When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If this were aircraft, the part would be timed out much sooner.
Exactly my thoughts - There's only one component with infinite life on commercial aircraft (the landing gear) which is part of why I enjoy screwing around with cars - there's almost nothing that needs to be timed-out. If it works it works.
Hubs and ball joints definitely fall outside that territory. What items aside from those need to be replaced regularly and at how many hours? Should we have a sticky for things to be serviced every season?
I'm not sure if this is recent or already common knowledge, I didn't see it mentioned in this thread but for the people who buy OEM hubs, it seems that mazdacomp sells them preinstalled with the correct ARP studs(lists the ARP part number). The difference in price is a few bucks more than buying the studs seperately.
I'm not sure if this is recent or already common knowledge, I didn't see it mentioned in this thread but for the people who buy OEM hubs, it seems that mazdacomp sells them preinstalled with the correct ARP studs(lists the ARP part number). The difference in price is a few bucks more than buying the studs seperately.
Welp, these are backordered. Hoping to get new stuff in before my track day but it may not happen.
I managed to find a set from a guy in Vancouver that is selling his STS autocross Miata and buying an FRS (which, apparently, has a classing advantage). They look really nice:
Being installed today. Also have a set of the Mazdaspeed blueprinted front hubs/bearings, which I'll keep as spares for when my current ones wear out.
If I use standard interference fit clearances, such as you listed, then even the stock studs are the wrong size on the Dorman hubs. I'm not a design engineer or machinist and have found nothing online about clearances for interference fit joints with knurling. Hopefully we can come up with a cheaper solution than buying OE replacements from Mazda. I can buy a stack of Dorman hubs and get them reamed at the machine shop for less than 1 OE part.
Knurling helps prevent rotation, but it also lessons the precision needed vs a true press fit tremendously. Not sure reaming is even required if one is truly shooting for 0.005 - 0.008 interference range.
Can anyone find ARP pre-loaded rear hubs on the Mazda parts site? I'm hoping I'm just being incredibly dull, because the non Mazda options look pretty ****.
Can anyone find ARP pre-loaded rear hubs on the Mazda parts site? I'm hoping I'm just being incredibly dull, because the non Mazda options look pretty ****.
Can anyone find ARP pre-loaded rear hubs on the Mazda parts site? I'm hoping I'm just being incredibly dull, because the non Mazda options look pretty ****.
e: Plane ole regular stud rear hubs are $95 now.
Comp rears w/ ARPs are 0000-04-5HUB-RR. OEM rear hubs have always been in the $90ish range as long as I can remember (5 years or so). I normally buy normal ones and press my own ARPs, but 100-7720 ARPs were scarce this winter and Comp had 4x preloaded hubs in stock.
Miatahubs also has rear hubs now, which is what I have in my car. My early SadFab hubs chewed up their bearings in about 150 miles, I guess some sort of problem with the early versions. I'm guessing they've resolved it by now or you'd hear more about it.