Newb Installing a M45 kit with MS3. Tuning questions
#1
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Hey there,
So I've finally got together everything for my build. Here's my previous thread of what I'm looking to do: https://www.miataturbo.net/meet-greet-40/finally-starting-boosted-life-97925/
So, first off could anyone point me towards an old installation thread preferably with pictures? Also, the kit I have is an older Sebring kit, is there anything I should be aware of for installation and tuning of this setup?
As for tuning, I'm a complete newb here. I just got my MS3 in the mail and I've never touched it... More than likely will just bring it to a tuning shop to start but first, once I get everything installed, is there a place I can download a base tune to get me running? How does all that work?
So I've finally got together everything for my build. Here's my previous thread of what I'm looking to do: https://www.miataturbo.net/meet-greet-40/finally-starting-boosted-life-97925/
So, first off could anyone point me towards an old installation thread preferably with pictures? Also, the kit I have is an older Sebring kit, is there anything I should be aware of for installation and tuning of this setup?
As for tuning, I'm a complete newb here. I just got my MS3 in the mail and I've never touched it... More than likely will just bring it to a tuning shop to start but first, once I get everything installed, is there a place I can download a base tune to get me running? How does all that work?
#2
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I can't help you with the M45 installation, buuuuuuuuuuuuuuut....
You'll need a laptop with Tunerstudio installed on it and most likely a RS232 to USB cable or adapter of some kind. There's a FREE version which I think is called Tunerstudio LITE which should at least let you connect to the MS3 and upload a base tune. You can upgrade to the Full Version for around $70 which unlocks more features and adds some additional features to the Megalogviewer (for looking at Datalogs). DIYautotune.com is a good place to get a base tune from as they are (I believe) the ones who produce/manufacture Megasquirts (at least a lot of the PNP units). When you do so, make sure it's for your specific year/car/engine.
If anything, check out carpassionchannel on YouTube. He has a couple of quick videos that detail how to install and load a base tune with Megasquirt. Some of the info is a little dated and isn't the end all be all for info, but it is still a good reference to at least help you get started.
Hope that helps and good luck.
You'll need a laptop with Tunerstudio installed on it and most likely a RS232 to USB cable or adapter of some kind. There's a FREE version which I think is called Tunerstudio LITE which should at least let you connect to the MS3 and upload a base tune. You can upgrade to the Full Version for around $70 which unlocks more features and adds some additional features to the Megalogviewer (for looking at Datalogs). DIYautotune.com is a good place to get a base tune from as they are (I believe) the ones who produce/manufacture Megasquirts (at least a lot of the PNP units). When you do so, make sure it's for your specific year/car/engine.
If anything, check out carpassionchannel on YouTube. He has a couple of quick videos that detail how to install and load a base tune with Megasquirt. Some of the info is a little dated and isn't the end all be all for info, but it is still a good reference to at least help you get started.
Hope that helps and good luck.
#3
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As for tuning, I'm a complete newb here. I just got my MS3 in the mail and I've never touched it... More than likely will just bring it to a tuning shop to start but first, once I get everything installed, is there a place I can download a base tune to get me running? How does all that work?
Exactly what MS3 do you have.
#4
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I can't help you with the M45 installation, buuuuuuuuuuuuuuut....
You'll need a laptop with Tunerstudio installed on it and most likely a RS232 to USB cable or adapter of some kind. There's a FREE version which I think is called Tunerstudio LITE which should at least let you connect to the MS3 and upload a base tune. You can upgrade to the Full Version for around $70 which unlocks more features and adds some additional features to the Megalogviewer (for looking at Datalogs). DIYautotune.com is a good place to get a base tune from as they are (I believe) the ones who produce/manufacture Megasquirts (at least a lot of the PNP units). When you do so, make sure it's for your specific year/car/engine.
If anything, check out carpassionchannel on YouTube. He has a couple of quick videos that detail how to install and load a base tune with Megasquirt. Some of the info is a little dated and isn't the end all be all for info, but it is still a good reference to at least help you get started.
Hope that helps and good luck.
You'll need a laptop with Tunerstudio installed on it and most likely a RS232 to USB cable or adapter of some kind. There's a FREE version which I think is called Tunerstudio LITE which should at least let you connect to the MS3 and upload a base tune. You can upgrade to the Full Version for around $70 which unlocks more features and adds some additional features to the Megalogviewer (for looking at Datalogs). DIYautotune.com is a good place to get a base tune from as they are (I believe) the ones who produce/manufacture Megasquirts (at least a lot of the PNP units). When you do so, make sure it's for your specific year/car/engine.
If anything, check out carpassionchannel on YouTube. He has a couple of quick videos that detail how to install and load a base tune with Megasquirt. Some of the info is a little dated and isn't the end all be all for info, but it is still a good reference to at least help you get started.
Hope that helps and good luck.
#7
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I actually did this combo (MS3x and Sebring kit on a 1.6. Go look at my build thread.)
Step one is going to be: Ignore you have the supercharger stuff and get the megasquirt working in the car. Learn at least basic tuning and setup.
Then install the supercharger kit. It will go in easy. Make sure you line up the supercharger pulley right. I had zero issues with throwing belts.
Step one is going to be: Ignore you have the supercharger stuff and get the megasquirt working in the car. Learn at least basic tuning and setup.
Then install the supercharger kit. It will go in easy. Make sure you line up the supercharger pulley right. I had zero issues with throwing belts.
#8
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I don't have any install threads bookmarked, but these should be the instructions for the install. Have a few others but they refer to 94-97. can attach if you'd like to see them as well, might be handy if you are running a dummy throttle body as this one only references stock TB location
depending on which tensioner you have, the other document may also be relevant.
depending on which tensioner you have, the other document may also be relevant.
#10
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I actually did this combo (MS3x and Sebring kit on a 1.6. Go look at my build thread.)
Step one is going to be: Ignore you have the supercharger stuff and get the megasquirt working in the car. Learn at least basic tuning and setup.
Then install the supercharger kit. It will go in easy. Make sure you line up the supercharger pulley right. I had zero issues with throwing belts.
Step one is going to be: Ignore you have the supercharger stuff and get the megasquirt working in the car. Learn at least basic tuning and setup.
Then install the supercharger kit. It will go in easy. Make sure you line up the supercharger pulley right. I had zero issues with throwing belts.
#12
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Get your WBO2 installed and working properly before you do anything with the MS. Otherwise you’re flying blind.
Load basemap from DIYAutoTune, follow instructions to configure, start car. Drive around and autotune for an hour. This will get you a running car that works fine. Install supercharger, scale tables, repeat. Then spend the next six months tuning idle and enrichments.
Load basemap from DIYAutoTune, follow instructions to configure, start car. Drive around and autotune for an hour. This will get you a running car that works fine. Install supercharger, scale tables, repeat. Then spend the next six months tuning idle and enrichments.
#15
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Where to start.
1. Install and calibrate wideband.
2. Remove 1.6 engine and replace with 1.8.
3. Install iat.
4. Install ms3
5. Set map sensor values
6. Set req fuel and injector latency
7. Set iat values
8. Set tps values because 1.8
9. Lock fixed timing
10. Crank and check timing with light
11. Unfix timing
12. Adjust idle fueling in ve table
13. Everything else
1. Install and calibrate wideband.
2. Remove 1.6 engine and replace with 1.8.
3. Install iat.
4. Install ms3
5. Set map sensor values
6. Set req fuel and injector latency
7. Set iat values
8. Set tps values because 1.8
9. Lock fixed timing
10. Crank and check timing with light
11. Unfix timing
12. Adjust idle fueling in ve table
13. Everything else
#16
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Ok, got everything running perfecting. Looks like the 1 setting I missed was to take the readings from Wideband instead of narrow band.
So MS3 is set. Starting on the Supercharger tonight. Already ran into a damn snag, can't figure out how the bracket bolts to the block. Not a single damn picture online and the only real install video I can find is on a 1.6. My car seems to be missing the second bolt. Have a friend on his way to help out.
So MS3 is set. Starting on the Supercharger tonight. Already ran into a damn snag, can't figure out how the bracket bolts to the block. Not a single damn picture online and the only real install video I can find is on a 1.6. My car seems to be missing the second bolt. Have a friend on his way to help out.
#17
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You might sneak a glimpse of this Youtube vid at 2:34. Although this is on an NB, the bracket looks like the Sebring style - newer kits had a slightly different bracket design.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch1xdpkQADw#t=02m33s
I honestly don't know how this mechanic did it though, unless the EU blocks were different and it concerns me he was grinding to make it fit...
If you look at pics of the exhaust side of the 1.6, there is a second bolt hole on the same level as the front engine lift eyelet. It should be just below the cam breather hose, and about 1" or so towards the firewall, just under the cam cover. I don't think these exist on the US 1.8s which might be causing your confusion.
https://www.engineworld.com/product/...l-used-engine/
The two most important parts of this hardware install:
1. Don't lock down the bracket until you're 100% certain that the belts align perfectly with the other pulleys on the engine. Use a straightedge or something to help ensure this. If the pulley is misaligned, it'll cause the belt to jump off the engine at very inopportune times, usually under high speed, or fast shifting transitions.
2. The support beam that holds the outer edge weight of the SC is important. If it's not tight, it'll allow the SC vibrate and you're putting a lot of tongue weight on the bracket. Some later MP62 kits replaced this simple support bar with an adjustable heim joined end. In which case you'd want the support lengthened to push the edge of the SC up to help with supporting the weight.
Hope that makes sense.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch1xdpkQADw#t=02m33s
I honestly don't know how this mechanic did it though, unless the EU blocks were different and it concerns me he was grinding to make it fit...
If you look at pics of the exhaust side of the 1.6, there is a second bolt hole on the same level as the front engine lift eyelet. It should be just below the cam breather hose, and about 1" or so towards the firewall, just under the cam cover. I don't think these exist on the US 1.8s which might be causing your confusion.
https://www.engineworld.com/product/...l-used-engine/
The two most important parts of this hardware install:
1. Don't lock down the bracket until you're 100% certain that the belts align perfectly with the other pulleys on the engine. Use a straightedge or something to help ensure this. If the pulley is misaligned, it'll cause the belt to jump off the engine at very inopportune times, usually under high speed, or fast shifting transitions.
2. The support beam that holds the outer edge weight of the SC is important. If it's not tight, it'll allow the SC vibrate and you're putting a lot of tongue weight on the bracket. Some later MP62 kits replaced this simple support bar with an adjustable heim joined end. In which case you'd want the support lengthened to push the edge of the SC up to help with supporting the weight.
Hope that makes sense.
Last edited by RunninOnEmpty; 09-18-2018 at 02:33 AM. Reason: Added Youtube Minute/Second into URL.
#19
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You might have to thin out a crescent wrench on a grinder to fit it between the head and the compressor to reach those bolt heads.
For the lower bracket- I’d have a stack of washers on hand, so you can get the bracket straight with the power steering bracket. I did not, and it cracked my power steering bracket.
For the lower bracket- I’d have a stack of washers on hand, so you can get the bracket straight with the power steering bracket. I did not, and it cracked my power steering bracket.
#20
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Thanks for all the input! Yeah the bracket was pretty easy to figure out once I quit being stupid and just laid all the parts out in front of me.
Yes, definitely not tightening anything until we just it all together and make sure the belt is aligned. Everything seems pretty straightforward so far. Got the powersteering brackets set up with the tensioners last night.
Need to grab some liquid wrench for the damn Philips head screws on the bottom piece of the trottle body. That was giving me some issues.
Yes, definitely not tightening anything until we just it all together and make sure the belt is aligned. Everything seems pretty straightforward so far. Got the powersteering brackets set up with the tensioners last night.
Need to grab some liquid wrench for the damn Philips head screws on the bottom piece of the trottle body. That was giving me some issues.