Dyno Results and vid for MP62
#22
First post over here, though I've lurked awhile . My suggestion here is that you should not have to up your pulley size to hit an easy 220rwhp. It is an already known quantity, with a 126/65 pulley ratio, air/air IC and good tuning you should hit 220-230rwhp. That is running a JR header and stock exhaust. If you are running one of the bar/plate ICs then I know the answer. It is the IC that is giving you the bottleneck. I ran into this issue many times and eventually did back to back dynos while at BRP to prove the problem. With near identical core sizes (8x16x2.5 if I remember correctly), the bar/plate cost nearly 20rwhp compared to the tube/fin (Track Dog Racing). I think it is an airflow issue. Putting on the TDR IC is like uncorking the SOB LOL. Another possibility is a clogged CAT. Simple way to test that though it loud as heck.
As far as tuning goes, I found that the best combination of power and reliability occurs with a relatively flat 12:1 a/f ratio across all rpm and running the timing around 20 deg. You can probably run the timing up to 23-24 deg without ping on the dyno, but I would suggest backing it down to 20 to be on the safe side on the street and track.
Finally, I don't think there is huge gain you would see with a 2.5" exhaust. Removal of the cat will probably be the largest gain. The problem, I think, is the JR header is the bottleneck. This is a problem with the Hotsides. The Gibb header was very promising but it didn't work out unfortunately.
Bill
As far as tuning goes, I found that the best combination of power and reliability occurs with a relatively flat 12:1 a/f ratio across all rpm and running the timing around 20 deg. You can probably run the timing up to 23-24 deg without ping on the dyno, but I would suggest backing it down to 20 to be on the safe side on the street and track.
Finally, I don't think there is huge gain you would see with a 2.5" exhaust. Removal of the cat will probably be the largest gain. The problem, I think, is the JR header is the bottleneck. This is a problem with the Hotsides. The Gibb header was very promising but it didn't work out unfortunately.
Bill
#23
First post over here, though I've lurked awhile . My suggestion here is that you should not have to up your pulley size to hit an easy 220rwhp. It is an already known quantity, with a 126/65 pulley ratio, air/air IC and good tuning you should hit 220-230rwhp. That is running a JR header and stock exhaust. If you are running one of the bar/plate ICs then I know the answer. It is the IC that is giving you the bottleneck. I ran into this issue many times and eventually did back to back dynos while at BRP to prove the problem. With near identical core sizes (8x16x2.5 if I remember correctly), the bar/plate cost nearly 20rwhp compared to the tube/fin (Track Dog Racing). I think it is an airflow issue. Putting on the TDR IC is like uncorking the SOB LOL. Another possibility is a clogged CAT. Simple way to test that though it loud as heck.
As far as tuning goes, I found that the best combination of power and reliability occurs with a relatively flat 12:1 a/f ratio across all rpm and running the timing around 20 deg. You can probably run the timing up to 23-24 deg without ping on the dyno, but I would suggest backing it down to 20 to be on the safe side on the street and track.
Finally, I don't think there is huge gain you would see with a 2.5" exhaust. Removal of the cat will probably be the largest gain. The problem, I think, is the JR header is the bottleneck. This is a problem with the Hotsides. The Gibb header was very promising but it didn't work out unfortunately.
Bill
As far as tuning goes, I found that the best combination of power and reliability occurs with a relatively flat 12:1 a/f ratio across all rpm and running the timing around 20 deg. You can probably run the timing up to 23-24 deg without ping on the dyno, but I would suggest backing it down to 20 to be on the safe side on the street and track.
Finally, I don't think there is huge gain you would see with a 2.5" exhaust. Removal of the cat will probably be the largest gain. The problem, I think, is the JR header is the bottleneck. This is a problem with the Hotsides. The Gibb header was very promising but it didn't work out unfortunately.
Bill
#28
Thanks Rafa! I know I have said this years ago, but one of these days I am going to get a 510 again. Really miss that car.
My Miata is currently back to normally aspirated. I removed the Hotside because the times got a bit rough and I needed the money. However, it looks like that situation is only going to be temporary. More on that later ...
Bill
My Miata is currently back to normally aspirated. I removed the Hotside because the times got a bit rough and I needed the money. However, it looks like that situation is only going to be temporary. More on that later ...
Bill
#29
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Thanks Rafa! I know I have said this years ago, but one of these days I am going to get a 510 again. Really miss that car.
My Miata is currently back to normally aspirated. I removed the Hotside because the times got a bit rough and I needed the money. However, it looks like that situation is only going to be temporary. More on that later ...
Bill
My Miata is currently back to normally aspirated. I removed the Hotside because the times got a bit rough and I needed the money. However, it looks like that situation is only going to be temporary. More on that later ...
Bill
#32
The key is long primaries=POWER!
Funny how you need the extra horsies. I have a Brand NEW Gibb/Boig header that will guarantee you 12-17 horse (dyno proven) increase just from the bolt on. Problem is when I bought this header it was listed as a 1.6 header when it is actually a 1.8. PM me for pics and price. This header IS NOT for the faint of heart. You might get leaks until the primaries heat up and expand. Slip on primaires that are 1 5/8". All ***** stuff. Here is a pic:
You are in an excellent place because you are only supposed to run this header if you generate 200+hp.
There is a guy with a 1.6 Tec2 Autorotor making 225 with a boig. I know you can do more. see it here: http://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment...chmentid=38527
Funny how you need the extra horsies. I have a Brand NEW Gibb/Boig header that will guarantee you 12-17 horse (dyno proven) increase just from the bolt on. Problem is when I bought this header it was listed as a 1.6 header when it is actually a 1.8. PM me for pics and price. This header IS NOT for the faint of heart. You might get leaks until the primaries heat up and expand. Slip on primaires that are 1 5/8". All ***** stuff. Here is a pic:
You are in an excellent place because you are only supposed to run this header if you generate 200+hp.
There is a guy with a 1.6 Tec2 Autorotor making 225 with a boig. I know you can do more. see it here: http://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment...chmentid=38527
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