The Better Bilstein Ebay Coilover Thread
#1482
A decent spring supplier is Faulkner, for anyone in Europe.
Suspension springs for the Motorsport Industry | D Faulkner Springs LLP
Suspension springs for the Motorsport Industry | D Faulkner Springs LLP
#1485
I pressed this bushing into my hard-S'.
Fit just fine.
Fit just fine.
If this works, my posterity will sing praises to your name (and my posterior).
Last edited by BAHKACK; 04-11-2018 at 09:47 PM.
#1486
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Yes.
It was quite a few years ago, but as I remember, I cut the old sleeve out because it was mangled.
The new bushing pressed into the bare eyelet.
EDIT: I just remembered a key piece of information.
I had to drill the center a bit because it's slightly smaller.
It wasn't difficult, but be aware of that.
Also go slowly if you do. You don't want to put a bunch of heat into the rubber.
It was quite a few years ago, but as I remember, I cut the old sleeve out because it was mangled.
The new bushing pressed into the bare eyelet.
EDIT: I just remembered a key piece of information.
I had to drill the center a bit because it's slightly smaller.
It wasn't difficult, but be aware of that.
Also go slowly if you do. You don't want to put a bunch of heat into the rubber.
Last edited by Monk; 04-12-2018 at 09:40 AM.
#1488
What about burning out the old rubber, and replacing it with liquid polyurethane? (like the stuff for DIY motor mounts).
Tape off the backside of the eyelet, make a hole in it to centre the middle sleeve in both dimensions, secure with more tape. Then pour in some 60 or 70A poly.
Tape off the backside of the eyelet, make a hole in it to centre the middle sleeve in both dimensions, secure with more tape. Then pour in some 60 or 70A poly.
#1489
So I got into making my own Poly bushings using comercial 2 part polyurethane compound. I could get everything from 60 to 90 dur but what did the project in was that it had a knack for cold flowing. Meaning over time it would deform and squish out no matter which durometer I used.
The molds we're easy to make out of delrin, the project had great promise but I was never able to find a compound that would hold up.
The molds we're easy to make out of delrin, the project had great promise but I was never able to find a compound that would hold up.
#1490
Sorry for the double post, but found the KYB bushings cheaper at summit .
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...QaAmp2EALw_wcB
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...QaAmp2EALw_wcB
#1491
I pressed this bushing into my hard-S'.
Fit just fine.
Fit just fine.
Sorry for the double post, but found the KYB bushings cheaper at summit .
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...QaAmp2EALw_wcB
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...QaAmp2EALw_wcB
#1493
Okie dokie, finally did that thing I said I would.
As stated before, FM's website claims that the rear mounts for the Mazdaspeed shocks are higher than the stock ones. I know we've already established that the Mazdaspeed shocks are the same length, but I'd like to see if the mounts are at the same height. Could someone with unmolested Yellow NB Billies take these same measurements?
I figure the aluminum spring seats are physically the same part. If there is any difference in height, Bilstein probably just moved the circlip. I'm willing to consider pressing these off and get new grooves cut in there to make the FM springs work, but I might just go with the stock MS springs if that is the case.
As stated before, FM's website claims that the rear mounts for the Mazdaspeed shocks are higher than the stock ones. I know we've already established that the Mazdaspeed shocks are the same length, but I'd like to see if the mounts are at the same height. Could someone with unmolested Yellow NB Billies take these same measurements?
I figure the aluminum spring seats are physically the same part. If there is any difference in height, Bilstein probably just moved the circlip. I'm willing to consider pressing these off and get new grooves cut in there to make the FM springs work, but I might just go with the stock MS springs if that is the case.
#1499
Take note: They're only 20mm. Entirely appropriate for fronts. Rears will be up to you. I'd try them, but might not be enough travel for some, and i already had 1.5" extended units i'm using in the back.
Also: You will have to glue your spring isolators to them.
#1500
I’m doing 6” 550/335(6k) +helpers
i want to be 11 3/4f 12 3/8 ish
i need to get my collars down farther away from the top hats.
I didn’t see on the 75 pages of posts that you can flip the Advance collars over and seat them on the circlips on the chamfered side quite happily. This gets the collar down another 1/2” or so.
I don’t want the collars smacking into the spring retainers that I’ve got milled into the bottom of my tophats. Frt/rr with collars normal vs flipped. Also gets the rings lower. Im sure it’ll jam up against the chamfered lip and never come loose. I’ll likely never get them off.
I may just cut lower groove but I’ll try this first.
Garrett approves.
i want to be 11 3/4f 12 3/8 ish
i need to get my collars down farther away from the top hats.
I didn’t see on the 75 pages of posts that you can flip the Advance collars over and seat them on the circlips on the chamfered side quite happily. This gets the collar down another 1/2” or so.
I don’t want the collars smacking into the spring retainers that I’ve got milled into the bottom of my tophats. Frt/rr with collars normal vs flipped. Also gets the rings lower. Im sure it’ll jam up against the chamfered lip and never come loose. I’ll likely never get them off.
I may just cut lower groove but I’ll try this first.
Garrett approves.
Last edited by BAHKACK; 04-21-2018 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Spelling