MKTurbo Sale Thread
#1781
Originally Posted by 24n46
This?
#1782
Yeah exactly that one, my elbow was a fair bit bigger then the turbo inlet I didn't think it would compress down far enough to fit on there so I put the air filter directly onto it Attachment 220476Attachment 220477 sorry I don't have a picture this second of the comparison of how much bigger it is on mine
#1783
Thanks a bunch for your help; great support group here for all experience levels. I'm a bit of a noob at this but have learned quite a bit in doing the project (along with some other mods to the car).
Now that you have pointed me in the right direction, I'll try to find US stock so I can get it sooner. Still have not given up on Lars but I need to get everything sorted before a track event coming up in early May. Once I get everything to where I can trust the setup, I am planning on writing up my experience here to benefit others (it won't help any experienced guys but beginners may benefit).
Nik
Now that you have pointed me in the right direction, I'll try to find US stock so I can get it sooner. Still have not given up on Lars but I need to get everything sorted before a track event coming up in early May. Once I get everything to where I can trust the setup, I am planning on writing up my experience here to benefit others (it won't help any experienced guys but beginners may benefit).
Nik
#1794
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I wasted 2 turbos, but they were both my fault. I had major boost leaks both times and spun them to infinity. Be sure to rule out anything like that, before upgrading to a high dollar version. It would suck to have the same thing happen.
#1795
I bet this is what you're looking for:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/468100-0000...NaxJkx&vxp=mtr
I bet the CHRA on all these T3 eBay turbos is the same. And that kit is more likely to fit vs. a genuine Garrett kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/468100-0000...NaxJkx&vxp=mtr
I bet the CHRA on all these T3 eBay turbos is the same. And that kit is more likely to fit vs. a genuine Garrett kit.
I rebuilt the old turbo with a similar kit from a USA seller so I got it rather quick. I reinstalled the old turbo and its running great; no more leaks. The seal on the exhaust side was probably bad & everything else looked fine but I ended up replacing the two journal bearings as well.
For anyone else who may be concerned about doing this, I'd say its fairly straight forward and so try it out before you chuck the turbo. There is one important thing to make sure that the shaft is balanced when you put the nut back on (mark the nut with the turbine wheel on the compressor side and make sure when you tighten it down the marks line up - mine already had a mark and I put an additional one just in case - I noticed after I decided to open it up again and replace the bearings anyway that my marks with a sharpie had faded - so maybe scour a mark with an exacto knife). I don't know how long it will last the way I did it as some people on forums have suggested that you have to rebalance it and this procedure won't last, but it is worth a try than throwing the whole thing out. I guess time will tell.
#1796
Nuts and Heat
First of all the good news. The car was a blast to drive at autox. Did quite well.
At the end of the autox session, I found a few issues which I need help with.
Nuts) I had the exhaust tightened quite a bit towards the transmission and it was running very good without any more [significant] vibrations or noise. After the session, the exhaust nuts had vibrated a bit loose (both at the turbo end and the downpipe - maybe even the one at the back of the mid pipe - although I have to fully raise the car to check that one out). Anyone know of better nuts to use that would be less prone to backing off on the T-bolt clamps? Or just use an extra nut, i.e. double nuts.
Heat) Car had overheated at the end of the session. It is an NB2 so I was not sure if a coolant reroute was necessary as my forum searches left me a bit unsure if it is really necessary with the NB2. I had put in a Stant 45868 180 degree thermostat, mishimoto MMRAD-MIA-99 radiator (still using OEM fans). I did not change the coolant mix from 50:50 to mostly water (with water wetter) as it was autox and not HPDE so I just took a chance. Is a coolant reroute absolutely necessary for NB2s or should I give it a shot with just mostly water the next time around. Are fan upgrades necessary?
At the end of the autox session, I found a few issues which I need help with.
Nuts) I had the exhaust tightened quite a bit towards the transmission and it was running very good without any more [significant] vibrations or noise. After the session, the exhaust nuts had vibrated a bit loose (both at the turbo end and the downpipe - maybe even the one at the back of the mid pipe - although I have to fully raise the car to check that one out). Anyone know of better nuts to use that would be less prone to backing off on the T-bolt clamps? Or just use an extra nut, i.e. double nuts.
Heat) Car had overheated at the end of the session. It is an NB2 so I was not sure if a coolant reroute was necessary as my forum searches left me a bit unsure if it is really necessary with the NB2. I had put in a Stant 45868 180 degree thermostat, mishimoto MMRAD-MIA-99 radiator (still using OEM fans). I did not change the coolant mix from 50:50 to mostly water (with water wetter) as it was autox and not HPDE so I just took a chance. Is a coolant reroute absolutely necessary for NB2s or should I give it a shot with just mostly water the next time around. Are fan upgrades necessary?
#1797
That setup should not have overheated. I personally think the Mishi radiator is garbage and indistinguishable from the $95 ebay radiator, except for the crappier finish and welds, but it's plenty big to handle some autocross.
Stock fans are also fine and better than most aftermarket fans short of SPAL/FAL.
Do you have an undertray and/or ducting?
Stock fans are also fine and better than most aftermarket fans short of SPAL/FAL.
Do you have an undertray and/or ducting?
#1798
That setup should not have overheated. I personally think the Mishi radiator is garbage and indistinguishable from the $95 ebay radiator, except for the crappier finish and welds, but it's plenty big to handle some autocross.
Stock fans are also fine and better than most aftermarket fans short of SPAL/FAL.
Do you have an undertray and/or ducting?
Stock fans are also fine and better than most aftermarket fans short of SPAL/FAL.
Do you have an undertray and/or ducting?
Now that I know it should not have overheated, I will definitely look into fixing that gap with the undertray and look into ducting. Thanks.
I did not know that the radiator was garbage. I got it when my OEM radiator had sprung a leak. What do you recommend as I will be sure to change it to a better one when this one goes?
#1799
First of all the good news. The car was a blast to drive at autox. Did quite well.
At the end of the autox session, I found a few issues which I need help with.
Nuts) I had the exhaust tightened quite a bit towards the transmission and it was running very good without any more [significant] vibrations or noise. After the session, the exhaust nuts had vibrated a bit loose (both at the turbo end and the downpipe - maybe even the one at the back of the mid pipe - although I have to fully raise the car to check that one out). Anyone know of better nuts to use that would be less prone to backing off on the T-bolt clamps? Or just use an extra nut, i.e. double nuts.
At the end of the autox session, I found a few issues which I need help with.
Nuts) I had the exhaust tightened quite a bit towards the transmission and it was running very good without any more [significant] vibrations or noise. After the session, the exhaust nuts had vibrated a bit loose (both at the turbo end and the downpipe - maybe even the one at the back of the mid pipe - although I have to fully raise the car to check that one out). Anyone know of better nuts to use that would be less prone to backing off on the T-bolt clamps? Or just use an extra nut, i.e. double nuts.