I am disappoint.
#22
So if timing is good the only way I could be making 200whp at 19psi (assuming VD is accurate) would be low compression right? That jives with my ability to run 19psi on stock ignition with no spark blowout. I'm also on stock fuel pump with 50% ethanol content and not running out of pump.
Compression and leakdown come tomorrow. I'm now wishing I had measured the length of the ebay rods before I put them in.
#25
No boost gauge. I have 2 pressure sensors. 1 for realtime baro and 1 for map. I just took a 10 second log with key on engine off. The map sensor fluctuates from 89.8-90.2 (maybe fluctuating from wind since valve cover is off). The sensor for baro is pretty much solid it 90.4. That should be accurate since I'm at ~3200 ft elevation.
#26
Edit: Sorry I missed that you said it was on a cold start. Looks like compression is the culprit. Here's hopin for bad valves.
#29
Results are in.
Leakdown:
#1-13%
#2-22%
#3-9%
#4-9%
Compression Gauge #1
#1-125
#2-117
#3-121
#4-128
Compression Gauge #2
#1-161
#2-140
#3-152
#4-162
Leakdown points to exhaust valves. I got a rebuilt head through a core exchange service on ebay. Has less than 1000 miles on it but I'm pretty suspicious of the work performed. I found missing pieces in 3 or 4 hydraulic lifters.
I'm not completely convinced the numbers are bad enough to be responsible for the lack of power but I can't come up with anything else. I think I'll clean up the tune and pay the $75 to put the car on a local dyno to see what it's actually at.
I also disconnected the exhaust at the turbo and took a quick drive. No noticeable improvement.
Leakdown:
#1-13%
#2-22%
#3-9%
#4-9%
Compression Gauge #1
#1-125
#2-117
#3-121
#4-128
Compression Gauge #2
#1-161
#2-140
#3-152
#4-162
Leakdown points to exhaust valves. I got a rebuilt head through a core exchange service on ebay. Has less than 1000 miles on it but I'm pretty suspicious of the work performed. I found missing pieces in 3 or 4 hydraulic lifters.
I'm not completely convinced the numbers are bad enough to be responsible for the lack of power but I can't come up with anything else. I think I'll clean up the tune and pay the $75 to put the car on a local dyno to see what it's actually at.
I also disconnected the exhaust at the turbo and took a quick drive. No noticeable improvement.
#30
Alright so I couldn't leave it alone. I moved cam timing a tooth in relation to the crank. It's soooo much better.
So if the pics I posted show a properly timed engine and moving timing a tooth made a significant improvement then the logical conclusion is that the damper has slipped. Correct?
This is the same 4th gear pull to 5k from my first post.
This is a 4th gear pull to 5k after changing the cam timing.
Nearly half as much time to go from 3k to 5k.
So if the pics I posted show a properly timed engine and moving timing a tooth made a significant improvement then the logical conclusion is that the damper has slipped. Correct?
This is the same 4th gear pull to 5k from my first post.
This is a 4th gear pull to 5k after changing the cam timing.
Nearly half as much time to go from 3k to 5k.
#32
That pull was 224hp 243 lbft at 5k and climbing. 17psi. Not setting the world on fire but if the damper slipped then my ignition timing is going to be off as well
#33
I don't think it's a key way issue. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the issue is that the damper is made up of two pieces separated by rubber. When the rubber gets old and weak the outer piece which has the timing marks will rotate in relation to the inner piece.
That pull was 224hp 243 lbft at 5k and climbing. 17psi. Not setting the world on fire but if the damper slipped then my ignition timing is going to be off as well
That pull was 224hp 243 lbft at 5k and climbing. 17psi. Not setting the world on fire but if the damper slipped then my ignition timing is going to be off as well
#35
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That difference in results definitely points to a failure of a 20 year old rubber damper. The part that doesn't move is the notch in the crank pulley, which is the part you should be lining up with the cam timing marks. The timing marks on the damper are only for the spark timing.
So show us the crank timing mark and the cam timing marks at the same time, please.
So show us the crank timing mark and the cam timing marks at the same time, please.