3d printed intake for N/A NA miatas
#521
If anyone doesn't want to cut into their MAF wiring, I found a extension on amazon that should fit with 1.8 NA for $19.99.
Toyota MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor Extension Harness - 24" Denso 5 wire pin | eBay
Originally found from miata.net:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=634036
I'm going to order from amazon since I have a prime membership, and will report back on fitment once I receive it!
Toyota MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor Extension Harness - 24" Denso 5 wire pin | eBay
Originally found from miata.net:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=634036
I'm going to order from amazon since I have a prime membership, and will report back on fitment once I receive it!
#522
If anyone doesn't want to cut into their MAF wiring, I found a extension on amazon that should fit with 1.8 NA for $19.99.
Originally found from miata.net:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=634036
I'm going to order from amazon since I have a prime membership, and will report back on fitment once I receive it!
Originally found from miata.net:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=634036
I'm going to order from amazon since I have a prime membership, and will report back on fitment once I receive it!
#523
Edit: nvm, I got it close down. I have a radiator panel that I removed to get this to fit.
Last edited by kollunz; 08-07-2017 at 10:17 PM.
#524
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lakewood (Green Mountain) CO.
Posts: 250
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I would recommend you recent builders tape the entire exterior of the thing with some sort of heat tape. Not only will this help it reflect the heat from that radiator, but it reduces the likelihood of a crack occurring, and if it does, your intake is still airtight. Mine cracked almost instantly and I ran it for another year or so held together with HVAC tape.
#526
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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What was the error? What were you trying to do? Which file did you download?
If you downloaded the STL file it's not something you can open in a CAD program and edit, it's a file used to print the intake.
If you downloaded the STL file it's not something you can open in a CAD program and edit, it's a file used to print the intake.
#530
did you get your intake - can you send some pics
dis
For those that are wanting to do this and retain MAF and IACV check this out:
did you already get your 3D intake? I would like to see it and also ask you where i can go to get one made. Thanks.
3/4" Hose Through Hull Fitting - Straight Through Discharge
and
Through Hull Jet Ski Water Bypass Fitting Bilge 3/8 - Straight Thru eBay
did you already get your 3D intake? I would like to see it and also ask you where i can go to get one made. Thanks.
3/4" Hose Through Hull Fitting - Straight Through Discharge
and
Through Hull Jet Ski Water Bypass Fitting Bilge 3/8 - Straight Thru eBay
#534
My air filter fell off somewhere between Indianapolis and Gingerman Raceway in Southhaven Michigan. I had a Chumpcar race there in the Mustang but drove the Miata and met the team. I opened the hood in the paddock to show someone the intake and the damn filter was gone. I grabbed a sock filter out of the race trailer and zip tied it on there to get home.
The design needs a ridge to prevent the filter from falling off. It is nearly impossible to get up in there to tighten it down.
The design needs a ridge to prevent the filter from falling off. It is nearly impossible to get up in there to tighten it down.
#535
My air filter fell off somewhere between Indianapolis and Gingerman Raceway in Southhaven Michigan. I had a Chumpcar race there in the Mustang but drove the Miata and met the team. I opened the hood in the paddock to show someone the intake and the damn filter was gone. I grabbed a sock filter out of the race trailer and zip tied it on there to get home.
The design needs a ridge to prevent the filter from falling off. It is nearly impossible to get up in there to tighten it down.
The design needs a ridge to prevent the filter from falling off. It is nearly impossible to get up in there to tighten it down.
#537
Here’s mine:
ordered through makexyz. I think infill was 15% or something slightly above the default. used the silicone intakes hose adapter, i think a reducer from 1/2” to 3/8 npt then the right angle adapter for the IAC hose. Used leftover 2.5” piping between the 2.75” couplers so i need to get the correct size.
unfortunately i got too excited and threw it on without acetone vapor treatment or anything of the like. Over time it has losts its shape and pancaked further, reducing air flow and ive had to make small edits to my tune accordingly. it has deformed especially due to the shape of the hood right above the intake and obviously the hot temperatures. Also it keeps shrinking where i clamp the filter (and the silicone coupler) so my filter keeps falling off too. I lost one already, the second one ive had ziptied to the chassis so that i dont lose it when it falls off. I’ve gotten used to reaching up in there with a short 1/4”drive flex head ratchet and a deep 8mm, you just install the filter/clamp in a location that works for you.
when i first installed it tho, the car ran noticeably better especially after dialing in the tune further. It allowed my VE cells to be more consistent and linear and my AFR’s were more linear as well, in comparison to a DIY racing beat style intake. It felt better low end in response and more consistent up top. But performance has minimally been diminishing as it shrinks, i can tell.
plan is to get another one made A$AP but im having trouble sourcing someone who will make it and vapor polish it. I dont really want to do it myself, the printer OP used never got back to me on several attempts. so if anyone has a lead on vapor polishing or heat treating it im open to suggestions. Otherwise i might tackle it myself, i want to get a new one on by the end of the year.
Pic of it now, in comparison to when it was freshly installed in the above pic.
ordered through makexyz. I think infill was 15% or something slightly above the default. used the silicone intakes hose adapter, i think a reducer from 1/2” to 3/8 npt then the right angle adapter for the IAC hose. Used leftover 2.5” piping between the 2.75” couplers so i need to get the correct size.
unfortunately i got too excited and threw it on without acetone vapor treatment or anything of the like. Over time it has losts its shape and pancaked further, reducing air flow and ive had to make small edits to my tune accordingly. it has deformed especially due to the shape of the hood right above the intake and obviously the hot temperatures. Also it keeps shrinking where i clamp the filter (and the silicone coupler) so my filter keeps falling off too. I lost one already, the second one ive had ziptied to the chassis so that i dont lose it when it falls off. I’ve gotten used to reaching up in there with a short 1/4”drive flex head ratchet and a deep 8mm, you just install the filter/clamp in a location that works for you.
when i first installed it tho, the car ran noticeably better especially after dialing in the tune further. It allowed my VE cells to be more consistent and linear and my AFR’s were more linear as well, in comparison to a DIY racing beat style intake. It felt better low end in response and more consistent up top. But performance has minimally been diminishing as it shrinks, i can tell.
plan is to get another one made A$AP but im having trouble sourcing someone who will make it and vapor polish it. I dont really want to do it myself, the printer OP used never got back to me on several attempts. so if anyone has a lead on vapor polishing or heat treating it im open to suggestions. Otherwise i might tackle it myself, i want to get a new one on by the end of the year.
Pic of it now, in comparison to when it was freshly installed in the above pic.
#540
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I bought a large coreXY printer at xmas and I'm working on converting it to print straight polycarbonate. Even with a thin wall (1.2mm) polycarbonate ought to be strong enough for end use. Also the TG is 150c which is as better than most room temp cure epoxy resins. Being able to have a strong enough part with thin walls will also make doing the 2016 redesign feasible so they will flow better than the existing 3d printed versions.
Once I have it printing the intakes in PC reliably i'll just crank them out about one a day.
Once I have it printing the intakes in PC reliably i'll just crank them out about one a day.