91 supercharged Miata and no clue what I'm doing.
#1
91 supercharged Miata and no clue what I'm doing.
So I just picked up another Miata this time a 91 NA6 with a no name supercharger, I say no name cause I can not find a logo, a sticker, a stamp or a serial number anywhere but I've also only looked on top of the SC and in my door jams.
So the car idled ok and I shouldn't have touched it but I wanted this boost gauge to work so I did some fiddling and blocked off the open air T fitting and attempted to adjust my idle air screw thinking I'll just turn it back if it doesn't work, well Nothing worked and now my idle is really slow to come down when I press the gas and pretty high about 1200 and I can't get it to come back down to it's original 1000 Rpm idle. Any help is welcome
d
So the car idled ok and I shouldn't have touched it but I wanted this boost gauge to work so I did some fiddling and blocked off the open air T fitting and attempted to adjust my idle air screw thinking I'll just turn it back if it doesn't work, well Nothing worked and now my idle is really slow to come down when I press the gas and pretty high about 1200 and I can't get it to come back down to it's original 1000 Rpm idle. Any help is welcome
d
#2
I think it's an old Sebring M45 based on the metal intake tube and unmarked outlet. Either way the kit is close enough to a Jackson Racing M45 (JRSC), with exception of the fueling stuff.
Not really sure what' shown here. The second pic looks like the Tee is still open...? If so, that's your vacuum leak and why it's idling high. I'd put everything back, and instead, tee your boost gauge reference line connected to the AFPR. That way, you're certain you're seeing the same boost pressure as the AFPR for future troubleshooting.
Not really sure what' shown here. The second pic looks like the Tee is still open...? If so, that's your vacuum leak and why it's idling high. I'd put everything back, and instead, tee your boost gauge reference line connected to the AFPR. That way, you're certain you're seeing the same boost pressure as the AFPR for future troubleshooting.
#4
I think it's an old Sebring M45 based on the metal intake tube and unmarked outlet. Either way the kit is close enough to a Jackson Racing M45 (JRSC), with exception of the fueling stuff.
Not really sure what' shown here. The second pic looks like the Tee is still open...? If so, that's your vacuum leak and why it's idling high. I'd put everything back, and instead, tee your boost gauge reference line connected to the AFPR. That way, you're certain you're seeing the same boost pressure as the AFPR for future troubleshooting.
Not really sure what' shown here. The second pic looks like the Tee is still open...? If so, that's your vacuum leak and why it's idling high. I'd put everything back, and instead, tee your boost gauge reference line connected to the AFPR. That way, you're certain you're seeing the same boost pressure as the AFPR for future troubleshooting.
Another question do I need an ignition timing control or is that just something that could be added to help?
Ps, I got bad punctuation I'm still working on it.
#5
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If you don't have ignition timing control already on the car then you better hope the supercharger is worn out and not making much boost. Ideally you would like control over both ignition and fueling, as with a megasquirt. A used megasquirt 1 should be just a few hundred dollars if you have no money to work with.
#6
Yup. That's a jackson racing M45 kit. It's a later kit since it has the flat pulley on the supercharger. You can download a PDF of the instructions to make sure everything is installed correctly. The bypass can should be hooked to the manifold just after the throttle body on the back of the supercharger.
T into the FPR line or the fitting on the intake manifold for the boost guage.
T into the FPR line or the fitting on the intake manifold for the boost guage.
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10-13-2015 04:22 PM