1.8 swap a lil twist
#24
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EDIT: also while cranking my "RPM not synced" goes away and "cranking" goes green but flickers along with other things like WUE.
#25
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@Braineack
Should I be using the 1.8 firing order? I'm not sure exactly how you wired it out of the MS
Should I be using the 1.8 firing order? I'm not sure exactly how you wired it out of the MS
#26
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your tune was still set to batch injection. have you fired you injection harness to seq.? if not and you're still using the oe injector harness, then that should be okay.
now that you're syncing, a normal datalog during cranking will help better to actually get it running.
now that you're syncing, a normal datalog during cranking will help better to actually get it running.
#27
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your tune was still set to batch injection. have you fired you injection harness to seq.? if not and you're still using the oe injector harness, then that should be okay.
now that you're syncing, a normal datalog during cranking will help better to actually get it running.
now that you're syncing, a normal datalog during cranking will help better to actually get it running.
Should I be using the 1.6 firing order with the plug wires?
EDIT: reread your post and didn't see that you said normal datalog, will take then re post
#29
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This is a screenshot of while it was cranking if that helps, how come there is no green "cranking" button over to the left? Cranking appears and then flashes ASE and WUE like it started then goes back to cranking
Last edited by btill115; 02-25-2018 at 06:47 PM.
#31
It appears you have sync of the ignition signals. A screenshot of the composite logger would be nice.
It is likely now something to do with connections of coils and injectors as you have alluded to before.
#32
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Are you still using the NA6 coil-packs? If so you need to follow the firing order for them. b6 and bp have the same firing order but the coils are reversed. Easy way to double check is to use the spark test mode and see which coil is coil A. Then just plug those leads onto cyl 1 & 4.
#33
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Cranking is not on likely because you have gone over the threshold rpm for cranking which is usually 300 rpm. You are at 336 in the screenshot.
It appears you have sync of the ignition signals. A screenshot of the composite logger would be nice.
It is likely now something to do with connections of coils and injectors as you have alluded to before.
It appears you have sync of the ignition signals. A screenshot of the composite logger would be nice.
It is likely now something to do with connections of coils and injectors as you have alluded to before.
All of my injector connections and coils connections are stock.
#34
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Hey so I just did a test to see if my spark plugs are firing!!! Only the first cylinders 1 and 2 are firing. When I test coil A its #1 and coil B is #2... what would cause this? Doesn't coil A fire 1 and 3 and B is 2 and 4??
EDIT: NVM! I lied, I don't know what I did wrong, maybe they moved some and didn't ground but either way they are all fire now and I remember now that it's 1-4 and 2-3. I was really hoping it was that and a simple fix
EDIT: NVM! I lied, I don't know what I did wrong, maybe they moved some and didn't ground but either way they are all fire now and I remember now that it's 1-4 and 2-3. I was really hoping it was that and a simple fix
Last edited by btill115; 02-26-2018 at 04:33 PM.
#38
Help us help you.
Datalog of an attempted start (screenshot be nice too) and another attachment with your most recent tune.
Composite log screenshot of attempted start.
A video of attempted start. In lieu of that, an extremely detailed description of the attempted start.
There are basic things an engine needs to start: compression, fuel, spark. Then there are somewhat advanced things: timing (ignition and spark), strength of spark/condition of plugs, vacuum leaks, etc. Then there are advanced things like what could be hiding in your tune such as starting parameters.
Datalog of an attempted start (screenshot be nice too) and another attachment with your most recent tune.
Composite log screenshot of attempted start.
A video of attempted start. In lieu of that, an extremely detailed description of the attempted start.
There are basic things an engine needs to start: compression, fuel, spark. Then there are somewhat advanced things: timing (ignition and spark), strength of spark/condition of plugs, vacuum leaks, etc. Then there are advanced things like what could be hiding in your tune such as starting parameters.
#39
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Help us help you.
Datalog of an attempted start (screenshot be nice too) and another attachment with your most recent tune.
Composite log screenshot of attempted start.
A video of attempted start. In lieu of that, an extremely detailed description of the attempted start.
There are basic things an engine needs to start: compression, fuel, spark. Then there are somewhat advanced things: timing (ignition and spark), strength of spark/condition of plugs, vacuum leaks, etc. Then there are advanced things like what could be hiding in your tune such as starting parameters.
Datalog of an attempted start (screenshot be nice too) and another attachment with your most recent tune.
Composite log screenshot of attempted start.
A video of attempted start. In lieu of that, an extremely detailed description of the attempted start.
There are basic things an engine needs to start: compression, fuel, spark. Then there are somewhat advanced things: timing (ignition and spark), strength of spark/condition of plugs, vacuum leaks, etc. Then there are advanced things like what could be hiding in your tune such as starting parameters.
#40
The attachments are fubar'd. Nothing but text for msl and msq.
You are getting injector pulse, and MAP is going down so the engine seems healthy enough mechanically.
Check the basics as far as compression and cam timing still. Since this is a swap, who knows what the previous owner did to the engine before you got it.
Take out plugs. Might be so wet from fuel that they won't start the car.
I can't say it will do much good but it can't hurt to raise cranking rpm to 500 since you are cranking in the 400 range. Raise cranking dwell to 7.5ms from the 6ms I saw in the screenshot in the first page.
Have you set ignition offset? It's at 5* on the screenshot on the first page?
You are getting injector pulse, and MAP is going down so the engine seems healthy enough mechanically.
Check the basics as far as compression and cam timing still. Since this is a swap, who knows what the previous owner did to the engine before you got it.
Take out plugs. Might be so wet from fuel that they won't start the car.
I can't say it will do much good but it can't hurt to raise cranking rpm to 500 since you are cranking in the 400 range. Raise cranking dwell to 7.5ms from the 6ms I saw in the screenshot in the first page.
Have you set ignition offset? It's at 5* on the screenshot on the first page?