EFR6258, 1884cc BP6D, 415whp/343wtq
#1
TheCarPassionChannel
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 188
Total Cats: 136
EFR6258, 1884cc BP6D, 415whp/343wtq
Hello feline friends, I have come to share the results of my build.
Block:
CA91 pull was 16.4psi on initial spool-up, 17.8psi by redline. Open loop boost control still needs a little work, did not want to do repeated pulls just to nail in +/- 1psi here and there when I knew it would need to be tweaked for street loads (vs. Dynojet loads) anyways. May switch to closed loop although I don't feel like I'm missing out on much transient response yet. Once I learn how to read flight plans and use my radar for low visibility conditions at low altitudes, I can work on it.
E85 pull was 20psi at initial spoolup, 21psi by redline. Again, an issue of just needing a bit more tuning, the boost control has been amazing with the dual port IWGA.
Only disappointment for the day was that VVT was not coming on until 3400-3500, so I don't know what I was missing in spoolup before then. Maybe between the 0 shims pump, turbo feed off the VVT line, and 5w30, just not enough pressure until that RPM. I plan on going to a 10w40 and seeing if the spool-up curve improves at all below 3500, but I feel 200wtq @ 3100 isn't going to get a whole lot better. Testing will tell.
The car is STUPID fast, 300wtq @ 3800 is ridiculous. I wanted a very fast spooling setup and a fat torque curve in the stock rev range, and I got what I wanted. I plan on running it at the 330-350whp level just so I can be a little more confident in my 6-speed, and because my old weathered 225 NT01's don't hook up until 4th gear at full power anyways. Boost-By-TPS% has made it very drivable, especially with the Skunk2 TB being larger in diameter over stock. And for all you Dynojet skeptics, Sav said my numbers pass his dyno BS test and actually closely resemble his Dyapack numbers as far as torque:kpa. So take that!
Hit me with any questions, comments, or concerns.
Here's my standard goofy video with dyno pulls and driving for the first time, as well as some more dyno comparisons. Little Car, Big Numbers. The VVT Turbo Miata Hits The Dyno! (Rebirth Ep45 ? Finale) ? The Car Passion Channel
Block:
- Version: BP6D (01-05)
- Main Bearings: ACL Race
- Main Studs: ARP
- Oil Pump: Boundary Engineering Stage II (No Shims)
- Harmonic Balancer: ATI Super Damper
- Trigger Wheel: FAB9 Tuning 36-2
- Connecting Rods: Manley Performance
- Rod Bearings: King Race
- Pistons: Supertech 84mm (9:1 Compression)
- Piston Rings: Wiseco XX
- Version: BP6D
- Cams: Stock
- Cam Gears: Stock
- Lifters: Stock
- Valve Springs: Volvo VS-855
- Valves: SI Stainless Back-Cut, Standard Size
- Portwork: “Stage 1” Mild Bowl Blending/Casting Cleanup
- Head Studs: ARP
- Head Gasket: Cometic MLS 84mm, Standard Thickness
- Manifold: Skunk 2 Racing
- Throttle Body: Skunk 2 Racing
- Intercooler: Fab9 Tuning 350HP
- Intercooler Piping: DIY
- BOV: Borg Warner Recirc
- Exhaust Manifold: Artech Fabrication Bottom-Mount
- Turbo: Borg Warner EFR6258 IWG 0.64 A/R T25
- Wastegate Actuator: Turbosmart Dual Port (7psi spring)
- Downpipe: Artech Fabrication 3.0″ V-Band
- Exhaust: Artech Fabrication 3.0″ Dual Exit w/ Cutout
- Fuel Rail: Radium Engineering
- FPR: Fuelab 515 (Base 60psi)
- Fuel Injectors: Injector Dynamics ID1000
- Fuel Pump: Five-O Motorsports 340LPH
- ECU: MSPnPPro 90-93
- Boost Control: MAC 4-port EBC Solenoid Controlled by MS
- Ignition: D585 Coils
- GM Flex Sensor for 91/E85 blending
- Clutch: Clutchmasters FX725 Twin Disc (10.4lbs)
- Flywheel: Clutchmasters FX725 (6.4lbs)
- Transmission: NB1 6-Speed
- Diff: 3.909 Torsen
CA91 pull was 16.4psi on initial spool-up, 17.8psi by redline. Open loop boost control still needs a little work, did not want to do repeated pulls just to nail in +/- 1psi here and there when I knew it would need to be tweaked for street loads (vs. Dynojet loads) anyways. May switch to closed loop although I don't feel like I'm missing out on much transient response yet. Once I learn how to read flight plans and use my radar for low visibility conditions at low altitudes, I can work on it.
E85 pull was 20psi at initial spoolup, 21psi by redline. Again, an issue of just needing a bit more tuning, the boost control has been amazing with the dual port IWGA.
Only disappointment for the day was that VVT was not coming on until 3400-3500, so I don't know what I was missing in spoolup before then. Maybe between the 0 shims pump, turbo feed off the VVT line, and 5w30, just not enough pressure until that RPM. I plan on going to a 10w40 and seeing if the spool-up curve improves at all below 3500, but I feel 200wtq @ 3100 isn't going to get a whole lot better. Testing will tell.
The car is STUPID fast, 300wtq @ 3800 is ridiculous. I wanted a very fast spooling setup and a fat torque curve in the stock rev range, and I got what I wanted. I plan on running it at the 330-350whp level just so I can be a little more confident in my 6-speed, and because my old weathered 225 NT01's don't hook up until 4th gear at full power anyways. Boost-By-TPS% has made it very drivable, especially with the Skunk2 TB being larger in diameter over stock. And for all you Dynojet skeptics, Sav said my numbers pass his dyno BS test and actually closely resemble his Dyapack numbers as far as torque:kpa. So take that!
Hit me with any questions, comments, or concerns.
Here's my standard goofy video with dyno pulls and driving for the first time, as well as some more dyno comparisons. Little Car, Big Numbers. The VVT Turbo Miata Hits The Dyno! (Rebirth Ep45 ? Finale) ? The Car Passion Channel
#2
1) you'll want closed loop boost when the weather/temp causes your boost to swing pretty hard. though with a built engine and e85 it probably won't matter much. no reason not to use it though, you certainly have a capable ecu for it.
2) plot looks fine for that setup. don't think it will make much more though.
3) you can probably pick up a little more lowend with earlier vvt advance, but I don't think it will be drastic. really weird problem though. so you're triggering it much earlier but it only hits target much later?
#3
TheCarPassionChannel
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
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1) you'll want closed loop boost when the weather/temp causes your boost to swing pretty hard. though with a built engine and e85 it probably won't matter much. no reason not to use it though, you certainly have a capable ecu for it.
2) plot looks fine for that setup. don't think it will make much more though.
3) you can probably pick up a little more lowend with earlier vvt advance, but I don't think it will be drastic. really weird problem though. so you're triggering it much earlier but it only hits target much later?
2) Can't argue that, I can't really see wanting any more, at least until I have a BMW trans in it.
3) Yes, it's at full DC and VVT angle remains 0 relative until 3400ish, despite commanding higher values.
#5
TheCarPassionChannel
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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Fun street car (daily driver), autocross/canyon, occasional (casual) drag racing or HDPE. Will likely be turned down quite a bit for any sort of track use other than drag racing. If you're just looking for timing numbers in boost, it's around 18 degrees taper to 20 degrees at redline at 21psi.
#8
Boost Czar
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you can target it at 100rpm, but it's only going to move when it has the OP to move. I believe early vvt tuners were having issues trying to advance too early when there was insufficient oil pressure and it was causing a herky-jerky affect. (see hustler's old thread)
#9
Data point of one here, but I was having problems with my VVT tune that turned out to be caused by calibrating the min/max duty before my oil had really got up to temp. It would work at startup, then drift away as I drove & the oil viscosity changed. Recalibrating min/max after a spirited drive fixed it.
#10
TheCarPassionChannel
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 188
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Data point of one here, but I was having problems with my VVT tune that turned out to be caused by calibrating the min/max duty before my oil had really got up to temp. It would work at startup, then drift away as I drove & the oil viscosity changed. Recalibrating min/max after a spirited drive fixed it.
#13
It's certainly possible, though IMO not very likely. The normal way basically draws it from the same actuator, just earlier in the plumbing right when it comes from block. You can easily test this with a cheapie feed line and Tee from the normal location. I doubt that's it though
You got a picture of your current setup? I'm too old for facebook or wherever else you house your pics
You got a picture of your current setup? I'm too old for facebook or wherever else you house your pics
#14
TheCarPassionChannel
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 188
Total Cats: 136
It's certainly possible, though IMO not very likely. The normal way basically draws it from the same actuator, just earlier in the plumbing right when it comes from block. You can easily test this with a cheapie feed line and Tee from the normal location. I doubt that's it though
You got a picture of your current setup? I'm too old for facebook or wherever else you house your pics
You got a picture of your current setup? I'm too old for facebook or wherever else you house your pics
#19
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Using 5w 30 I'm surprised the damn thing moves at all. Are you shopping for oil in the ladies department of the auto parts store?
I really think that making 400 horsepower on 5 hw30 is rather cavalier, too. You're putting a lot of faith in some really thin film strength.
I really think that making 400 horsepower on 5 hw30 is rather cavalier, too. You're putting a lot of faith in some really thin film strength.