smoked my clutch, what should I get now?
#41
Well, I should have said, don't waste your money on parts that FM resells. They purposely use low cost parts. I have had nothing but early parts failures from them. clutch slaves (two of them rusted out and leaked in under 6 months) throw out bearings/release bearings (one early failure and the replacement was defective) pressure plate (defective and was causing clutch slip with stock power levels)
I just tell people to steer clear of their low cost high volume high profit parts. Just my opinion and experience with them.
I've gone though 3 clutches in 3 years, and I'm finally happy with the sprung pucked 949 clutch. They have a lower profit margin, much higher quality components.
Sure I only have stock power levels, but I'm just giving my input on clutches. I don't want other people to deal with the crap I've dealt with, just trying to look out for members if I can help them. If I'm wrong, fine, but I'm still steering people towards the higher quality clutch.
I just tell people to steer clear of their low cost high volume high profit parts. Just my opinion and experience with them.
I've gone though 3 clutches in 3 years, and I'm finally happy with the sprung pucked 949 clutch. They have a lower profit margin, much higher quality components.
Sure I only have stock power levels, but I'm just giving my input on clutches. I don't want other people to deal with the crap I've dealt with, just trying to look out for members if I can help them. If I'm wrong, fine, but I'm still steering people towards the higher quality clutch.
#44
I went with FM2 on my last rebuild and found it to be both strong and comfortable. Basically stock feel but way stronger. I don't mean it's exactly like a stock clutch (which was incredibly soft) just much closer to stock feel than my old six puck setup.
Only really notable things about it compared to stock are:
Only really notable things about it compared to stock are:
- Long pedal travel. Really long. You will have to adjust stuff.
- Slightly stiff but nothing terrible. I'm guessing this is paid for via long pedal travel
- Easy to engage/modulate
#45
When my clutch slipped on the dyno I had it sent in and CC said nothing was wrong, car just overpowered it. Sent me a new one anyway and FM sold me a brand new one for half off. Sold those and bought the 949 Twin disk.
FM was easier to drive, I just wish it held up. Twin disk isn't so bad, but it's a sharper engagement way up high as adjusted per instructions.
#46
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Correct flywheel machining is paramount for clutch life, especially in a Miata.
The relationship between the flywheel surface AND the "steps" is often overlooked.
The "depth", meaning, how far the bosses stick out from the flywheel surface should be no more than 19 mm, and 18.65 mm is the ideal depth.
I have seen flywheels with over 20 mm depth, and one at 22 mm.
This significantly reduces clamping force and friction material life.
I stay right at 18.65 - 18.70 mm, and have not had a clutch problem ever since I found out about this little tidbit.
All you need is a straightedge and calipers, and you can measure your flywheel before installation to save a ton of headache later.
The relationship between the flywheel surface AND the "steps" is often overlooked.
The "depth", meaning, how far the bosses stick out from the flywheel surface should be no more than 19 mm, and 18.65 mm is the ideal depth.
I have seen flywheels with over 20 mm depth, and one at 22 mm.
This significantly reduces clamping force and friction material life.
I stay right at 18.65 - 18.70 mm, and have not had a clutch problem ever since I found out about this little tidbit.
All you need is a straightedge and calipers, and you can measure your flywheel before installation to save a ton of headache later.