How thick is that radiator? Let us know how it fits. That's a hell of a price

 

It is thicker than stock. They list their dimensions on the sales page. The fit and finish is not as nice as my Koyo, but it was pretty good. The rad cap was a joke. The tabs to route the coolant overflow line were too small and in the wrong place, didn't really matter since the line didn't fit under the rad bracket anyways.

All of the radiators on ebay are sold by the same couple of companies. Check the shipping locations- they are the same 3 places.

 

Hi EO2K,
seems like you're thinking of swapping out the Rotrex for a turbo or NA. let me know if you want to off-load the Rotrex, I'm interested.

 

LOL! I am working on something that may involve a turbo and its true that the rotrex is not installed on the car currently. I didn't really have plans to sell it, but I'm open to offers. Shoot me a PM...

...after you go make an intro thread in the Meet and Greet section and tell us about your car.

 

Lol @ DNW

Back on the farm... **** just got real son! Time to get my GOD DAMN 5TH GEAR BACK!



Flyin' Miata "Stage 1" clutch kit
OEM upper shift boot
OEM lower shift boot
OEM clutch fork boot
OEM clutch fork
magnetic drain plug for trans
(I replaced my master and slave < 2 years ago otherwise they would be on this list too)

What could possibly make my life more complicated? Lets take the lightest flywheel anyone ever made for the Miata and add it to this mess! But ****, I'm no 1%er, so let's buy a USED ONE!


RacingBeat 9lb flywheel + supercharger + A/C = WINNING! There is absolutely no way this can end poorly.

inb4terminalidledroopthread

Actually, I'm pulling it out of the BP4W engine & 5 speed trans I picked up as a spare. I really wanted a 6 speed but I got tired of looking. The one I did find is quite a ways away and without a 5th gear, I'm not driving up I-5 for a couple hours in 4th to go get it. I was also saving my monies so I could buy y8s Racing Beat header. The friction surface should be fine, It will get a very light sanding to remove the discoloration from its current slightly glazed state.

Not pictured:
Several quarts of some sort of magical Synthetic GL4
very used 5 speed

Probably Redline because Amsoil makes their **** impossible to purchase on any sort of short notice due to their pyramid scheme distribution system. I just need to read and figure out exactly what I want to use. I'm not married to Redline so I'm open to suggestions.

If I have time/if Gesso tolerates me in his garage all day Sunday:
MazdaComp Engine Mounts
Flyin' Miata Stainless frame rail braces
Flyin' Miata 2.5" Stainless midpipe w/cat (after I extract the plug from the o2 sensor bung. I'm already running the muffler and I swear its not loud at all)

**** I really should do, but neglected to obtain parts on time:
OEM shifter rebuild bushing set for 5 speed (didn't order because I thought I was going 6 speed)
Mazdacomp/Trackspeed/Beatrush "just the tip" metal shifter bushing

So not really "real" I guess, but as real as it gets for me anyway. Saturday I'm making beer. I'm thinking either an IPA or a California Common. IPA if I have the hops, California Common if I can get my temp controller working in my mini fridge. If it turns out some of those marks on the flywheel are burn spots, I'll call up Racing Beat and order a replacement friction ring and postpone this till 10th-11th. If the guys from 949 decide they want more hands at Buttonwillow, I'll push it back to the 17th-18th.

Can you tell my fiancee is out of town this weekend?

 

I assume DNW sent a PM offering you $800, "cause thats all i got".


Wrong time of year for a california common, good luck on the pile of parts. IPA is always good, but I prefer a scottish ale or belgian in fall.

 

Actually, the above is the ONLY contact I got from him.

I'm seriously Belgiand out right now. I did a 4.5~% saison, a farmhouse ale and a dubbel this summer. If I'd had my **** together about a month ago, I'd be drinking an Oktoberfest right now but I only just recently got the fridge. I've already got the grain and the hops for the common, and I DO love me a steam beer, so it needs to be used one way or the other. I've also got a really cold corner closet that would work perfectly. IPA is always a good decision, but I've got so much Cascade in the fridge that I'd probably end up with a Sierra Nevada clone no matter what I try to do.

A robust porter or a scotch ale would be badass, I'll have to look up some recipes.

 

A bunch of the guys around here are switching to Motul Gear 300 for tranny and diff with very good results.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, are you running it in a 5 speed? I've seen the Motul 300 mentioned a couple of times and I think my Napa actually carries it. I'd start a thread about it, but someone would scream at me to search and then the Amsoil MTG master race track junkies would check in and crap on me. Any chance you have a link to some sort of discussion on the 300?

I called 5 Amsoil dealers this morning and the one who answered the phone was the one who raped me on a clutch job about 4 years ago when I was stranded. I won't be doing business with him.

 

I thought Andrew carried that stuff?

 

Motul 300 = GL5. I've played this game before, do not want.

I thought I remembered seeing it on his site, but cannot find it now. He is also in Sunnyvale and that is a 150mi/2.5hr round trip in 4th gear on the highway. No bueno. I don't need to burn $40 worth of fuel to go buy $35 worth of oil. If I drove to Sunnyvale I'd end up at Fry's and I'd spend more money on stuff I really don't need.

I just found a bottle of Redline MT90 in the garage this morning. I can get Redline locally without violating my personal code of ethics so I'll go get a couple more and call it good. I need to go pick up about 7-8 gallons of water for brewing anyway.

 

That's a clutch/TOB fork sweetie. Shift fork is inside the trans.

I'm using Mitsubishi Diaqueen GL-4 transmission fluid in mine. Yes, for serious. I can actually shift smoothly into 1st gear after the car has been sitting all night, even at <40*, and once it's warmed up it's like buttah. Available at your local stealership.

 

Thusly I stand corrected.
Interesting development, however Redline is already in the bag. I'll save this one for future reading. maybe I'll call Mitsu parts and see if they monkeys know what I'm talking about.

 

Or go down to Furd and pick up some Motorcraft which is also great in our boxes

 

Mitsubishi Diaqueen GL-4: $100/gal. nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope
FoMoCo XT-M5-QS Synthetic: Parts departments for all Ford dealers near me are closed till Monday.
Redline MT-90: GL-4, generally accepted as safe, $13/qt, available everywhere.

I believe I tried XT-M5-QS about 3-4 years ago in my (currently broken) 5 speed. I had filled the trans with GL-5 Mobil 1 previously and progressively got worse and worse over a period of about 3-4 months until it would barely shift at speed. I changed it out for the Ford fluid and saw a decent improvement, but it never really got "good" again, like before the Mobil 1. After about 4 months on the Ford stuff, I had the previously mentioned clutch disaster and the rapist shop that did my clutch also changed my trans fluid to IDKWTF. I've been running IDKWTF for... 2-3 years now? My (currently broken) 5 speed never really felt that great to begin with and nothing really made it better, but the Motorcraft juice did feel significantly better than the Mobil 1.

If I could get the Motorcraft today, I'd probably give it another shot. If don't like the MT-90, the XT-M5-QS is the next step. I'm only into the fluid change for $13 at this point so its not going to break my back.

I also found the stock IAT sensor that I had to buy when my DIYPNP took a **** up at T-Hill a while back. I also found the receipt and the box so I returned it today. I forgot that damn thing was $68

 

That's ******* rape right there. My shop sells it for ten fiddy a quart.

Edit: We've also got some Amsoil gathering dust on a back shelf IIRC

 

At ten-fiddy, I'd give it a shot. The one Mitsu dealer parts department I was able to contact wanted that up front to order it by the gallon, bleh

 

Progress. Excellent.

Edit: I vote IPA as well.

It's been a while since I made my dunkelweizen ... time to break out the gear and clean it and see what I've lost since then.

 

So you know how people tell you about their abusive relationships and you say something like "Wow, that's really messed up, your relationship is poisonous and you need to get out while you can." Then they make excuses about how you wouldn't understand, and he's actually a really a nice guy, he only hits me when he's drunk, I'm sure he'll never cheat on me again, etc, etc, etc...

So I finally got out of that abusive relationship with my old transmission. I made excuses for years and kept telling myself that everything was fine, maybe I'm just no shifting correctly? Maybe its the wrong fluid? Maybe its temperamental when its hot/cold? No more, I am a free man now! New transmission is awesome. I merely think about shifting and its already in gear. No drama, no resistance, no fighting, just perfectly smooth gearchanges. Old transmission NEVER felt like this. Old transmission was also leaking fluids into the bell housing and out the tail shaft, plus there was a bit of slop and bearing noise in the input side. If I'm someday feeling adventurous, maybe I'll try and rebuild it as its quite obvious the synchros were absolutely done. There was so much yellow metal in the fluid that I had a hard time putting the drain plug back in after it built up on the threads while draining.

New FM clutch is also awesome. No more odd sounds from the throw out bearing when I step on the clutch. It DOES disengage WAY down by the floor now, but I can probably adjust some of that out. According to the instructions, this is to be expected from the FM and ACT clutches. We'll see. This thing feels exactly like my stock clutch. There is NO reason to fear this thing. Its so easy to operate that it makes me feel like the torque rating must be lies. Its sprung hub, full face and purple Word of warning though, brake cleaner will take the paint off the pressure plate. There is NO REASON to NOT buy this clutch. I need to figure out how to mentally break my "step on clutch to start car" process, as FM recommends that you just leave it in neutral when you start the car to help save you precious thrust bearings, and supplies a clever widget to bypass the clutch switch to facilitate this process.

Racing Beat flywheel is also awesome. Gesso let me abuse his roloc disc thing and I hit the friction surface to get it cleaned up, just enough to break through the layer of stuff from the previous clutch. Its really light. It takes far more mental focus to launch smoothly and seems to make things really revvy. Once you do get moving, there is no real drama. The engine drops revs quick so you need to pay attention to the timing on your gearchanges. I find myself blipping the throttle on occasion to help rev match when downshifting as I don't quite have the hang of that yet. It decided to be 90° here today so I tried the AC at lunchtime. LOL~NOPE! Car dies if its idling and the AC cycles. That's going to take a miracle to tune out.

FM 2.5" Turbo single is cool. It's louder but its not obnoxiously so. It does get a little boomy and it buzzes/rasps a bit under hard acceleration when its cold, but once it warms up its fine. I might pick up one of the big Vibrant resonators and see if it quiets things down at all. Again, Gesso to the rescue with the TIG welder. The post-cat bung plug in the midpipe was stuck fast. I was almost sure that it could not be saved, but he welded a flywheel bolt to it and turned it loose. Quite impressive! Things appear to be running slightly leaner now? I'll run some auto-tune against it on the way home tonight and see what it tries to do.

All in all, a LOT of work for a couple of very hung over dudes but I'm super satisfied with the results! Can't thank Gesso enough for putting up with me and working though this. Glad I can help him with his projects in return.

 

So I'm cruzing around on the internets trying to find a decent deal on Rotrex SX100 traction oil, and I discover this:

CR-Z Supercharger System | Jackson Racing

It uses the C30-74, aftermarket injectors and an ECU reflash, yet claims to be CARB compliant? LOLWUT?

Well, it looks like if I buy a CR-Z i can haz CARB EO Trying to decide if I should be bitter or not.