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I guess it's technically not pre-order, it's just the reduced price when they're out of stock. But as Monk said, they come back in Feb 15th and will go back up to $800.
Rather than create an account on weldingweb.com and immediately start spamming them, I'm going to spam you guys instead.
I'm looking for a TIG which can do basic car-related welding. I do want to do the honda IM mod, so it needs to be powerful enough to weld the cast aluminum on the IM, I can't really think of anything on the car I would be welding that is thicker.
I'd like to spend under a grand, since I know I will need plenty of money for gas/materials to practice.
The one thing that scares me is that the foot pedal apparently controls the entire range (5-185 amps) instead of up to what the controls are set at. I've only used a Miller Diversion 180, so I immagine going to a pedal like that would be quite different.
What do you gays think?
I would tell you that you can't go wrong with a Miller.
It works well enough - though I didn't really have much of an issue with the stock pedal - I'd put my toe on the box and press on the pedal with my heel. This one is a little more comfortable.
Originally Posted by Roda
For those with the AHP welder, I just ordered one of these:
So far I've been really pleased with the Alphatig! I've been away from TIG for a while, so I've got some catching back up to do, but it's so nice having a TIG in the garage now.
Stainless exhaust weld, I pumped a bit too much heat into this one:
Then I made a boot rack out of horseshoes for my brothers birthday gift:
acedeuce:
you purging that stainless?
its mostly torch angle and gas coverage. you can weld something so hot the whole part glows, but good gas coverage will keep it looking fresh. depending how much heat you put into it, will determine how far you can move and how much post you need.
If you practice you can get the torch angle down so you get good penetration with less heat and then you can travel further per bead without loosing coverage. that's why you see all the instagram welders using those 2" welding cups LOL. you waste a lot of gas at 30cfh but those cups let you go further on one weld.
I haven't got a purge setup yet, I'll be picking up a second tank soon. For now, I'm using solar flux. This was using a gas lens with a standard #8 cup I think, about 18 cfh. Thanks for the tips, I basically just have experience from FSAE and hobby welding, no professional experience or advice so all is welcome. I never really thought about that, how torch angle will keep the previous weld covered while you move along the bead.
yeah, on round pipe you have to keep torch angle as you go around the pipe. if your learning and use the same torch angle as you move you loose coverage on the start of your weld.
that's why you want one of those superflex torch leads if you don't already.... makes twisting while moving forward much easier.
Also, you can get a large gas lens without getting into those boutique lenses and use a #10 or #12 that are all shelf products (cheap). will really help with ~20-25cfh.
you can also get some scum in your welds if its not prepped well. (see above) I use a scotchbrite dressing disc to clean the pipe and then acetone wipe and then put on a clean set of welding gloves.
So I am moments away from order the AlphaTig but I have a few questions. Would the difference between the 2018 (new) version and the current version be enough to warrant waiting the 3 weeks for it to be available? Also, has anybody dealt with their customer support in the event of hardware failure as I have read that it's pretty bad.
My only plan is to weld aluminum intercooler parts, small things here and there for the car and in the long long future, an exhaust. If I can get away with with Eastwood 200 tig welder, I'll gladly purchase it and save a buck but if it's crap, i'll pony up the extra. Either way, I will be the limiting factor in terms of skills as this will be how I learn.
From what I understand, the difference between 2017 and 2018 models is the torch. The 2018 comes with a super flexible torch lead with a flex head torch handle. I haven't seen the 2017 torch, but the one that came with the 2018 model is really nice.
They don't advertise it, but the machines have hf start.
I'm not expecting anything spectacular, but they have some really good features for the price.
I'll report back when I get it and have a chance to run a few beads.
Edit: also, if you haven't purchased a simadre cut50 plasma cutter, you should before the price goes up more.
There is a new model now, and they probably won't be offered at $250 for much longer.
Mine has been going strong for over a year now, and I really like having it around.
I purchased the 2 year squaretrade warranty for that as well.
Lots of reasons. Aluminum can suck to weld especially cast. Metal might not be clean enough, or you might not have enough gas flow. You also need to use enough power to puddle the metal otherwise it will just fall apart. Try more gas and more pedal.
But first watch a bunch of welding tips and tricks videos on YouTube. Jody is a boss
Lots of reasons. Aluminum can suck to weld especially cast. Metal might not be clean enough, or you might not have enough gas flow. You also need to use enough power to puddle the metal otherwise it will just fall apart. Try more gas and more pedal.
But first watch a bunch of welding tips and tricks videos on YouTube. Jody is a boss
That white "corrosion" is the cleaning action used to break up the oxide layer - you can minimize it by keeping a tighter arc, scuffing with a wire brush before you lay a bead.
Cast aluminum impurities look like pepper flakes.
And something I learned pretty quick with aluminum - the torch angle needs a slight tilt to flow the gas over the filler rod, otherwise it will ball up as soon as it gets close to the puddle.
01-23-2018 | 06:18 PM
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