Where to remove weight from a track only car?
#383
I don't know yet for sure as I've not subjected it to any serious (on-track) temps, but that was certainly something I considered. The underside of the trans tunnel is completely covered in heat shielding to try keep interior temps down - hopefully that is sufficient so as to not melt the ABS, which should be ok up to about 60-80 degrees C.
#391
Not that anyone asked, but on our race cars we usually use the OEM routing for the evap can overflow as our final VTD. OEM overflow dumps into the subframe behind the RF wheel. Our rationale is thus:
A: Far as possible from exhaust
B: Far from rear tires
C: Far enough forward to be properly atomized before it exists the rear of the car. No black flag
D: Driver will get a whiff and know there is a problem
We purpose the lines and just delete the evap can.
A: Far as possible from exhaust
B: Far from rear tires
C: Far enough forward to be properly atomized before it exists the rear of the car. No black flag
D: Driver will get a whiff and know there is a problem
We purpose the lines and just delete the evap can.
__________________
#393
Not that anyone asked, but on our race cars we usually use the OEM routing for the evap can overflow as our final VTD. OEM overflow dumps into the subframe behind the RF wheel. Our rationale is thus:
A: Far as possible from exhaust
B: Far from rear tires
C: Far enough forward to be properly atomized before it exists the rear of the car. No black flag
D: Driver will get a whiff and know there is a problem
We purpose the lines and just delete the evap can.
A: Far as possible from exhaust
B: Far from rear tires
C: Far enough forward to be properly atomized before it exists the rear of the car. No black flag
D: Driver will get a whiff and know there is a problem
We purpose the lines and just delete the evap can.
My Lexan windshield would appreciate it if everyone did something like that instead of just letting it spew out of the rear like a geyser.
#394
I have been thinking about removing the gas tank and entire parcel shelf and replace the floor with a flat aluminum sheet similar to Bubbles Bubbles Stripped Bubbles Finished.
The upside is it helps with the L/R balance (I am not light, bw: 230-250 on avg).
The only down side to this is I mount ballast in the seat mounts currently to make weight for PTD/ST5.
What is the consensus on putting fuel cell where the seat is, battery (odyssey battery pc680) in front of the cell, and the 5L fire system in and any ballast in the pax footwell?
The Ballast is throwing me off but I guess I can replace ballast plates with fuel?
The upside is it helps with the L/R balance (I am not light, bw: 230-250 on avg).
The only down side to this is I mount ballast in the seat mounts currently to make weight for PTD/ST5.
What is the consensus on putting fuel cell where the seat is, battery (odyssey battery pc680) in front of the cell, and the 5L fire system in and any ballast in the pax footwell?
The Ballast is throwing me off but I guess I can replace ballast plates with fuel?
#395
Unless you're doing a really small fuel cell it's not worth it IMO. The stock miata gas tank is actually pretty damn light. If you're doing something like a 5 gallon you could lose some weight.
Nvm, failed at reading and that you wanted to cut out the whole thing, that'd drop decent weight. I dropped about 19lb out of the seat belt towers, rear shelf, and seat brackets this winter. Cutting the tank surround as well would yield some decent savings
Nvm, failed at reading and that you wanted to cut out the whole thing, that'd drop decent weight. I dropped about 19lb out of the seat belt towers, rear shelf, and seat brackets this winter. Cutting the tank surround as well would yield some decent savings
#397
If that battery holder is ABS, you'll be fine. Glassification temp is 110C for most filaments, melting temp is much higher (~230C). I've got PETG parts in my bay (glass temp 85C) sitting on top of my radiator and I've had no warping, even with an hour stop and go commute daily. Drop down to PLA and you might start having issues (glass temp 60C). I'm an advocate of printed parts for anything but structural members. Start moving into more exotic filaments like nylons and you've got surprisingly strong parts with temp resistance on par with ABS, chemical and UV resistance. omgpham is using nylon for ITB stacks, and a number of other parts. plastic printed parts will never replace everything, but they're a great lightweight choice if you've got access.
#399
Gasoline fumes kill baby seals.....or so they say. The evap cannister contains charcoal that absorbs the fumes. There's a purge selonoid that opens a vac line to suck the gas vapors out of the charcoal and into the motor. Only downside to removing it is you'll get a gasoline smell from time to time.
#400
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,012
Total Cats: 859
Not that anyone asked, but on our race cars we usually use the OEM routing for the evap can overflow as our final VTD. OEM overflow dumps into the subframe behind the RF wheel. Our rationale is thus:
A: Far as possible from exhaust
B: Far from rear tires
C: Far enough forward to be properly atomized before it exists the rear of the car. No black flag
D: Driver will get a whiff and know there is a problem
We purpose the lines and just delete the evap can.
A: Far as possible from exhaust
B: Far from rear tires
C: Far enough forward to be properly atomized before it exists the rear of the car. No black flag
D: Driver will get a whiff and know there is a problem
We purpose the lines and just delete the evap can.
Here is the picture:
Diagram and bypass picture shown
Then, do not over-fill the tank, because if the fill tube gets totally full, fuel will run down the vent tube. Stopping on a first click is no problem.