. However, when it comes to lambda measurement, it never pays to cut corners. 300 sounds like a lot compared to some of the competition, but the cheapest one ECM sells is about a grand. Sounds like a deal to me.
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