TSE EFR NB2 Build Thread
#1061
never said I wanted to do that myself. Im actually in the middle of swapping the motor in my daily e36 due to a blown head gasket. NOT FUN. Screw german engineering.
THANKS IAN! Question, what is "slop", and shim min and max (where did you get these numbers from?), lastly, "available shims" I have no shims less than 3.xxxx, soooo r u saying I need to decrease by .2 for example? I was just gonna subtract the spec clearance from my clearance and add that number to shim size.
I dropped your numbers into my valve shim spreadsheet. All the gaps are too small right now, but if you swap shims around you can probably get by with only needing to buy 4 or 5 new ones. They're $7 each from Mazdacomp, dunno what they cost at a dealer.
http://www.codrus.com/misc/valves-george.xlsx
(I recommend double-checking the specs & measurement numbers before buying stuff)
--Ian
http://www.codrus.com/misc/valves-george.xlsx
(I recommend double-checking the specs & measurement numbers before buying stuff)
--Ian
Last edited by icantlearn; 04-06-2018 at 07:48 PM.
#1062
THANKS IAN! Question, what is "slop", and shim min and max (where did you get these numbers from?), lastly, "available shims" I have no shims less than 3.xxxx, soooo r u saying I need to decrease by .2 for example? I was just gonna subtract the spec clearance from my clearance and add that number to shim size.
measured shim + measured gap == total gap.
shim max == total gap - minimum spec gap
shim min == total gap - maximum spec gap
"available shims" are the sizes that Mazda has for sale.
To use the spreadsheet, you pick a shim size for a given valve (between the calculated "min" and "max" values) and add it to the appropriate cell ("new shim"). It then calculates the "new gap", and "slop" tells you how much larger than the minimum that new gap is. If you're aiming to get everything to the minimum spec, then you want all of the "slop" values to be as low as possible. Assume that you can re-use all of the shims that are currently in there, so spend a bit of time shuffling them around in software to fix as many valves as possible, then pick sizes out of "available shims" list to fill in the others. Then you can order those, put them in, and measure it to see how close you got it.
Some people argue that for a turbo track motor you should be increasing the minimum gap from the factory number. Doesn't seem to have been an issue for me, though.
--Ian
#1064
I dropped your numbers into my valve shim spreadsheet. All the gaps are too small right now, but if you swap shims around you can probably get by with only needing to buy 4 or 5 new ones. They're $7 each from Mazdacomp, dunno what they cost at a dealer.
http://www.codrus.com/misc/valves-george.xlsx
(I recommend double-checking the specs & measurement numbers before buying stuff)
--Ian
http://www.codrus.com/misc/valves-george.xlsx
(I recommend double-checking the specs & measurement numbers before buying stuff)
--Ian
#1066
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 3,107
Total Cats: 560
I gave my machinist my clearances before the work, he said that if it needed to be changed he would do it included for what I had already paid. You should at least ask how much to adjust some of the clearances. The correct shims would be good too though, as usual Ian always has helpful information.
#1067
I gave my machinist my clearances before the work, he said that if it needed to be changed he would do it included for what I had already paid. You should at least ask how much to adjust some of the clearances. The correct shims would be good too though, as usual Ian always has helpful information.
#1070
This was the list of available shims I posted last year with part numbers.
[Current as of 4/5/17]
Z5Y1-12-541 > 2.750MM
Z5Y2-12-541 > 2.800MM
Z5Y3-12-541 > 2.850MM
Z5Y4-12-541 > 2.900MM
Z5Y5-12-541 > 2.950MM
Z5Y6-12-541 > 3.000MM
Z502-12-545 > 3.052MM
Z502-12-552 > 3.100MM
Z502-12-558 > 3.148MM
Z502-12-565 > 3.196MM
Z502-12-573 > 3.252MM
Z502-12-579 > 3.300MM
Z502-12-586 > 3.348MM
Z502-12-593 > 3.396MM
From here: Lifter Shims
Edit: Looks like the 2.750 shim is still available after checking online.
[Current as of 4/5/17]
Z5Y1-12-541 > 2.750MM
Z5Y2-12-541 > 2.800MM
Z5Y3-12-541 > 2.850MM
Z5Y4-12-541 > 2.900MM
Z5Y5-12-541 > 2.950MM
Z5Y6-12-541 > 3.000MM
Z502-12-545 > 3.052MM
Z502-12-552 > 3.100MM
Z502-12-558 > 3.148MM
Z502-12-565 > 3.196MM
Z502-12-573 > 3.252MM
Z502-12-579 > 3.300MM
Z502-12-586 > 3.348MM
Z502-12-593 > 3.396MM
From here: Lifter Shims
Edit: Looks like the 2.750 shim is still available after checking online.
#1072
So you're aiming for the minimum size shim everywhere to get the maximum sized gap?
Your list has a few cases in which you're actually slightly over the maximum gap, and has you buying 12 shims. In theory you could get away with 10 if you're willing to have some on the smaller end of the spec range.
Looks like it'll work, though.
--Ian
Your list has a few cases in which you're actually slightly over the maximum gap, and has you buying 12 shims. In theory you could get away with 10 if you're willing to have some on the smaller end of the spec range.
Looks like it'll work, though.
--Ian
#1075
Yes. There are 2 that are slightly over. I caught that earlier and fixed one of them. The other one I can’t do anything about. It’s still in spec within a hundredth. I figure it being over by a few thou isn’t the end of the world. If anything it will heat up into spec range.
#1076
I understand but im not sure 5 thou of a mm is enough to cause serious issues. spec range just goes to hundredths. So idk how crucial it is. But I made some changes anyways. The blue are shims I can reuse for the intake side. Red are shims I can reuse for exhaust side. Black are shims have to buy.
#1077
Brown Santa came. He left me things for the motor. Shims, gaskets, etc.
I also went to Santa Sav. Where I obtained more things for the motor (brake fluid not for motor heh). Ur looking at a trigger wheel for supermiata damper, gates racing timing belt, ARP head studs, and supertech valve springs.
Upon opening the blue box, I was surprised to see new retainers and those other things in there. I thought I was just gonna get springs....cool.
Such springs....much wow.
Also, question, is this rubber thing on the right way? Nobody seems to show online.
I also went to Santa Sav. Where I obtained more things for the motor (brake fluid not for motor heh). Ur looking at a trigger wheel for supermiata damper, gates racing timing belt, ARP head studs, and supertech valve springs.
Upon opening the blue box, I was surprised to see new retainers and those other things in there. I thought I was just gonna get springs....cool.
Such springs....much wow.
Also, question, is this rubber thing on the right way? Nobody seems to show online.
#1079
BTW, when you put them on, you need to use both the stock thin washer thing as well as the Supertech spacer. I put them all on without the stock one then had to take it apart and do it over again.
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1335145
--Ian
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1335145
--Ian
#1080
Not sure how many head jobs you've done, but there's this amazing trick to getting your valve keepers seated. Basically, do this:
1) start your valve keepers on the top of your valve. They'll align and seat flush with the spring retainer and the tip of the valve stem just with finger pressure
2) slip in a heavy Ziploc bag between your spring compressor and the spring retainer
3) compress the spring
The plastic bag gets trapped by the spring compressor and pushes in the valve keepers. Since it's plastic, it can deform and wiggle as needed. it will stretch out little dimples in the bag, so you might burn through a couple bags doing the whole head. Sometimes you'll have better luck doubling up the bag to get more tension out of it. Here's a link with a couple pics I shot of me doing this process. It's amazingly fast and easy compared to any other technique I've ever tried.
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...5/#post1419278
1) start your valve keepers on the top of your valve. They'll align and seat flush with the spring retainer and the tip of the valve stem just with finger pressure
2) slip in a heavy Ziploc bag between your spring compressor and the spring retainer
3) compress the spring
The plastic bag gets trapped by the spring compressor and pushes in the valve keepers. Since it's plastic, it can deform and wiggle as needed. it will stretch out little dimples in the bag, so you might burn through a couple bags doing the whole head. Sometimes you'll have better luck doubling up the bag to get more tension out of it. Here's a link with a couple pics I shot of me doing this process. It's amazingly fast and easy compared to any other technique I've ever tried.
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...5/#post1419278