Buying a 99 W/BRP MP62 SC Non-IC 8lb boost, any warning signs?
#43
I'd also like to add... if you don't have the knowledge or mechanical aptitude to "build" the systems that are on the project car (read: 9/10 times, some one elses nightmare) then you shouldn't be buying a car with those systems. While the miata is generally simple and is essentially built on late 90's technology... they become less simple when going off the normally aspirated path. You really need to get a non-boosted car, and learn the chassis, motor and electronics and then add power later. If you don't do this, you stand a chance of A) buying a headache B) replacing a motor in the first 12 months of ownership or C) ending up with a car on jackstands you don't drive.
Regarding buying a car and shipping it... you're essentially doing that right now. You sight wanting to see the car yourself, but it doesn't seem like you know the chassis enough to know what you're looking at (experience in general). You're taking photos from the buyer, posting them here asking questions and then making a decision. The only difference between doing that 2000 miles away from you instead of 20 or 200... is the one way plane ticket and the great stories that driving a car back across the country create. There is nothing wrong with what you're doing, honestly as long as you have thick skin, you're doing it on the right website. However, don't be confused that there is no difference in buying across the country then what you're doing now.
Do 6 more months of research on the car (NOT 6 MONTHS OF RESEARCH LOOKING FOR THE RIGHT CAR!!!) and do this once, do it right. You have the right budget to get either a decent stock car and a whole heap load of parts, or a really well sorted already built car. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON SOME ONE ELSE'S DISASTER!!!
Regarding buying a car and shipping it... you're essentially doing that right now. You sight wanting to see the car yourself, but it doesn't seem like you know the chassis enough to know what you're looking at (experience in general). You're taking photos from the buyer, posting them here asking questions and then making a decision. The only difference between doing that 2000 miles away from you instead of 20 or 200... is the one way plane ticket and the great stories that driving a car back across the country create. There is nothing wrong with what you're doing, honestly as long as you have thick skin, you're doing it on the right website. However, don't be confused that there is no difference in buying across the country then what you're doing now.
Do 6 more months of research on the car (NOT 6 MONTHS OF RESEARCH LOOKING FOR THE RIGHT CAR!!!) and do this once, do it right. You have the right budget to get either a decent stock car and a whole heap load of parts, or a really well sorted already built car. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON SOME ONE ELSE'S DISASTER!!!
#44
By the way, for the purpose of due dilligence, is there anh way to determine if the SC is one of the older BRP models or one of the new MOSS ones just by looking at it? If so, here's a pic of the engine bay. Can anyone tell if this is an older or newer model? Would help in order to determine exactly which SC I would want on a future car.
P. S. - I also have a Dropbox link here to a video of the guy driving it, so maybe it could help identifying it by hearing the way it sounds
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k931lp656z...58568.3gp?dl=0
P. S. - I also have a Dropbox link here to a video of the guy driving it, so maybe it could help identifying it by hearing the way it sounds
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k931lp656z...58568.3gp?dl=0
#45
I would value the car as the sum of the parts plus what's needed to make it right. At first glance it needs IC, dual throttle bodies (option?), injectors and ECU.Then there is tuning. All this assumes the shell is good and rust free. Those rockers and front frame rails will tell you what you need to know. Pay $100-$200 to have a competent mechanic look at it on a life and probe with screwdriver.
I would not not worry too much about the motor. Quick compression/leakdown will tell you all you need to know.
Look in the classifieds for deals on injectors and ECU's. I would try and stay new on both. Most prefer MS3 and Injector Dynamics injectors.
I would not not worry too much about the motor. Quick compression/leakdown will tell you all you need to know.
Look in the classifieds for deals on injectors and ECU's. I would try and stay new on both. Most prefer MS3 and Injector Dynamics injectors.
#46
Great info, thanks for all of that. I am most certainly going to continue to learn and hope to buy the right car the first time around.
Hypothetically speaking, if I were to buy this car (after compression test & rust check of course), would I be able to get by with just adding an intercooler and adding the Jackson Racing Supercard that handles timing and have it be a safe and reliable daily driver? Where might I find some good info on how to properly do a compression/leakdown test?
I understand that the Supercards are not the ideal tuning solution and that I can do better, but I would likely be more than happy sacrificing a bit of power for the ease of use. I would likely prefer not to get in too deep with all the tuning and adjusting required with a more "advanced" setup. With that in mind, could I get by with such a setup and have it be reliable? How hard is it to locate one of those JR Timing Supercards these days?
Hypothetically speaking, if I were to buy this car (after compression test & rust check of course), would I be able to get by with just adding an intercooler and adding the Jackson Racing Supercard that handles timing and have it be a safe and reliable daily driver? Where might I find some good info on how to properly do a compression/leakdown test?
I understand that the Supercards are not the ideal tuning solution and that I can do better, but I would likely be more than happy sacrificing a bit of power for the ease of use. I would likely prefer not to get in too deep with all the tuning and adjusting required with a more "advanced" setup. With that in mind, could I get by with such a setup and have it be reliable? How hard is it to locate one of those JR Timing Supercards these days?
#47
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Where might I find some good info on how to properly do a compression/leakdown test?
Just buy the car. You are obviously irrational in your infatuation for the particular unit. There's no point in bothering us with questions when you've already decided.
There's a couple of different ways to retard the timing using aftermarket interfaces that offer very coarse adjustments. None will be the proper way but none of this is the proper way.
#49
If you *really* must buy a pre-modified miata, please just buy this one: https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto...323321363.html
Its got a decent setup, it at least comes already megasquirted and has a true wide-band sensor, and will give a solid foundation moving forward. And its local to you. Most importantly, its not the total POS you came here wanting affirmation on.
Its got a decent setup, it at least comes already megasquirted and has a true wide-band sensor, and will give a solid foundation moving forward. And its local to you. Most importantly, its not the total POS you came here wanting affirmation on.
#50
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Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 21,053
Total Cats: 3,128
If you *really* must buy a pre-modified miata, please just buy this one: https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto...323321363.html
Its got a decent setup, it at least comes already megasquirted and has a true wide-band sensor, and will give a solid foundation moving forward. And its local to you. Most importantly, its not the total POS you came here wanting affirmation on.
Its got a decent setup, it at least comes already megasquirted and has a true wide-band sensor, and will give a solid foundation moving forward. And its local to you. Most importantly, its not the total POS you came here wanting affirmation on.
#51
These old kits aren't something that we attach additional value to a car for. If anything, i'd value a car less with one of these old setups. High chance of motor damage, and if i'm spending the money i'd get by selling the supercharger to replace a shot motor, i'd just as soon buy a non-supercharged one to begin with, and add supercharger later if i desired. Seems easier, and a guarantee that it would be done right.
Point is, buying a pre-modified vehicle is not usually a good idea in general, and even when it is a reasonable idea, the presence of aftermarket FI parts just makes it a more risky investment, which decreases the overall value.
#52
If you *really* must buy a pre-modified miata, please just buy this one: https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto...323321363.html
Its got a decent setup, it at least comes already megasquirted and has a true wide-band sensor, and will give a solid foundation moving forward. And its local to you. Most importantly, its not the total POS you came here wanting affirmation on.
Its got a decent setup, it at least comes already megasquirted and has a true wide-band sensor, and will give a solid foundation moving forward. And its local to you. Most importantly, its not the total POS you came here wanting affirmation on.
Last edited by k24madness; 11-05-2017 at 07:16 AM.